4. Particle Size and Micronization
In the specialized world of Permanent Makeup (PMU), understanding "particle size" and "micronization" is critical, though these concepts often don't receive the attention they deserve.
Understanding Particle Size
Particle size refers to the dimensions of individual pigment particles within a PMU formula, typically measured in micrometers (microns). This size significantly influences the pigment's color intensity, dispersion in the skin, and retention. Larger particles offer more vibrant colors but may not disperse as evenly and could be more prone to fading. Conversely, smaller particles provide a softer color, disperse more uniformly, and yield longer-lasting results.
The Micronization Process
Micronization is a pivotal process in pigment production, involving the grinding pigment particles into finer sizes using specialized machinery like ball mills or jet mills. The aim is to enhance the smoothness of application and color payoff on the skin. Micronization reduces the average diameter of solid material particles, often extending to the nanometer scale for more refined results.
Traditional vs. Modern Micronization Techniques
Traditional micronization methods rely on mechanical actions such as milling and grinding. For instance, steel spheres in a rotating drum crush particles to smaller sizes in industrial mills. Modern techniques, however, utilize supercritical fluids to control particle size more precisely through processes like RESS, SAS, and PGSS. These advanced methods offer greater control over particle size and consistency.
Relevance in Semi-Permanent Pigments
In semi-permanent pigments, micronization's role is paramount. Finer, more consistent particle sizes result in smoother application, uniform color distribution, and reduced blotchiness or uneven fading. Additionally, smaller particles can dissolve more readily, enhancing the pigment's efficacy and longevity under the skin.
Micronization from a Producer's Perspective
For producers, micronization is a balancing act between legality, cost-effectiveness, and ease of application. Legal Constraints. Producers must ensure their pigments comply with safety standards and legal requirements. Cost-Effectiveness. Finding efficient micronization methods that don't inflate costs is crucial for maintaining profitability. Ease of Implantation. Pigments should be easily implantable by artists, requiring minimal passes while preventing migration and blurry edges.
Particle Size and Opacity: Smaller particles increase opacity in the skin as larger gaps between bigger particles can make the pigment appear less opaque, necessitating more passes.
Consistency and Composition. Smaller particles often need more carrier fluids to maintain a usable consistency, which can dilute the colorant concentration and potentially affect the pigment's effectiveness and longevity once implanted.
Producers must navigate these complexities, akin to solving multiple puzzles simultaneously, to achieve the optimal balance between particle size, stability, ease of implantation, consistency, and cost.