Needles explained

Videos

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Natural PMU...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, Organic growth...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Articles

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Cashmiere Brows...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Offline marketing, Online marketing, website, domains...

Practical Tips

Tutorials, Action plans, Point-by-poin advice...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Facebook

Business account, Ads, Targeting...

Instagram

Organic growth, Fake followers, ads...

Pricing

1. Background

The information in this article is based on extensive research, including 42 interviews with experienced semi-permanent makeup artists. These artists have been actively working in the industry for over four years. The interviews, conducted between 2020 and 2023, covered various facets of their work, focusing on the equipment used in semi-permanent makeup (PMU), such as the machines and needle cartridges.

The primary objective of this article is to elucidate the characteristics of needles utilized in the semi-permanent makeup industry. Specifically, it focuses on those needles used for creating powder brows, a popular technique in this field.

2. Needle Properties

Understanding Needle Theory

In pigmentation work, comprehending needle theory is complex, often only surpassed by the intricacies of pigmentology. Many trainers dedicate a significant portion of their courses to this topic, sometimes more than two hours. However, an exhaustive discussion on needles and needle cartridges can be overwhelming and impractical. The reason is simple: despite the vast array of needle combinations and characteristics available, an artist must be well-versed in just a handful of these options for regular use.

Basic Markers on Needle Packages

On every needle package, you will find four essential markers.

The diameter of the needle
Number of needles in the cartridge
Formation of the needles in the cartridge
Taper length, categorized as short, medium, or long
For example, a string of letters and numbers indicating these
properties might look like "30 1 RL MT”.

We will now examine these properties - diameter, count, formation, and taper - in detail.

3. Diameter

This term refers to the width of an individual needle within the cartridge. Typical diameters include.

20 (0.20 mm)
25 (0.25 mm)
30 (0.30 mm)
35 (0.35 mm)

The measurement is taken at the shaft of the needle, its widest part, rather than the tip.

Key Points About Needle Diameter

The larger the needle diameter, the more pigment it delivers to the skin. For techniques like powdering, a wider diameter can result in increased saturation.

The diameter affects the size of the dots or "pixels" created during the procedure. Larger needles produce bigger dots, whereas finer needles yield smaller powdering dots.

While the diameter plays a role in determining pixel size, its impact should be seen as one of many elements in the pigmentation process. It's not overwhelmingly influential but still noteworthy. Many artists, especially for achieving fine pixelation, prefer thinner needles, like those with a 0.25 mm diameter.

4. Needle Count and Formation

Number of Needles

This indicates the total count of needles in a cartridge, impacting the number of skin punctures per machine stroke. Needle counts range from 1 to approximately 20-25, offering diverse textural effects and coverage. Cartridges with a single needle are most common among artists for powder brows.

Formation (Grouping)

This refers to how needles are arranged in the cartridge. It's about the spatial relationship of the needles to each other when more than one is present.

Key Formations

RL (Round Liner): Ideal for precise lines and detailed work.
RS (Round Shader): Better for shading and softer lines.
Other Notable Formations
F (Flat)
MI (Magnum)
RM (Curved Magnum)

These formations suit particular textural and shading needs. They cover large areas quickly and can deliver a substantial amount of color. Magnum needles are noted for their efficiency in pigment implantation with minimal pressure. However, excessive pressure can lead to over-saturation, especially with formations containing more needles.

Combining needle count with formation significantly affects the results. For example, "liner" formations focus needles to a point for precision, while "shader" formations distribute them for broader coverage.

Round Liners (RL)

RL cartridges converge needles to a point for sharp, precise lines, making them excellent for detailed work. They are used in powder brows for contouring and shading, offering precision and significant pigment deposit. Their circular, close arrangement also minimizes vibration. A single needle (1RL) is highly effective for fine details.

Round Shaders (RS)

RS cartridges position needles for wider, softer lines, suitable for shading. Organized in a broom-like pattern, RS needles offer less precision but efficiently disperse the pigment. More needles mean more dispersed pigment and slower deposition.

Simplified Formations

In RL cartridges, needles converge to a point, perfect for detailed, precise lines. In RS cartridges, needles are more loosely arranged in a circle, ideal for shading and softer effects. These differ from Flat cartridges (needles in a straight row) and Magnum cartridges (needles in two rows).

Regarding needle markings, a single needle, like in a 1RS, is correctly termed “1R” since there's no formation for a single needle.

Applications in Powder Brows and Hairstrokes

1RL: Used for front pixelation and edges.
3RS/5RS/7RM(CM): Sometimes used for shading in the brow body, common in classic powder brows.
For soft powder brows, 1RL is often used for the entire eyebrow, occasionally adding 3RS for a more defined lower edge.

It's important to note that round-liner needles implant pigment more rapidly. Beginners sometimes underestimate the amount of pigment these needles can deposit, particularly with organic pigments.

Observation Regarding Single Needles

A single needle-like 1RS should be referred to as 1R, as there's no formation for a single needle.

5. Needle Taper

The taper of a needle is the distance from the needle's point to where its diameter remains constant. Different taper lengths influence pigment delivery and the resultant skin impression. Common tapers include the following.

Short Taper (ST): Traditionally 1.0 mm, modern cartridges may have 1.5-2.0 mm.
Medium Taper (MT): Originally 1.5 mm, sometimes 3.0-4.0 mm.
Long Taper (LT): Usually 2.0 mm, with modern versions up to 5+ mm.
Double Long Taper (DLT): Typically around 2.5 mm.

In older tattoo machine cartridges, these measurements were larger and still vary among manufacturers.

Understanding Needle Taper
Short Taper

These needles penetrate the skin quicker as the wider part reaches the skin sooner. They create larger holes and deliver more pigment but can cause more skin trauma. Short taper needles are used in powder brows for larger pixels and faster pigment flow. They are preferred for specific techniques like pendulum movement and whip shading. For Soft Powder Brows, however, many artists opt for medium tapers.

Medium Taper

Not as sharp as long taper needles, medium tapers cause less trauma and are favored for sensitive skin. They produce smaller pixels than short tapers and strike a balance between pigment delivery and skin trauma.

Long Taper

Long taper needles make smaller holes, delivering less pigment and causing less trauma. They allow for controlled ink distribution, ideal for layering and smooth blending. These needles are often used for precise work, such as creating hair strokes.

Selecting the Right Taper

While taper measurements may vary, choosing a needle based on the properties described is generally adequate for most semi-permanent makeup applications. Each taper type possesses unique characteristics that affect ink transport into the skin, influencing the final effect and skin reaction. Proper taper selection is key to achieving the intended result while minimizing skin trauma.

Regarding pigments, short and medium tapers are typically preferred for non-concentrated, thicker pigments. Many professionals recommend long and double tapers for liquid, dense, and hybrid pigments.

6. Needle Span (Needle Hang)

Needle span, or needle hang, refers to how far the needle extends from the cartridge. While this can vary with different machines, an effective span for quality work is typically about 2mm.

Effects of Needle Span Length

Too Short Span. A needle span that's too short tends to deposit a lot of pigment on the skin's surface rather than implanting it deeper. This can lead to superficial pigment coverage without proper implantation in the skin.
Too Long Span. On the other hand, a too long span may result in insufficient pigment pickup from the cartridge. This often leads to skin damage because the needle doesn't effectively implant pigment into the skin.

Practical View on Needle Span

While some trainers offer detailed discussions on the “ideal needle span,” experienced artists know that problems with span length become quickly evident during application. Consider the following scenarios.

Inadequate Span. The artist will notice an excess of pigment on the skin's surface without it being properly implanted.
Excessive Span. This results in “dry lines,” where the needle injures the skin without depositing pigment. Continuing to work with a span that is too long, despite seeing its ineffectiveness, is a critical error.

Therefore, while it's important to understand needle span, skilled artists often intuitively adjust based on immediate feedback during the procedure. Identifying signs of an overly short or long needle span is a fundamental skill. It allows the artist to make the necessary adjustments for optimal pigment delivery. In essence, persisting in trying to create powder brows with either “dry lines” or excessive superficial pigment due to incorrect span length reflects a significant lack of understanding.

7. Basic Needle Movements

Understanding needle movements is crucial, even though they are not inherent properties of the needle itself but rather techniques integral to semi-permanent makeup.

Pendulum Movement

This involves the needle swinging into and out of the skin in both directions, akin to a pendulum. Practicing this movement is beneficial for beginners. However, in powder brows applications, it's often seen as less effective for achieving optimal pixelation.

Whip Movement

A fundamental technique, whip movement, occurs when the needle touches the skin in one direction and returns to its starting point without re-contacting it. This method allows for precision and control. There are two types: whipping towards oneself (visible needle contact with the skin) and whipping away. Experienced artists often prefer whipping for better visual control. It's believed that whipping away deposits more pigment while whipping towards deposits slightly less.

Etching Movement

The needle continuously moves forward in the skin, creating distinct and clear lines. Unlike other movements, the needle remains in the skin throughout the process, leading to a substantial pigment deposit. This technique is particularly useful for defining sharp, clear lines.

Circle Movement

This involves creating small, overlapping circular motions. Circle movement is effective for densely packing pigment into the skin. It's also used to inject large amounts of substances, like saline-based removal gels, to oversaturate an area deliberately.

For artists, especially newcomers, understanding these different needle movements is vital. Each offers unique advantages and is suitable for various aspects of semi-permanent makeup. Mastering these techniques greatly improves the quality of work and client satisfaction.

8. Machine Speed

Aligning Device Settings with Technique

The speed setting on a PMU (Permanent Makeup) device should be coordinated with the artist's hand speed and the desired outcome of the procedure.

Slower Speeds. Ideal for slower hand movements, slower machine speeds help create more pronounced pixels, essential in techniques like pixelation.
Faster Speeds. Necessary for quick hand movements to avoid over-pigmentation. Fast speeds are crucial in maintaining design integrity and preventing excess pigment deposition.

Challenging Myths About Machine Speed

In the PMU industry, some trainers promote specific machine speeds as the secret to flawless results. Artists should view these claims critically, as they often aim more at attracting attention than offering practical advice.

Considering the variety of machines with different settings, battery operations, and power connections, no universal speed setting applies to all scenarios.

Power Units Example

Take the Atom series from Critical, for instance. Many artists find settings between 4.8-5.2 volts effective for powdering techniques. Yet, this isn't universally applicable, as the results also depend on the handpiece used with the power unit.

Understanding and Adjusting Machine Speed

Machine speed adjustment in PMU practice is a nuanced task. Artists need to consider their technique, the specifics of the procedure, and their equipment's characteristics. Instead of relying on generalized "secrets" or universal settings, the focus should be on how machine speed harmonizes with the artist's style and tools. Developing a sense of this interaction is more valuable than adhering to a one-size-fits-all approach.

9. Nozzles

Understanding Cartridges and Nozzles

In semi-permanent makeup, the needles used in pigmentation machines come in different forms, not just as cartridges. A notable alternative is nozzles.

Nozzles are needles attached directly to the machine. They differ from cartridges because they lack the classic ink provision system found in cartridge needles.

Characteristics of Nozzles

Often referred to as S-type or T acupuncture needles, nozzles are prized for their ability to create extremely fine, detailed work. They are particularly adept at producing thin hairstroke lines, making them ideal for intricate designs.

Many artists appreciate how nozzles, securely fixed to the machine, facilitate a smoother pigment flow. This feature is especially beneficial for filling in small, detailed areas.

However, it's crucial to recognize that nozzles are generally unsuitable for shading tasks. Their design and function are tailored more towards precision line work than the broader strokes required in shading techniques.

In summary, while cartridges are the more commonly used form in semi-permanent makeup machines for various techniques, including shading, nozzles present an alternative specifically geared towards fine, detailed work.

10. Conclusions

This article has covered essential aspects of needle cartridges used in semi-permanent makeup, highlighting the importance of understanding basic markers like diameter, needle count, formation, and taper length. These elements are crucial for selecting the appropriate needle for specific techniques.

Needle Diameter: Influences pigment flow, with larger diameters leading to increased saturation.

Needle Count and Formation: Dictate the work's texture and finish, from Round Liners for precision to Round Shaders for softer effects. For instance, single needles (like a 25 1 RL MT) are often used in powder brows.

Machine Stroke Height: Categorized into short, medium, and long strokes, this aspect is key in determining needle impact depth. Different machines may have varying definitions, emphasizing the need for accuracy in millimeter measurements.

We also explored basic movements essential in semi-permanent makeup:

Pendulum Movement: Useful for beginners, less effective for pixelation in powder brows.

Whip Movement: Offers precision and involves a one-directional touch without re-contact.

Etching Movement: Continuously moves forward, ideal for clear lines due to significant pigment deposit.

Circle Movement: Involves overlapping circles, effective for dense pigment packing and injecting larger quantities of substances like saline-based removal gels.

Additionally, we distinguished between cartridges and nozzles. Cartridges are versatile for various techniques, whereas nozzles are specialized for precision and detailed work like fine hairstrokes but are less suited for shading.

The article also addressed machine speed, underscoring the need for artists to align it with their hand speed. It debunked myths about "correct" machine speeds, highlighting the importance of artists understanding how machine speed works with their style and equipment.