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Titanium dioxide (CI 77891)

Dec 21, 2023, Update: Dec 21, 2023, author: Hairstrokes.com / Holistic PMU
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"Is titanium dioxide the groundbreaking ingredient revolutionizing pigments, or is it infamously known as the “public enemy number one” in permanent makeup? To unravel this mystery, we need a balanced and rational examination. Our article explores the complexities and realities of titanium dioxide in PMU, separating fact from fiction and providing a comprehensive understanding of its role and impact. "

1. Background


Titanium dioxide, often called CI 77891, is a topic of interest for many Powder Brows artists. To explore this subject in-depth, we sought insights from 16 leading Powder Brows artists, who are among the top earners in their field, representing the top 19% in income. These artists primarily work in European Union countries, with three based in the UK and two in the US.

Their extensive experience and input from a dermatologist and two chemists offer a comprehensive understanding of titanium dioxide. There was significant agreement among these professionals on the characteristics and impact of this substance, underlining its importance in the field of semi-permanent makeup.

2. Basics of titanium dioxide


Titanium dioxide, also known as "Titan White," Titanium(IV) oxide, or CI 77891, is a white inorganic compound widely utilized in various industries. Its applications range from cosmetics and food coloring to paints and more.

Origin and Production

Titanium dioxide is extracted from the earth's crust, primarily from minerals like ilmenite, rutile, and anatase. These minerals are mined from global sand deposits and rock formations, including regions like Australia, Canada, South Africa, and Ukraine. Ilmenite is the most common source of titanium dioxide. Often, titanium dioxide is produced as a by-product of mining activities, highlighting its prevalence and importance in various industries.

3. How is titanium dioxide made


Titanium dioxide is produced through various processes, including the sulfate and chloride processes and methods for creating nanostructured titanium dioxide.

Sulfate Process


  • This older method starts with mixing ilmenite (FeTiO3) with sulfuric acid.
  • Iron(II) sulfate, a by-product, is crystallized and filtered.
  • The remaining titanium sulfate is hydrolyzed to form hydrated titanium dioxide, which is then heated to form titanium dioxide crystals, either anatase or rutile, depending on the temperature.

Chloride Process


  • A more modern and efficient method, the chloride process requires high-grade rutile ore.
  • Titanium dioxide is reduced with carbon and then chlorinated.
  • Liquid titanium tetrachloride (TiCl4) is distilled and oxidized in a pure oxygen flame or plasma at high temperatures to revert to titanium dioxide.
  • This process is known for producing a purer and higher quality product.

Production of Nanostructured Titanium Dioxide


  • It involves evaporating TiCl4 and mixing it with air and hydrogen.
  • The mixture is heated at high temperatures, converting TiCl4 to titanium dioxide.
  • The resulting titanium dioxide consists of nanoparticles that are invisible to the naked eye and maintain transparency when suspended in liquid or coated onto glass.

Each process has its own environmental considerations and produces titanium dioxide with different characteristics suitable for various applications.

The particle size of titanium dioxide

The particle size of titanium dioxide (CI 77891) in powder brows and hairstrokes pigments plays a significant role in determining its effectiveness in these applications.

Particle Size Range. In pigmentation, the particle size of titanium dioxide typically ranges from 200 nm to 350 nm. In some instances, it can even reach 400-500 nm, although the common size is often between 200-250 nm. This size range contrasts sharply with the much smaller size of nanostructured titanium dioxide particles, which can be as small as 21 nm.

  • Optimal Light Scattering. The larger particle size of titanium dioxide in pigments is purposeful. It provides optimal visible light scattering, crucial for achieving high opacity and brightness. These characteristics are particularly important in pigmentation applications, where strong coverage and a bright, vivid color are desired.
  • Purity and Quality Considerations. The quality of titanium dioxide varies based on its processing and the raw materials. High purity is crucial, especially in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, to avoid undesirable side effects from impurities.
  • Special Processing for Specific Uses. In some applications, titanium dioxide undergoes further processing. It might be coated with silica or alumina to enhance dispersion in particular mediums. In cosmetics, achieving the right particle size and shape is key for effective skin coverage and reducing the risk of skin irritation.

Converting titanium dioxide from a naturally occurring mineral to a fine powder suitable for cosmetics and pigmentation involves a series of extraction and purification steps.

4. Where is titanium dioxide used


Due to its whitening properties, titanium dioxide (E171 in Europe or as a "color additive" in the US) is widely used in various products. Here are some common places where you can find it:

Food Products and Sweets


  • Candies, especially white or brightly colored ones.
  • Icings on cakes, cookies, and donuts.
  • Chewing gum for its white color.
  • Pre-packaged snacks like chips and crackers for color stabilization.
  • Dairy products like yogurt, cheese, and dairy-based coffee creamers.

Note: As of January 2022, the European Commission banned using titanium dioxide (E171) in food. Post-August 2022, such products can be sold until their expiry date. California and New York US states are also considering a similar ban.

    Personal Care Products and Cosmetics

    • Toothpaste, for its bright white color.
    • Physical sunscreens reflect UV rays.

    Makeup products include foundation, powder, and lipstick for sun protection or coloring.

    Other Household Items


    • Paints to provide a bright white base.
    • Plastic items like utensils and furniture for coloration and durability.
    • High-quality paper for a smoother and whiter appearance.

    Despite its widespread use, the safety of titanium dioxide, particularly in nano-form, is under ongoing research. Some countries are reassessing the safety of food products.

    5. Positive of titanium dioxide


    • Enhanced Longevity. Titanium dioxide increases the reflectivity of pigments, leading to longer-lasting color stability. This helps prevent the pigment from shifting into undesirable hues, especially lip and eyebrow pigments.
    • Stable and Bright Colors. Pigments with titanium dioxide are reported to produce more stable, vivid results. Aside from the white provided by titanium dioxide, the pigment's colors tend to remain stable in the skin, ensuring consistent color over time. This particularly benefits eyeliner and lip coloring, where brighter, enduring results are desired.
    • Predictable Fading. Pigments containing titanium dioxide fade more predictably and evenly. As they lighten, the ratio of white titanium dioxide molecules to colored molecules changes, leading to a clear and consistent fading process. This gradual lightening is due to the extended presence of titanium dioxide in the skin.
    • High Refractive Index. The high refractive index of titanium dioxide scatters light effectively, making the pigment appear brighter and more opaque. This allows for achieving true-to-tone color in fewer passes and prevents the pigment from appearing dull or bleached.
    • Chemical Stability. Chemically, titanium dioxide is a stable compound that doesn't react easily with other elements, preserving the pigment's original color and affecting its metabolization in the skin. It demonstrates low solubility in water, as seen when pigments containing titanium dioxide separate and settle when poured into water.
    • Temperature Influence. Titanium dioxide can lend a cool undertone to the pigment, which is crucial when selecting pigments for a specific final appearance in semi-permanent makeup.

    6. Negative of titanium dioxide


    • Longer Retention in Skin. Titanium dioxide persists in the dermal layers, unlike other colorants that fade over time. Its long-term retention can be a concern, especially when pigment changes are desired.
    • Resistance to Fading. The physical and chemical properties of titanium dioxide make it less susceptible to the mechanisms that typically cause pigments to fade, such as UV radiation and the body's immune response. Its larger particle size and high refractive index make it more visible and harder to break down.
    • Challenges in Removal. Titanium dioxide is resistant to conventional laser removal methods. Its high refractive index makes it less absorbent to laser treatments, which can cause pigments containing titanium dioxide to darken instead of being eliminated.
    • Carcinogenic Concerns. While titanium dioxide is classified as a possible carcinogen (Group 2B) by the IARC, this primarily concerns inhalation in industrial settings. However, the risks associated with its use in semi-permanent makeup pigments, particularly through inhalation during application, should not be overlooked.
    • Concentration in Lip Pigments. A high titanium dioxide concentration in lip pigments can benefit lighter or nude effects but may not be optimal for darker skin types. Dermatologists caution against its use in high concentrations on darker skin, as it may lead to undesirable healing outcomes, like lips healing to a black color.
    • Not Ideal for Dark Skin. Titanium dioxide is often less suitable for darker skin types (Fitzpatrick types 5 and 6). The pigment's properties can result in unexpected and unwanted color changes during healing.

    7. Titanium dioxide in brow pigments


    Using titanium dioxide in brow pigments is often deemed unnecessary by many professionals. Here's why.

      • Purpose of Titanium Dioxide. Titanium dioxide is primarily used to lighten the tone of pigments. Brow pigmentation aims to match or enhance the natural brow color rather than lighten it. Adding titanium dioxide can "dilute" the intended color, making the result appear lighter than desired.
      • Healing Concerns. After the pigment application, as the skin undergoes its natural healing process, the organic components of the pigment fade or metabolize. This leaves the inorganic titanium dioxide particles behind, which can lead to a patchy and uneven light gray shade in the brows.
      • Undesirable Appearance. The remaining titanium dioxide can give the eyebrows a "light dirty grayish" look. It resembles a black color veiled with a semi-transparent film, resembling soap residue. This effect can create an uneven appearance, with some areas appearing darker and more prominent.
      • Professional Preference. Due to these reasons, many brow pigmentation professionals prefer not to use pigments containing titanium dioxide. They opt for formulations that align more closely with the natural brow color and heal more predictably, avoiding the potential patchiness and lightening effect caused by titanium dioxide.

        While titanium dioxide is used in certain cosmetic applications, its role in brow pigments is considered unnecessary and potentially problematic, particularly regarding the healing process and final appearance.

        8. Nanoparticles vs. pigment particles


        When discussing titanium dioxide in semi-permanent pigments, understanding the differences in particle sizes is crucial:

        • Nanoparticle Size. In its nanoparticle form, titanium dioxide particles typically range from 10 to 100 nanometers. Nanoparticles are so small that they might interact with biological tissues uniquely, raising concerns about their safety.
        • Pigment Particle Size. In contrast, the titanium dioxide particles used in semi-permanent makeup pigments are considerably larger, usually around 200-250 nanometers and sometimes up to 400-500 nanometers. This significant size difference changes how these particles interact with the body.
        • Safety Concerns. The concerns about the carcinogenicity of titanium dioxide mostly pertain to its nanoparticle form. These smaller particles have different properties and potential health risks compared to the larger particles used in pigments.
        • Ongoing Research. As of January 2022, research on the safety of titanium dioxide in various forms is ongoing. This includes investigations into its potential links to diseases like inflammatory bowel disease and colorectal cancer. However, these concerns have not been conclusively connected to the larger particle forms used in semi-permanent makeup.
        • Marketing and Misinformation. Marketing that labels titanium dioxide as categorically "carcinogenic" may not accurately represent the current scientific understanding. It's essential to differentiate between the potential risks associated with nanoparticles and the larger particles used in pigments.

        While there is legitimate concern about the safety of titanium dioxide nanoparticles, these concerns don't necessarily apply to the larger particles used in semi-permanent makeup pigments. It's important to consider the differences in particle size and the ongoing nature of scientific research in this area.

        9. Removal of titanium dioxide


        The removal of titanium dioxide in semi-permanent makeup pigments often requires specific techniques, as traditional laser removal methods may not be effective. Here's a summary of the best practices for removing titanium dioxide.

        • Chemical Removal System. The most effective approach for removing titanium dioxide involves using various acids and salts. These substances are designed to break down the granulated pigment particles in the skin, facilitating their removal.
        • Multiple Sessions Required. The removal process typically requires multiple sessions to achieve optimal results. The number of treatments needed varies depending on several factors, including the intensity of the makeup, the type of pigment used, and the depth of its application in the skin.
        • Post-Removal Reactions. After a removal session, it's common to observe some skin bleaching. This reaction occurs due to the release of gas when the pigment is heated during the removal process.
        • Frequency of Sessions. Each removal session can be repeated after a minimum interval of six weeks. This interval allows the skin to recover and respond adequately to subsequent treatments.
        • Effectiveness Across Color Spectrum. One of the significant advantages of chemical removal methods is their effectiveness across a broader range of colors. Unlike laser removal, which is primarily effective on black, red, and gray pigments, chemical removers can effectively tackle very dark pigmentation, including those containing titanium dioxide.
        • Limitations of Laser Removal. Traditional laser removal techniques have limited effectiveness on pigments containing titanium dioxide. This is due to the unique properties of titanium dioxide, which make it resistant to absorption by laser treatments.

        10. Marketing aspects


        In the world of semi-permanent makeup (PMU), the debate over the use of titanium dioxide in pigments is often influenced by marketing strategies and biases of various producers and artists. Understanding the nuances of this debate requires a critical and balanced approach. Here's a summary of the key points:

        • Longevity in the Body. Titanium dioxide is known for its longer retention in the body than other PMU substances. This characteristic is not unique to titanium dioxide; other chemicals and colorants used in PMU share similar properties.
        • Critical Approach to Claims. It's essential to maintain a critical perspective when encountering claims about pigments, whether pro or anti-titanium dioxide. Both sides of the argument may have financial incentives influencing their stance.
        • Pro-Titanium Dioxide Argument. Advocates of titanium dioxide often highlight its benefits, such as brighter and more vibrant results. They might downplay the negatives and criticize other colorants.
        • Anti-Titanium Dioxide Argument. Opponents of titanium dioxide may label it a lower quality or potentially harmful option, sometimes overstating claims about its carcinogenicity. This perspective often stems from the smaller nanoparticle form of titanium dioxide, which differs from the larger particles used in PMU pigments.
        • Balanced Perspective. Titanium dioxide is not the sole problematic element in PMU pigments. Other substances, including carbon and metals, can pose risks in certain forms or sizes. While titanium dioxide does stay longer in the body, it's not inherently harmful in the context of PMU. Both artists and clients should know its longevity and plan accordingly for touch-ups or removal.
        • Informed Decision-Making. Understanding the properties and implications of titanium dioxide in PMU allows artists and clients to make informed decisions. It's crucial to weigh its use's benefits and potential drawbacks in pigmentation work.

        11. Conclusions


        Titanium dioxide, CI 77891, is a widely used inorganic colorant derived from Earth's crust minerals. This white compound, with particle sizes around 300 nm, is a common ingredient in everyday products, including food items, personal care products, and semi-permanent makeup pigments.

        In the food industry, despite its ban in the EU for use in food products, titanium dioxide continues to be a prevalent colorant in other parts of the world. It is found in sweets, chips, cheese, yogurt, toothpaste, and sunscreens, contributing to their white appearance.

        Titanium dioxide offers several benefits.

        • Longevity. It enhances the durability of pigments, ensuring the color remains vibrant over time.
        • Stable, Brighter Colors. It contributes to the stability and brightness of colors in pigments.
        • Predictable Fading- The gradual fading process with titanium dioxide is more uniform, allowing consistent color change over time.

        However, there are notable downsides.

        • Long Retention in the Skin. Titanium dioxide persists longer in the skin than other colorants, which may be a concern during removal processes.
        • Resistance to Laser Removal. Its resistance to conventional laser removal techniques can pose challenges in pigment removal.
        • Health Concerns. There are semantic debates regarding its health effects, with some claims labeling it as carcinogenic. These concerns primarily arise from its use in nanoparticle form, which differs from the larger particles used in pigments.

        While titanium dioxide is more challenging to remove than other pigments, specialized chemical removers have proven effective in its elimination. Its long retention in the skin is an important consideration and should be discussed with clients when using pigments containing this substance.

        Therefore, titanium dioxide is a component in semi-permanent makeup pigments with specific attributes and considerations. While it doesn't pose significantly worse health effects than other substances used in pigments, its characteristics, especially its longer retention time, are important factors to consider in professional PMU practice.
         
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