How to mix inorganic pigments

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Pricing

1. Background

The practice of mixing pigments is a subject that often raises numerous questions among artists in the semi-permanent makeup industry. This article is informed by insights from interviews with 19 distinguished artists who are top earners and represent the upper 19% of income generators in their local markets. Each artist we consulted has at least four years of experience, specializing particularly in Powder Brows and Hairstrokes services.

To ensure the accuracy and scientific validity of the information presented, this article has undergone a thorough review by two individuals holding advanced degrees in chemistry alongside a professional dermatologist. The conclusions and practical advice presented here reflect a consensus among the interviewed experienced artists and the academic and medical professionals who reviewed the content. These shared insights aim to provide clear, reliable guidance for artists looking to understand and perfect the art of pigment mixing in their practice.

2. Basic components of pigments

When discussing "pigments" within the realm of semi-permanent makeup, it's crucial to understand precisely what the term entails. 'pigment' is commonly used broadly, but the reality is more intricate. Specifically, in this context, a pigment is always a composite of two fundamentally distinct parts: additives and colorants.

Colorants

The colorant is the essential ingredient that imparts the pigment its distinct color. Whether you're looking at a bold black or a gentle shade of brown, the colorant is the visible component. For instance, in Powder Brows and Hairstrokes, black iron oxide might be used as a colorant to achieve a deep, enduring brow color. Alternatively, an organic compound like CI 12475 would provide a red hue. The colorant is the aspect that first catches the eye and defines the pigment's primary visual characteristic.

Additives

Additives encompass a variety of substances incorporated into colorants to facilitate their implantation into the skin. While they don't typically contribute to the pigment's color, additives are vital in defining its "character." They significantly influence how the pigment behaves during and after application. For example, a pigment containing a fast-evaporating solvent may dry more quickly, offering certain practical advantages, but it might also present more challenges during application. In essence, additives are the unsung heroes that ensure the pigment performs optimally once applied, affecting everything from texture and drying time to longevity and stability.

Colorants and additives form the complex entity known as pigment, each playing a pivotal role in the pigment's performance and appearance in semi-permanent makeup. Understanding these components is crucial for any artist looking to master their craft and make informed choices about the materials they use.

3. Additives

Solvents

Solvents are liquids that dissolve the colorant, facilitating a smoother application process. They play a critical role in the consistency and spreadability of the pigment. For example, alcohol might be utilized as a solvent in certain pigments. The choice of solvent can significantly affect the viscosity and drying time of the pigment, making it a vital component to consider for both the artist's ease of application and the final look.

Binders

Binders are substances that help maintain the pigment's cohesion, ensuring that it adheres effectively to the skin once applied. They are the 'glue' that keeps the pigment particles together and in place. In Powder Brows and Hairstrokes products, glycerin is a common binder. It holds the pigment together and can impart a certain smoothness to the application, influencing the pigment's texture and interaction with the skin.

Fillers and Preservatives

Fillers are materials used to bulk up the pigment. They might not contribute to the color but can significantly affect the pigment's texture and application properties. Common fillers like talc or mica can alter the density and spreadability of the pigment. While fillers primarily impact the volume and consistency, they can also subtly affect the color's intensity and finish.

Although not always categorized as fillers, preservatives are frequently added to pigments. They serve an essential function in prolonging the shelf life of the pigment and preventing bacterial growth, ensuring the product remains safe and stable over time. Both fillers and preservatives are crucial in defining the overall quality and usability of the pigment, affecting everything from its longevity to how it feels and behaves on the skin.

Thus, solvents, binders, and fillers (along with preservatives) are the critical additives that create a complete pigment when combined with colorants. Each type of additive plays a distinct role in the pigment's performance, influencing its application, appearance, and longevity. Understanding these additives allows artists to make informed choices and use pigments that best suit their technique and client's needs.

4. Colorants

When discussing the nuances of pigments in semi-permanent makeup, we're primarily referring to the differences in colorants, as these are the elements that most directly impact the color and intensity of the application. Colorants within pigments can be categorized into pigments, dyes, or lacquers (essentially solid form dyes). Let's delve into each category.

Pigments

Pigments are insoluble substances that are finely ground into a solid state. They are opaque and do not allow light to pass, offering significant covering power and chemical stability. Pigments can be divided into two main categories based on their composition. Inorganic Pigments. Typically derived from mineral sources, these pigments are known for their robust stability and resistance to environmental factors like UV radiation. Common examples include titanium dioxide for its bright whiteness and iron oxides for earthy tones. Organic Pigments. These pigments are carbon-based, often derived from petrochemicals or natural organic compounds. They tend to provide brighter, more vivid colors but may not be as stable over time as their inorganic counterparts.

Dyes

Dyes are originally solid substances that are highly soluble, meaning they can dissolve in various mediums such as oils, water, and alcohol. They provide vibrant colors but are generally less stable chemically, making them more susceptible to environmental factors like light exposure. Dyes have lower hiding power than pigments, meaning they are less effective in concealing the underlying surface. Lacquers

Lacquers are essentially dyes that have been converted into a solid form, combining some properties of pigments and dyes. They provide strong staining power and can produce vivid, bright colors. Being insoluble in bodily fluids, they are resistant to agents that could degrade them, thus enhancing the durability of the pigmentation. Lacquers are generally organic, as they are typically made from organic dyes, offering a range of bright and impactful colors.

5. Categorization of Pigments

Pigments, vital to the art of semi-permanent makeup, can be categorized in several ways, often due to the nature of their colorants. Understanding these categories is crucial for artists to select the right pigments for their specific needs and to ensure the safety and satisfaction of their clients.

Solubility

Pigments are characterized by their solubility in different solvents. Some are water-soluble, dissolving easily in water, while others are oil-soluble, requiring oil-based solutions to dissolve. Knowing a pigment's solubility is essential in predicting how it will interact with the skin and other components in the makeup mixture.

Way of Production

Pigments are classified as either synthetic or natural based on their production method. Synthetic pigments are engineered through chemical processes, often yielding a wide range of vibrant colors. Natural pigments are extracted from sources like plants and minerals and may have a more limited color palette but are sought after for their natural origins.

Origin of Colorant

The source of the colorant in the pigment determines whether it's organic or inorganic. Organic pigments, derived from carbon-based materials, are known for their bright colors but may lack long-term stability. Inorganic pigments, typically mined from minerals, offer more stability and durability, although they may not provide the same vibrancy as organic options.

Particle Size

The size of pigment particles varies, affecting the pigment's application and the final appearance of the makeup. Finer particles often result in a smoother application and a more subtle look, while larger particles can provide more coverage and a bolder appearance.

Toxicity

Pigments are also categorized based on their toxicity levels. It's crucial to be aware of any potentially harmful substances in the pigments, such as heavy metals, to ensure the safety of the artist and the client.

Lightfastness

Lightfastness refers to a pigment's resistance to fading when exposed to light. Pigments with high lightfastness maintain their color better over time, making them ideal for applications where long-term color stability is desired.

6. Chemical Properties of Colorants

A basic grasp of their chemistry is essential to mix inorganic pigments and understand their interactions. Here's a breakdown of what differentiates organic from inorganic substances, especially in pigments.

Understanding Inorganic Pigments

Inorganic pigments, typically mineral-based, are characterized by their lack of hydrocarbons. These pigments don't contain a carbon (C) molecule bonded to a hydrogen (H) molecule (C-H), which classifies them as inorganic. They're commonly composed of metal oxides, sulfides, or other salts. Their chemical stability and often vibrant coloration make them popular in various applications, including semi-permanent makeup.

What Does “Organic” Mean in Chemistry?

In chemistry, "organic" refers to compounds featuring carbon-hydrogen (C-H) bonds. These compounds might also contain other elements like oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur. The defining characteristic of an organic compound is the presence of C-H bonds. For instance, methane (CH4) is considered an organic compound due to these essential bonds.

Contrasting with Inorganic Compounds

Inorganic compounds are those lacking C-H bonds. This category includes elemental forms of carbon, such as graphite and diamond, which are considered inorganic despite being composed entirely of carbon atoms. It's important to note that elemental carbon doesn't neatly fall into organic or inorganic categories; instead, it's the foundation upon which organic chemistry is built.

Classification in Pigments

In the pigment world, those containing C-H bonds are deemed "organic," regardless of any additional elements in their molecular structure. Organic pigments may include other elements like oxygen and nitrogen but maintain their organic classification due to C-H bonds. These pigments are known for their bright colors and versatility.

Determining Organic vs. Inorganic

Classifying a compound as organic or inorganic hinges on the presence or absence of C-H bonds. It's not about the total amount of hydrocarbons or elemental carbon but the specific bonding structure defining the compound's category.

7. Ionic and Covalent Molecular Structure

Understanding the intricacies of how pigments mix and interact with the skin requires delving into their molecular structure. This deeper chemical insight reveals the nature of ionic and covalent bonds within pigments and their implications.

Simplifying Ionic vs. Covalent

It's a common oversimplification among artists to say that inorganic pigments with ionic structures break down more easily in the skin, while organic pigments with covalent structures are more stable. Some believe ionic molecules are more readily removed from the body, while covalent ones remain. While ionic bonds tend to be more soluble in water and might be less stable under certain conditions than covalent bonds, this isn't the whole story. The skin's retention and stability of pigments are influenced by various factors, including the pigment's specific formulation, the individual's skin type, and external environmental factors.

Formulated for Longevity

Both inorganic and organic pigments, whether they form ionic or covalent bonds, are carefully formulated to maximize retention in the skin. Additives such as stabilizers and binders are incorporated to enhance both types of pigments' stability and longevity. The bonds' chemical nature plays a role, but it's not the sole determinant of a pigment's lasting power in the skin.

Stability of Ionic Structures

Many inorganic pigments, like iron oxides, have ionic structures, which doesn't inherently make them unstable or soluble in the skin. For instance, iron oxides used in semi-permanent makeup are engineered for stability and aren't readily soluble in water or bodily fluids. They're formulated specifically to be long-lasting when embedded in the skin.

Covalent Bonds in Organic Pigments

Organic pigments typically have covalent molecular structures, but this doesn't directly correlate with their solubility or permanence in the body. Organic pigments are designed to be stable and resist dissolution like their inorganic counterparts.

Factors Influencing Removal

Removing a pigment from the body is contingent on several factors, including the size of the pigment particles, the depth of insertion into the skin, and the body's immune response. The pigment's organic or inorganic nature is just one piece of a much larger puzzle. Both pigments can be engineered to be stable and enduring when used in semi-permanent makeup.

8. Chemical Complexity

Understanding the intricate nature of pigments and their components is crucial, and Red Iron Oxide is a perfect example of this complexity.

Red Iron Oxide – Beyond Simple Categorizations

Red Iron Oxide, a common inorganic compound used in pigments, often defies simple categorization. Contrary to the assumption that it possesses an ionic molecular structure prone to easy breakdown and removal from the body, the reality is more intricate. Iron Oxide doesn't fit neatly into the category of compounds with purely ionic molecular structures.

Ionic vs. Polar-Covalent Structure

Iron(III) oxide, or Fe2O3, is often perceived as ionic, but it actually exhibits a mixed bonding character that is both ionic and covalent. The atoms in this compound are held together in a crystal lattice where ionic and covalent interactions occur. While the electrostatic forces between charged ions typically hold ionic compounds together, Fe2O3's bonding also shows a degree of covalency, particularly due to the polarizing power of iron cations. This mixed character makes its classification as purely ionic an oversimplification.

Going Beyond the Periodic Table

A superficial look at the periodic table might lead one to categorize Fe2O3 as ionic due to its composition from a metal and a non-metal. However, delving into its electronegativity reveals a more complex story. Many classifications indicate that the structure of this compound is more accurately described as polar-covalent. This means that while there are ionic aspects to its bonding, sharing electron pairs (a hallmark of covalent bonds) plays a significant role in its structure.

9. Mixing Mono Colors

Next, let's delve into some practical advice concerning mixing inorganic pigments.

Complexity of Mixing Multiple Colors

When you combine two or more pigments, each already a mixture of various colors, you introduce a complex array of color compounds. This complexity can make it challenging to predict the outcome. Often, this results in a 'muddied' or grayish hue, as the wide spectrum of colors in each mix might neutralize one another, particularly if they're complementary or situated oppositely on the color wheel.

Advantages of Mono Colors

Conversely, when dealing with mono colors — single, unblended hues — you gain a much clearer insight into the starting colors. This clarity allows for greater precision when adjusting the final shade. For instance, mixing a pure mono-color like yellow iron oxide (CI 77492) with black yields a more predictable and consistent result than blending two light brown pigments, which might produce a similar yet less controlled color. Achieving such specificity is more challenging with pre-mixed pigments because each contains several color compounds.

Customization with Mono-Colors

Using mono-colors opens up the possibility of creating customized shades, allowing you to tailor the color precisely to each client's unique needs. In services like semi-permanent makeup, where even minor color variations can significantly impact, this ability to fine-tune the shade is invaluable. By starting with mono colors, you can adjust the intensity and hue incrementally, ensuring the final result perfectly matches the client's desired outcome.

10. Practical Mixing Suggestions

Mixing pigments, especially inorganic and organic types, involves understanding their chemical properties and behaviors. Here's a comprehensive guide to help you navigate this complex task.

Organic and Inorganic Compatibility

It's possible to mix inorganic and organic pigments, including those from different brands. However, this requires careful consideration of their chemical compatibility and stability. While some artists report difficulties blending inorganic mineral colors with certain organic compounds like Carbon Black (Black 2), it's not an absolute rule. The key is understanding the specific properties and reactions of the pigments involved.

Importance of Additives

The additives in pigments play a significant role in determining the outcome of a mix. Understanding the chemical makeup of the pigment's "carrier" part is essential. Ensure the additives in the pigments you're mixing are compatible, ideally having similar compounds listed as their primary components. Mismatched additives can lead to unpredictable reactions and destabilize the mixture.

Micronization and Particle Sizes

Mixing pigments with vastly different particle sizes is generally discouraged. Different particle sizes can lead to uneven dispersion, complicating application and healing. Before mixing, research the micronization levels of the pigments to ensure their particle sizes are compatible. This step helps avoid time-consuming and potentially unsuccessful mixing attempts.

Chemical Compositions and Mixing

Different chemical compositions, such as those between elemental carbon-based pigments and inorganic mineral pigments, can interact unpredictably. For example, while Furnace Carbon black (black 2) may present challenges when mixed with certain inorganic pigments, others like Channel black and Thermal black (CI 77266) may mix more successfully. Always consider the specific chemical makeup and potential interactions of the pigments you mix. Quality and Formulation Considerations

The quality and formulation of pigments, especially when mixing different brands, are crucial. Each brand's unique formula can include a variety of additives, stabilizers, binders, or fillers, which might interact in unforeseen ways when mixed.

Simplifying the Color Palette

Limiting the number of colors in a mix can make the process more manageable and the results more predictable. A focused palette of up to three colors, possibly supplemented by a neutralizer or corrector, allows for better control and consistency. This approach simplifies adjustments and understanding of pigment interactions.

Performing Patch-Tests

Conduct patch and stability tests before fully committing to a pigment mix. Applying the mix to a small skin area helps ensure there are no adverse reactions and assesses the color's stability over time. This step is crucial for confirming the safety and effectiveness of your mixture.

The Water Test

While some artists use a water test to gauge immediate solubility or compatibility, it's important to remember that skin is a far more complex environment. A water test might provide some initial insights, but it's not a comprehensive method for predicting long-term stability in the skin. Use it as a preliminary step, but follow up with more specific tests.

Relying on Comprehensive Testing

While water tests can offer some clues, they shouldn't be your sole method for assessing pigment mixtures. More thorough testing methods, like patch tests and stability tests on actual skin, are vital for accurately determining the behavior and compatibility of pigment mixtures.

11. Mixing Suggestions

Understanding the interplay between pigment colors and skin tones is crucial for achieving natural-looking results in semi-permanent makeup. Here are some practical mixing suggestions based on common scenarios

Capillaries Seen - Add Orange

Adding a mono-color orange to your pigment mix can be beneficial when working with skin that exhibits visible capillaries. Orange pigment helps neutralize the bluish hue of the capillaries, promoting a more balanced and natural skin tone. Many artists have successfully implemented this approach to counteract the cool undertones associated with capillaries.

Iron Oxide Yellow - A Reliable Mono-Color Corrector

Yellow, particularly iron oxide yellow, is frequently used as a mono-color corrector. Iron oxide pigments are known for their stability and consistency in color. Using mono-color yellow can help create stable mixes and is often used to adjust and correct color imbalances in the skin.

Red Can Be Problematic

Red pigments can present challenges, especially in individuals with naturally reddish skin undertones. Adding more red in such cases may result in an excessively reddish final appearance, which might not be desirable. However, red pigments can be beneficial in other contexts to add warmth or correct cool tones. The key is to carefully assess each client's skin undertones before deciding how much and whether to use red.

Often Best Mix: Orange + Yellow + Magenta + Black

A blend of orange, yellow, magenta, and black has been a successful formula for many artists. This combination can provide a versatile base for a wide range of skin tones. While Iron Oxide Black (CI 77499) is commonly used, Carbon Black (CI 77266), specifically Thermal Black (Black 7) or Channel Black (Black 6), has also been a popular choice. However, Furnace Black (Black 2) results have been less favorable due to its mixing challenges.

Individualized Approach

Remembering that these suggestions are starting points rather than definitive solutions is essential. Each client's skin is unique, with its own set of characteristics and reactions. Experimentation with different high-quality mono-color pigments is encouraged to find the most suitable mix for each individual. The quality of pigments often correlates with the price; typically, the better the quality, the higher the cost. However, investing in good pigments is crucial for achieving the best and most reliable results.

12. Conclusions

Organic or inorganic pigments come with distinct molecular structures that influence their behavior and longevity in the skin. Organic pigments are typically characterized by covalent bonds, offering bright colors but with varying stability. Inorganic pigments, on the other hand, generally have ionic or crystalline structures, known for their durability and resistance to environmental factors. Both types, however, are meticulously formulated to ensure they remain stable and long-lasting once implanted in the skin. Factors like implantation depth, particle size, and the body's immune response are also pivotal in determining the longevity of the pigment.

In the realm of mixing pigments, starting with mono colors (single, unblended colors) usually yields more predictable and controllable results compared to using pre-mixed colors. Pre-mixed pigments often result in a muted or grayish hue when combined due to the complex interplay of the various color compounds they contain.

While mixing organic and inorganic pigments or pigments from different manufacturers is feasible, it requires careful consideration. The presence of various additives in different pigments can lead to unexpected interactions, emphasizing the importance of patch testing to ascertain the actual outcome of the mix.

Water tests may provide some initial clues about the compatibility and stability of a pigment mix. However, they're not definitive. Immediate separation in water suggests potential instability in the skin, but the absence of separation doesn't guarantee stability. Therefore, while water tests can be informative, they should not be the basis for assessing pigment mixes.

Choosing the right color mix is highly personal and should be customized to suit each individual's skin type and undertones. Adding a warmer tone like orange can help neutralize the bluish hue of skin with visible capillaries. Conversely, red pigments might be counterproductive for individuals with naturally reddish undertones. Iron Oxide Yellow is often used as a mono-color corrector, effectively adjusting and balancing colors. A popular and tested color combination for Powder Brows or Hairstrokes is a mix of Orange, Yellow, Magenta, and Black, with Thermal or Channel Black (Carbon Black) being the preferred type of black pigment.

Ultimately, the key to successful pigment application and mixing lies in understanding the chemical properties of the pigments, the skin's reaction to different compounds, and each client's specific needs and characteristics. Artists can achieve optimal, beautiful, and enduring results by considering these factors and employing a thoughtful, personalized approach.