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Pricing

1. Background

Understanding pigment labels is crucial for every Powder Brows, and hairstrokes artist, but often, the information they offer can be limited. This article is informed by insights from 21 top pigmentation artists who excel in lip and eyeliner pigmentation. With most based in the U.S. and others in EU countries and the UK, it's interesting to note that their geographical location doesn't significantly affect their interpretation of pigment labels. This consistency is likely due to the universal recognition of most chemical components used in these pigments.

Navigating Limited Information

Pigment manufacturers typically provide just enough information to meet technical and regulatory requirements, often adhering to a policy of minimal disclosure. This approach means that while labels carry important details, they might not reveal extensive information about the pigment's composition or the manufacturer's techniques. As an artist, understanding this reality is key. Expecting to uncover in-depth secrets or extensive data from the color codes or additives listed on the label might lead to unrealistic expectations. Instead, focusing on the essential information provided and how it applies to your practice is more beneficial.

2. Technical requirements

Technical Requirements in the EU

In the European Union, the regulation of pigments used for cosmetic applications like Powder Brows falls under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products. This regulation mandates a comprehensive safety assessment for all pigments before being marketed. Every component, including colorants, must be listed with their Color Index (CI) numbers. The concentration of heavy metals such as lead, mercury, and arsenic is closely monitored to ensure they remain within permissible limits.

The EU also enforces a strict ban on animal testing for cosmetic products. The traceability of each product batch is vital for effective recall processes and safety concerns. Furthermore, manufacturers and importers need to follow the REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals) regulations, which protect human health and the environment by managing the risks associated with chemical substances.

Technical Requirements in the US

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) oversees pigment regulation for cosmetics under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act in the United States. The FDA's approach requires pre-market approval for some color additives, with each batch undergoing tests for impurities. The labeling of pigments must comprehensively cover all ingredients and potential allergens. The FDA also plays a role in certifying color additives, ensuring they meet safety and quality standards. Manufacturers are expected to adhere to Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices (CGMP) to guarantee the safety and quality of the pigments.

Animal Testing in Pigment Manufacturing

The claim that pigments are "not tested on animals" often emerges in the cosmetics industry, including in the field of semi-permanent makeup pigments. Professional artists must understand the context behind such claims, which may not always stem from ethical considerations by the manufacturer. In many instances, the lack of animal testing is due to the extensive pre-existing data on the safety of the colorants and additives used in these pigments.

A notable example is Carbon Black (CI 77266). This substance has undergone multiple animal tests over time, demonstrating its skin safety and minimal irritation potential. In some historical tests, substances were applied to the shaved skin of New Zealand rabbits – ironically, the same animals often depicted in "cruelty-free" product advertisements. In these tests, patches containing the substance were placed on the rabbits' skin for 24 hours, and the substance was also introduced into their eyes to assess irritation levels. While these tests were relatively mild compared to other forms of animal testing in various industries, they highlight the real basis behind certain "cruelty-free" claims.

Therefore, when encountering claims about ethical choices regarding animal testing in pigment production, it's essential to consider the broader context. Often, these claims are more about the minimal need for additional testing due to the well-established safety profiles of the mixed substances rather than purely ethical decisions made by the company. Understanding this distinction is vital for any professional artist who aims to be well-informed and transparent about the products they use in their practice.

3. Understanding labels

Practical Pigment Label Interpretation

Understanding pigment labels in the context of semi-permanent makeup requires a realistic approach. Labels typically display information that manufacturers are obligated to share under regulatory standards. It's important to remember that while labels provide essential details, they often represent the minimum required by law. This means that the depth of information available to you, the artist, is limited to what the manufacturer chooses to disclose.

For professional artists, this implies that while labels are a useful starting point, they don't offer exhaustive insights into the pigment's composition, safety, or potential health implications. Reputable companies must comply with legal requirements regarding ingredient testing and safety. Therefore, you can generally trust that the components listed have been subjected to the necessary evaluations.

However, artists should not rely solely on label information to comprehensively understand the product. Labels won't typically reveal advanced details about the pigment's formulation or specific health risks unless explicitly required by regulations. This scenario underscores the importance of sourcing pigments from reputable manufacturers that are committed to quality and safety.

4. Sales and marketing tactics

Marketing Considerations in Pigment Production

When choosing pigments for semi-permanent makeup, understanding the marketing strategies of pigment manufacturers is crucial. These strategies often highlight certain aspects of their products, particularly regarding the composition of the pigments.

Iron Oxides in Marketing

Classification and Labeling. Some pigment makers use Iron oxides like CI 77491 (Red Iron Oxide), CI 77492 (Yellow Iron Oxide), and CI 77499 (Black Iron Oxide) in their products. They often market these pigments as "free from heavy metals," leveraging the fact that iron, despite sometimes being classified as a heavy metal, is not considered hazardous like lead, mercury, cadmium, or chromium.

Promotional Tacticś

Manufacturers of iron oxide pigments often emphasize the safety and purity of their products. They might use terms like "officially certified" and promote their pigments as being made from "carefully chosen, separated particles of synthetically processed, refined, and purified Iron oxide.”

The Reality Behind Marketing Claims

Operational Boundaries. Manufacturers tend to operate within legal boundaries while presenting their products in the most favorable light. This means that while they are truthful in their claims, they might emphasize certain aspects over others to make their products appear more appealing.

Iron Oxides and Heavy Metals

By choosing a specific definition of 'heavy metals,' makers of iron oxide pigments can legitimately claim their products are free from heavy metals, as the definition they adopt excludes iron.

Implications for Artists

For artists starting in the field of semi-permanent makeup, these marketing strategies imply the need for a discerning approach when selecting pigments:

Understand Marketing Language. Recognize that marketing language is designed to highlight the positives and may not always provide a full picture of the product.
Evaluate Claims Critically. Assess the claims critically, understanding the context and the definitions used by manufacturers.
Focus on Safety and Quality. Prioritize the safety and quality of pigments, ensuring they comply with health standards and are suitable for your specific applications.

Iron Oxides and Carbon: Safety Considerations

Dermatologists confirm that pigments containing iron oxides are generally as safe as those with carbon black colorants, provided they are formulated correctly. Iron oxides and carbon black have undergone extensive safety evaluations and are widely recognized as non-toxic and inert when used in pigments. Iron oxides are often synthetically made to ensure purity, eliminating harmful impurities like heavy metals. Similarly, when processed and purified correctly, carbon black pigments pose a low risk of allergic reactions or toxicity. The safety of these pigments largely depends on the quality of their manufacturing process and the absence of hazardous additives or contaminants.

Magnetic Properties of Pigments

The magnetic properties of some semi-permanent makeup pigments, typically deriving from iron oxides, are generally not considered a health risk. These properties are weak and have minimal impact on the body's magnetic field or biological processes. Iron oxide particles used in MRI contrast agents are much larger and more magnetically responsive than those in cosmetic pigments, yet they are safe for most individuals. In semi-permanent makeup, the slight magnetic characteristics of the pigments do not significantly interact with bodily tissues or systems. The primary concern is ensuring the pigment's high quality, achieved through strict manufacturing guidelines and excluding harmful contaminants. Therefore, the magnetic properties of these pigments do not pose a health risk and do not substantially affect the body.

5. "Fully Organic" black in marketing

Understanding the Organic Label in Pigment Marketing

Regarding the marketing strategies employed by various pigment manufacturers, there are often claims that might seem overly optimistic. A common example is the description of Furnace Black pigments, also known as Carbon Black 2, as "purely organic." This claim hinges on these pigments containing about 55% hydrocarbon compounds, which are chemically classified as "organic."

The Reality of Pigment Composition

Understanding that no pigment can be entirely "100% organic" if it comprises hydrocarbons is essential. Pigments are typically a mixture of different substances, including elemental carbon. Elemental carbon lacks the carbon-hydrogen (C-H) bonds that are the hallmark of organic compounds. Furthermore, these pigments often undergo processes involving inorganic materials and might include additives for stability and other functions.

The Misleading Aspect of the “Purely Organic” Claim

Labeling a pigment as "purely organic" can be misleading, even if it contains a significant percentage of chemically considered organic compounds. For instance, carbon black pigments produced through furnace processes also have about 25-30% carbon-related elements, 5-10% elemental carbon (deemed inorganic), and approximately 10% other trace inorganics like potassium (K), chlorine (Cl), and calcium (Ca). These elements are typically present in small, often negligible quantities.

6. Observations on Color Indexes

Characteristics of Inorganic Pigments

Inorganic pigments, characterized by larger particle sizes, often present less vibrant colors and can be more challenging to apply to the skin. This attribute also makes them less likely to cause blowouts and migration. Typically, inorganic pigments tend to heal into brownish colors over time. The opacity of these pigments is closely related to their particle size.

The Tyndall Effect in Inorganic Pigments

The larger particle size of inorganic pigments significantly affects their interaction with light, causing a lighter appearance when implanted in the skin. This phenomenon is attributed to the Tyndall effect, where light is scattered differently due to the dispersed larger particles. As a result, inorganic pigments often appear more faded and less bright inside the skin. The general observation is that deeper pigment molecules look cooler and greyish, contributing to the muted appearance of inorganic particles in the skin.

Lightfastness of Inorganic Pigments

The larger particle size also enhances the Lightfastness of inorganic pigments, meaning they are more resistant to fading when exposed to light. The larger particles are less susceptible to degradation or color shifts under UV radiation or other light sources. This stability lends inorganic colorants a longer-lasting and more durable color quality than organic counterparts.

Implantation Challenges with Inorganic Pigments

Understanding a pigment's inorganic nature helps assess its practicality for use on different skin types and areas. For example, applying inorganic pigments to oily skin with an "orange peel" texture or tough feel can make achieving certain looks more difficult, like Powder Brows or Hairstrokes. Similarly, inorganic pigments may not be ideal for delicate procedures like eyeliner between lashes due to their application difficulty, the potential for more skin damage, and less vibrant color results.

Retention Considerations

An important aspect to consider is the expected retention duration of inorganic pigments. Generally, the retention period for inorganic pigments can be significantly shorter, sometimes even half as long as their organic counterparts. This consideration is vital when planning the pigment application based on the desired longevity and appearance of the semi-permanent makeup.

7. Details Behind Color Indexes

Variability in Carbon Black Pigments

The color index CI 77266 encompasses several types of Carbon Black pigments, each with distinct properties despite sharing the same color index. This includes Base Black or “Furnace Black” (Carbon Black 2), “Channel Black” (Carbon Black 6), and “Thermal Black” (Carbon Black 7). Although these colorants share the color index CI 77266, their particle sizes and other properties can significantly differ.

Particle Size Differences

For instance, “Channel Black” has a particle size of only 90-100 nanometers, which is quite small. On the other hand, “Thermal Black” may have much larger particles, with sizes up to 500 nanometers. These differences in particle size can profoundly affect how the pigment behaves when used in semi-permanent makeup procedures.

Investigating Beyond the Label

When a pigment label only provides the color index without additional details, an artist must delve deeper into the specifics of how that particular “carbon black” colorant was produced. This additional investigation is necessary to make informed conclusions about the pigment's characteristics and suitability for various applications.

Implications for Specific Procedures

The variability in properties like particle size becomes particularly important for specific application areas, such as eyeliner pigmentation. The choice between different types of carbon black pigments can impact the ease of application, the appearance of the color once healed, and the longevity of the pigment on the skin.

8. Particle Size and Composition

Beyond Particle Size: The Role of Chemical Composition

In the world of semi-permanent makeup, the efficacy of pigment implantation is not solely dependent on particle size. While particle size is a significant factor, the chemical composition of the pigment plays an equally, if not more, critical role.

Case in Point: Furnace Black vs. Channel Black

Consider the example of Furnace Black (Black 2) and Channel Black (Black 6). Despite Furnace Black's larger particle size of 200-300 nm, it is relatively easier to implant than Channel Black, which has smaller particles of 90-100 nm. This seemingly counterintuitive scenario can be explained by examining their chemical makeup.

Hydrocarbon Content: A Key Differentiator

Furnace Black contains about 55% hydrocarbon content, which is organic. Organic compounds generally exhibit better compatibility with biological tissues, including skin, facilitating easier implantation. In contrast, Channel Black has a lower hydrocarbon content of only 19%. Despite its smaller particle size, its reduced affinity with skin tissues makes it more challenging to implant effectively.

The Importance of Understanding Chemical Makeup

When selecting pigments for procedures, artists must consider both the particle size and the chemical nature of the pigment. Carbon, for instance, can present as elemental carbon (inorganic) or as hydrocarbon (bonding with hydrogen, C-H). This distinction in chemical structure can significantly influence the ease of pigment application and integration with the skin.

9. Order of Color Indexes

Clues from the Label: Understanding Pigment Composition v In the realm of semi-permanent makeup, the label of a pigment can offer valuable insights into its composition. Specifically, the order in which the color index codes and additive names are listed on the label can provide clues about the concentration of each component within the pigment.

Order of Ingredients: A Hierarchy of Concentration

The order of ingredients follows a hierarchy, where the first-listed ingredient is typically the most predominant, and subsequent ingredients decrease in quantity or concentration. This hierarchy can offer a fundamental understanding of what constitutes the bulk of the pigment.

A Complex Picture: Beyond Order of Ingredients

However, it's crucial to recognize that the order of ingredients is just one piece of the puzzle. For instance, if a pigment has a black color index code listed first, indicating its prominence, but also contains multiple yellow or red colorants, it suggests warm undertones. Despite black being the dominant colorant, the presence of other colorants can significantly influence the overall tone of the pigment. This complexity makes it necessary to consider more than just the order of ingredients when selecting pigments.

Looking Beyond Colorants: Thickeners and Shades

Other elements listed on the pigment label, such as thickeners like glycerine, hold critical information. The concentration of thickeners can provide insights into the pigment's consistency, guiding artists on the best technique for optimal results. Understanding the pigment shades can inform us about the color's potential cooling or warming effects when applied. This knowledge is particularly valuable when aiming for specific tonal results in areas like eyeliner or brow shading.

A Holistic Perspective: Ingredients and Behavior

In summary, while the order of ingredients on a pigment label is a useful starting point, it offers only a partial view. A comprehensive understanding of a pigment's behavior during and after application requires a holistic perspective that considers all the ingredients, not just the colorants. This approach allows artists to make informed decisions and achieve the desired results in semi-permanent makeup.

10. Conclusions

Realistic Expectations: Understanding Pigment Labels

When it comes to deciphering pigment labels, it's essential to maintain realistic expectations. Companies typically disclose minimal label information, just enough to comply with regulatory requirements. While most pigments meet these requirements, the chances of discovering something revelatory from the label alone are slim.

The Influence of Marketing: Context Matters

Pigment labels should be seen in the broader context of a company's marketing strategy. Different companies often emphasize the benefits of specific ingredients. For example, if a pigment contains Iron oxides, marketing will likely focus on their advantages, and vice versa. Companies may also seek to justify their choices by highlighting the drawbacks of alternatives they do not use.

Dermatological Assurance: Safety in Formulation

Dermatologists confirm that properly formulated iron oxides and carbon black pigments are generally safe. They assert that the magnetic properties of some pigments do not pose a health risk. The critical factor is the quality of the pigment and its freedom from harmful contaminants.

The "Purely Organic" Misnomer

Caution is warranted when encountering "purely organic" terms on pigment labels. No pigment can be truly 100% organic as it consists solely of hydrocarbons. What can be concluded, however, is that inorganic pigments typically have larger particle sizes, resulting in a lighter appearance and more muted colors when implanted. The pigment choice should always be mindful of the intended implantation area, as there is no one-size-fits-all solution. Inorganic pigments may not be ideal for oily or tough skin types.

The Intricacies of Color Index Codes

It's essential to recognize that the same color index code can refer to different substances with varying particle sizes and properties. An example is CI 77266, known as Carbon Black, which can have distinct properties depending on whether it is channeled, furnaced, or produced through thermal processing.

Particle Size and Beyond

While particle size is critical, it should not be viewed in isolation. The chemical composition of a pigment can equally affect its ease of implantation. Additionally, the collective analysis of additives and colorants within the pigment is more valuable than concluding based solely on their order in the ingredient list. Assuming that a pigment inherits the properties of the first-listed element with a CI number can be misleading.

The Quest for Informed Pigment Selection

In conclusion, exploring the world of pigments requires a well-informed approach. Labels provide a starting point, but a comprehensive understanding of pigments involves considering multiple factors. It involves being aware of marketing strategies, recognizing formulation safety, and understanding pigment properties' nuances. With these insights, artists can make informed choices to achieve their desired results in semi-permanent makeup.