Skin types

Holistic Approach to Semi-Permanent Makeup (PMU)

The Role of Biology in Understanding Skin Types

Chemistry and Pigment Interaction

Physics: Understanding Application Mechanics

Psychology: Managing Expectations and Perceptions

Key Skin Types

• Normal Skin. Balanced in nature, ideal for pigmentation.
• Dry Skin. Characterized by less natural oil, leading to a drier appearance.
• Oily Skin. Prone to excess sebum production, affecting pigment application.
• Combination Skin. A mix of dry and oily areas requires a tailored approach.
• Sensitive Skin. Reacts easily to external factors and pigmentation.
• Mature Skin. Thinner and more delicate, with specific aging characteristics.
• Vascular Skin. Marked by visible capillaries and vascular issues.
• Dehydrated Skin. Lacking moisture impacts pigment retention and healing.

Determining Factors in Pigmentation

• Melanin Concentration. A crucial factor influencing skin color and its reaction to UV exposure. Darker skin with higher melanin may alter the appearance of pigments and require careful selection. Lighter skin offers a clearer canvas but is more vulnerable to UV damage.
• Keratin. This protein, crucial for skin structure, can affect oily skin conditions and pigment receptivity. Disruptions in skin turnover, influenced by systemic issues like insulin resistance, can lead to hyperkeratosis, affecting pigmentation.
• Hemoglobin Levels. Hemoglobin impacts skin tone and health. Variations in skin oxygenation levels can affect the color and healing process in pigmentation procedures.

Exploring Normal Skin

Characteristics of Normal Skin

• Appearance. Normal skin typically has a pinkish-clear complexion, indicating good health and proper care. This appearance is a sign of adequate hydration and nourishment.
• Sebum Production. The sebaceous glands in normal skin function optimally, producing just the right amount of sebum. This balance ensures that issues like excessive shine, blackheads, or enlarged pores are less likely to occur.

Texture and Elasticity

• Smooth Texture. One of the defining qualities of normal skin is its smoothness, which is aesthetically pleasing and ideal for pigmentation procedures.
• Elasticity. Good elasticity in normal skin results from a healthy balance between collagen and elastin. These proteins are crucial for maintaining the skin's firmness and flexibility, allowing it to respond well to various treatments.

Reactivity to Procedures

• Normal skin is less prone to irritation, making it adaptable to various pigmentation procedures. This reduces the risk of adverse reactions significantly.
• Pigment Absorption and Retention
• Effective Absorption. Normal skin absorbs pigments during pigmentation effectively, ensuring the color is deposited as intended.
• Retention. Post-healing, normal skin retains a significant amount of the pigment. This retention is key to achieving long-lasting and consistent results, especially in procedures like powder brows and hairstrokes.

Practical Implications for Artists

• Ideal Canvas. Many artists prefer working with normal skin for procedures like powder brows and hairstrokes. The skin's natural characteristics make it easier to achieve desired results, such as precise pixelation, which remains intact in the skin.
• Reduced Risks. With normal skin, the risks of pigment migration and blurring, common in techniques like microblading, are notably reduced. This makes the process more predictable and the outcomes more reliable.

Understanding Dry Skin in Pigmentation Procedures

Key Characteristics of Dry Skin

• Reduced Sebum Production. Dry skin produces less natural oil, resulting in a lack of moisture and a characteristically dry appearance.
• Visibility of Wrinkles. Due to poor hydration, dry skin is more prone to early wrinkle formation, often giving it a dull and thin appearance.
• Lack of Radiance and Peeling. This skin type may lack a healthy glow and is susceptible to flaking or peeling.
• Irritation and Sensitivity. Dry skin can be more susceptible to irritation, especially after makeup removal or exposure to harsh environmental conditions.
• Absence of Dilated Pores. Unlike oily skin, dry skin typically does not exhibit visibly dilated pores but may display a network of dilated blood vessels.

Pigmentation Procedures on Dry Skin

• Working Conditions. The absence of issues like redness and plasma oozing during the procedure generally makes working on dry skin straightforward.
• Pigment Spread and Visibility. Pigment spreads well on dry skin, and pixelation is often clearly visible, making it conducive for detailed work.
• Technique Adaptation. Employing a gentle and layered approach is beneficial. Dry skin absorbs pigment quickly, reducing the need for multiple layers.
• Post-Procedure Healing. Dry skin typically heals without major complications but may require longer healing than other skin types. Its thin nature often leads to high rates of pigment retention and color preservation.
• Suitability for Specific Techniques. Due to its texture and healing properties, dry skin is well-suited for techniques like hair stroking.

Considerations for Clients with Dry Skin

• Medical Conditions and Skin State Assessment. It’s important to ascertain whether the dryness is temporary or linked to a medical issue, as this can affect pigment exfoliation and color consistency post-healing.
• Customized Care and Preparation. Pre-treatment care, including moisturizing and using soothing products, can significantly enhance the outcomes for clients with dry skin. Proper preparation ensures the skin is in the best condition for pigmentation procedures.

The Unique Appeal of "Unicorn" Models

Defining Characteristics of Unicorn Models

• Skin Type. Typically, these models have normal or dry skin, often accompanied by freckles. Their skin is fairly light, indicating a lower concentration of melanin.
• Hair and Eye Color. Commonly, they possess light-colored hair, such as blond or red, and light-colored eyes. The lighter or red hair often signifies an overall lower melanin concentration.
• Genetic Aspects. Variations in the MC1R gene, which influences skin and hair color, further enhance their suitability as models for semi-permanent makeup.
• Aesthetic Appeal. These individuals often have aesthetically pleasing facial features, which, combined with their skin and hair traits, make them excellent subjects for portfolio images.

Why Are They Called "Unicorn" Models?

• Rarity. Such individuals are rare, hence the nickname "unicorn." They provide an excellent opportunity for artists to showcase their work, especially in before-and-after portfolios.
• Marketing Value. The striking difference seen in before and after images of such models can serve as powerful marketing tools for artists.

Scientific Basis for Their Suitability

• Melanin Concentration. The lower melanin levels in their skin result in a lighter skin tone, creating a stark contrast when pigments used in semi-permanent makeup are applied. This contrast enhances the visibility and vividness of the pigments.
• Pigment Visibility. Due to less natural melanin, the pigments don't blend as much with the existing skin tone, retaining their intended hue more faithfully. The clarity of pixelation and lines in procedures like microblading is more pronounced in such skin types.

Approaching Unicorn Models

Navigating Pigmentation Procedures on Oily Skin

Characteristics of Oily Skin

• Increased Sebum Production. Oily skin produces more sebum than needed, resulting in a shiny appearance. This often comes with blackheads, enlarged pores, and a greyish complexion.
• Resilience to External Factors. Oily skin handles makeup removal and environmental conditions effectively due to its elasticity and thickness.
• Aging and Wrinkles. This skin type is slower to show signs of aging and wrinkle formation. However, when wrinkles do develop, they tend to be deeper.

Challenges in Pigmentation

• Difficulty in Pigment Implantation. Implanting pigment in oily skin can be challenging, with extreme cases making the process nearly impossible. Post-healing, the pigment may take on a cool tint and fade more rapidly than in other skin types.
• Reactive Nature During Procedure. Oily skin can show defensive reactions like bleeding and redness, which may push out the pigment, resulting in poor retention.

Pigmentation Techniques for Oily Skin

• Layered, Gentle Approach. A gentle pigmentation process, done in layers at a lower speed, helps manage the reactive nature of oily skin.
• Pigment Selection and Application. Using warmer shades with a yellow modifier can help balance the cool tint imparted by oily skin. Building up color intensity through multiple layers is more effective than deeper pigmentation.
• Handling Visibility Challenges. The presence of an "orange peel" texture may make it difficult to discern pixels and gradients. Stretching the skin firmly can help in these cases.
• Technique Adjustments for Organic Pigments. Organic pigments call for a swift procedure with shorter strokes, particularly with high-stroke range devices, to prevent visible dots or pigment deposits post-healing.

Post-Procedure Care and Healing

• Managing Plasma Exudation. It's important to address plasma exudation post-procedure to prevent thick scab formation.
• Color Development Post-Exfoliation. After the scab exfoliates, the pigment might appear light initially but usually intensifies over time.
• Challenges with Inorganic and Mineral Pigments
• Complexities in Implantation: The implantation of mineral or inorganic pigments in oily skin can be so difficult that it might not be justifiable. There is a risk of skin damage without effective pigment deposition.
• Consideration of "First, Do No Harm": Due to these challenges, many experienced artists adhere to the "first, not harm" principle and may choose not to perform the procedure on clients with very oily skin.

Characteristics of Combination Skin

• T-Zone Greasiness. The T-zone, comprising the forehead, nose, and chin, tends to be oily in combination skin, leading to increased sebum production, shine, and potential pore enlargement.
• Dryness in Other Facial Areas. Contrasting with the oily T-zone, other facial areas might be dry, lacking sebum, and displaying dry skin traits like flakiness or tightness.
• Reactivity to External Factors. This skin type often has a varied response to makeup removal, cosmetics, and environmental factors, necessitating careful product selection.

Subtypes of Combination Skin

• Combination-Oily. This subtype is characterized by a predominantly oily T-zone with occasional dry patches.
• Combination-Dry. In this subtype, the skin is mostly dry, with the T-zone being oily.

Procedure Considerations for Combination Skin

• Pigmentation Difficulty. Working with combination skin can be more challenging than normal or dry skin types, but it is generally more manageable than purely oily skin.
• Procedure Response. Combination skin usually has a more balanced response during pigmentation procedures, showing moderate bleeding, oozing, and redness.
• Pigment Penetration and Visibility. Pigment application in combination with skin is relatively effective, with good visibility of pixelation. However, slightly cooling the color post-procedure is a consideration when choosing pigments.
• Technique Adaptation. Adjusting the pigmentation technique for different facial areas is important. Oily zones may require a different approach than the drier areas to achieve even results.

Post-Procedure Care and Healing

• Balanced Care. Aftercare for combination skin should address both the oily and dry aspects. This may involve using different skincare products or application methods for various parts of the face.
• Monitoring Color Development. Observing the development of the pigment during the healing phase is crucial to ensure that the desired outcome is achieved, particularly in terms of color accuracy.

Characteristics of Sensitive Skin

• Reactivity to Various Factors. Sensitive skin is particularly reactive to hormonal shifts, emotional changes, environmental conditions, and skincare products.
• Common Symptoms. Those with sensitive skin frequently experience symptoms like redness, a burning sensation, itching, slight swelling, and a feeling of excessive warmth, indicating a heightened response mechanism.
• Sensitivity to External Factors. This skin type tends to react strongly to external factors, especially temperature changes. Routine actions such as skin disinfection can easily trigger redness.
• Allergy Susceptibility. There is often an increased likelihood of allergic reactions with sensitive skin, especially when exposed to certain anesthetics or pigments.

Procedure Considerations for Sensitive Skin

• Gentle Approach. Employing an extremely delicate technique is crucial to minimize irritation and potential allergic reactions.
• Pre-Procedure Testing. Due to the high allergy susceptibility, conducting patch tests with anesthetics and pigments is essential to identify any adverse reactions before the procedure.
• Temperature and Environmental Control. Maintaining a comfortable and stable environment during the procedure is important to reduce skin reactivity, including controlling the room temperature and avoiding exposure to heat sources or drafts.

Post-Procedure Care and Healing

• Aftercare Adaptation. Tailoring the post-procedure care to minimize irritation and promote the skin's recovery is key. This might include the use of hypoallergenic and soothing skincare products.
• Monitoring for Adverse Reactions. Close monitoring after the procedure is essential to address any allergic reactions or increased skin sensitivity quickly.

Characteristics and Considerations for Mature Skin

• Physical Properties. Mature skin often shows signs of being flabby, dry, and dehydrated compared to younger skin. It tends to be thinner and more fragile, making it more prone to vascular issues.
• Regeneration and Restructuring. The natural processes of regeneration and restructuring in the skin slow down with age. This factor is crucial when planning post-procedure appointments and recovery, as mature skin typically requires a longer healing period, about 8-10 weeks.
• Pigment Retention and Saturation. This skin type absorbs and retains a significant amount of pigment quickly, necessitating fewer pigment layers and a very light and delicate application technique.
• Pigment Selection. Choosing pigments that are gentler in composition is recommended. It's often beneficial to select a pigment shade 1-2 tones lighter than desired, considering the reduced ability of mature skin to hold pigment effectively.
• Vascular Concerns. Due to the thinning of the skin and increased fragility of blood vessels, vascular issues are more common. Addressing this involves using specific pigments, such as those with an olive base, to complement the skin's undertones.

Variations Within Mature Skin

• Subtypes. Recognizing that mature skin can also fall into subcategories like sensitive, vascular, and dehydrated is important. Each of these subtypes requires a tailored approach.
• Combination Possibilities. Like other skin types, mature skin can exhibit a combination of characteristics, such as oily yet dehydrated or dry yet vascular.

Pigmentation Techniques for Mature Skin

• Gentle Application. Given mature skin's increased fragility and reduced elasticity, the pigmentation process should be conducted with the utmost care to minimize skin trauma and facilitate better healing.
• Post-Procedure Care. The focus should be on hydrating and soothing the skin post-procedure. Utilizing products specifically formulated for sensitive or mature skin can help reduce potential inflammation and aid healing.

Causes and Characteristics of Dehydrated Skin

• Impaired Epidermal Barrier. Often, dehydrated skin has a compromised barrier, leading to increased water loss and reduced hydration. This can be due to both external and internal factors.
• External and Lifestyle Factors. Dehydration is often exacerbated by inadequate fluid intake, excessive removal of natural skin oils, over-cleansing, and strong mattifying cosmetics. Environmental conditions like extended exposure to air conditioning, frequent sunbathing, and artificial tanning further aggravate dehydration.
• Medication and Stimulant Impact. Certain medications, especially those for acne, can intensify skin dehydration. Habits like smoking and alcohol consumption also significantly deplete skin moisture.

Procedure Considerations for Dehydrated Skin

• Pre-Treatment Skin Preparation. Addressing the skin's hydration needs before any pigmentation procedure is important. This could involve advising clients to increase their water intake and use hydrating skincare products.
• Adjusting Procedure Techniques. Considering the skin's increased sensitivity and propensity for irritation, gentle techniques and minimizing trauma during pigmentation are recommended.
• Pigment Absorption and Healing. Dehydrated skin may react differently regarding pigment absorption and retention than well-hydrated skin. The healing process may also vary, requiring more attentive monitoring and potentially longer healing times.

Post-Procedure Care for Dehydrated Skin

• Enhanced Hydration and Protection. Aftercare should emphasize rehydrating the skin and reinforcing its barrier. Using products containing hydrating and soothing ingredients is beneficial.
• Lifestyle Adjustments. Clients with dehydrated skin may need to make lifestyle changes, such as reducing alcohol intake and limiting sun exposure, to improve their skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Characteristics and Causes of Vascular Skin

• Fragile Blood Vessels. The hallmark of vascular skin is the increased fragility of blood vessels, leading to redness and visible capillaries. This can result in quick bruising and prolonged redness following invasive procedures.
• Influential Factors. The development of vascular skin can be influenced by various factors, including hormonal activity, particularly estrogen, and inflammatory factors circulating in the bloodstream.
• Lifestyle and Stress Impact. External elements like unhealthy lifestyle choices, high-stress levels, and environmental stressors can exacerbate the symptoms associated with vascular skin.

Procedure Considerations for Vascular Skin

• Colorimetry in Pigment Selection. Choosing the right pigments is critical when dealing with vascular skin. Opting for pigments with green or olive bases helps effectively neutralize redness and balance the red hues typically seen in this skin type.
• Gentle Technique. The fragility of vascular skin requires a gentle approach during pigmentation to minimize pressure and trauma, thereby reducing the risk of excessive redness or bruising.
• Healing and Aftercare. Post-procedure, vascular skin can react intensely, necessitating careful aftercare to manage inflammation and aid healing. Soothing, anti-inflammatory skin care products are recommended to alleviate redness and facilitate recovery.

Extended Implications and Precautions

• Pre-Procedure Assessment. Conducting a thorough skin assessment before the procedure is essential to gauge the extent of vascular characteristics. This information is crucial in customizing the pigmentation technique and pigment choice.
• Monitoring Hormonal Influences. Additional considerations may be required for clients with hormonal influences that exacerbate vascular skin. Fluctuations in hormones can impact skin sensitivity and the healing process.
• Stress and Lifestyle Management. Advising clients on managing stress and adopting healthier lifestyle habits can help mitigate vascular skin symptoms, potentially improving pigmentation procedures' outcomes.

Normal Skin

Oily Skin

Dry Skin

Combination Skin

Sensitive Skin

Mature Skin

Dehydrated Skin

Vascular Skin