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1. Background

This article draws upon insights from interviews with 37 leading pigmentation artists, each skilled in at least two major brow services: microblading, powder brows, and hairstrokes. Among these professionals, 28 are based in countries within the European Union, 7 in the UK, and 2 in the US. The research projects incorporating their perspectives spanned from 2021 to 2023 and are largely still ongoing.

This article analyzes various brow pigmentation techniques, exploring their position in their respective lifespans. The following sections concentrate on this analysis, offering more detailed perspectives on the evolution and future trends in brow pigmentation at the current moment.

It Pays Off to Pay Attention to the Past

In "The Life of Reason: Reason in Common Sense," published in 1905, George Santayana wrote: "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.” The situation is similar now, and the ones who miss the moment will suffer. Let us first take a look at the history.

2. Microblading

The pigmentation industry witnessed an unprecedented revolution with the advent of microblading in 2014, marking a transformative shift in the world of semi-permanent makeup. This technique swiftly rose to dominance, rendering resistance from practitioners of traditional methods futile. The popularity and demand for microblading services experienced exponential growth, doubling monthly at certain phases.

Reasons for Extreme Success

Experts attribute microblading's exceptional success to various factors. For an extended period, the prevailing opinion was that microblading had minimal flaws, with strengths such as simplicity in learning, an affordable entrance cost, and a demand for natural-looking "pattern" brows.

Simplicity in Learning

While learning microblading presents challenges, its appeal lies in its perceived simplicity. Distinct from being easy, the learning experience varies widely among students. Challenges include accurate brow mapping, understanding colorimetry theory, mastering patterns, and dealing with procedure-related anxiety. Despite these challenges, the simplicity in learning made microblading an accessible skill, distinguishing it in the industry.

Cost Factors

The affordability of starting and maintaining a microblading practice significantly contributed to its popularity. It disrupted the semi-permanent makeup industry, known for its mystique and high costs. Microblading challenged the elitist perception by demonstrating effective results without prohibitive expenses. Its lower start-up costs, including blades and pigments, democratized the field, allowing younger artists to compete effectively. Microblading's alternative marketing structure emphasized skill over brand allegiance, transforming the industry irreversibly.

3. Demand for Natural “Lines"

The remarkable surge in microblading's popularity can be attributed to the market's readiness for a fresh approach to brow pigmentation. Customers were accustomed to heavily filled, dark brows from previous methods, often appearing unnatural by modern standards. The preference for more natural-looking brows created an optimal environment for microblading to thrive, with customers recognizing it as the superior choice for achieving subtle, lifelike results.

The technique arrived at a time when there was a clear shift in preference towards naturalness, playing a significant role in its rapid adoption. Microblading's recognition as the "new number one technique" led to a paradigm shift in brow aesthetics, setting a new standard for natural-looking enhancements and influencing broader trends in cosmetic treatments.

Evolutions in Microblading Technique

Despite its popularity, microblading faced challenges in how the lines healed. Lines often blended into a single color during the healing process, primarily due to the depth of blade penetration. This issue prompted professional practitioners to adjust their techniques, using a lighter touch and tapping methods. By 2016, these improvements resulted in sharper and more distinct lines, fulfilling the initial promises of microblading.

Nanoblading as a Term "Nanoblading" emerged as a marketing term for using finer needles in microblading. While not revolutionary, this incremental improvement represented a more refined technique, offering the potential for finer, more precise lines. This evolution contributed to ongoing popularity and client satisfaction.

Financial Triumph

Refinements in microblading techniques improved client satisfaction and paved the way for financial success for artists. Documented cases reveal some practitioners earning over $50,000 monthly from procedures, showcasing the significant impact of microblading on the beauty and semi-permanent makeup industry. The success extended to academies offering microblading training, creating multiple revenue streams, and enabling extravagant purchases, such as luxury vehicles.

4. Powder Brows

Long-Standing Presence and Steady Evolution

Powder Brows, deeply rooted in the history of semi-permanent makeup, has undergone significant evolution. Early versions of Powder Brows, reminiscent of tattooed brows from the latter half of the last century, differed considerably from today's refined techniques.

The emergence of microblading in the industry prompted traditional powder brows artists to adapt rapidly to an expanded, more competitive market. Unlike microblading, the evolution of powder brows was characterized by steady, incremental improvements over time rather than explosive growth or sudden popularity.

Key Developments in Powder Brows

Improved Shape. The focus shifted towards creating brow shapes that better complemented the client's facial features and skull structure. This approach emphasized personalized designs over one-size-fits-all solutions.
Refined Technique. Modern powder brow techniques are gentler, causing less discomfort and offering subtler, more natural-looking outcomes than earlier versions. This refinement has led to a more comfortable client experience and less intense results.
Innovations in Pigments. Advancements, particularly inorganic and mineral pigments, have allowed for a broader range of colors and shades. These pigments fade more naturally over time, contributing to the lighter and more natural appearance of Powder Brows. This shift has transformed Powder Brows from a "permanent" to a more "temporary" solution.
Reduced Pressure and Depth. Artists now apply less pressure during the procedure, leading to quicker healing times and more pigment in the papillary dermis. This reduction in pressure has made the process less painful for clients, further enhancing the client-friendly nature of Powder Brows.

These developments have transformed Powder Brows from a painful, permanent-looking procedure into a more client-friendly, adaptable, semi-permanent technique.

5. Ombre Powder Brows

Evolution of Terminology

While there is no technical difference, "Powder Brows" has evolved with various prefixes. The most recognized globally is "Ombre Powder Brows" or "Ombre Brows." Some practitioners claim differences in the gradient and dusty effect of "ombre powder," but these distinctions are subjective and often used for marketing.

Soft Ombre Brows

A trend toward softer and lighter powdering led to the development of a style called "Soft Ombre Brows" or "Soft Powder Brows." This softer approach is typically applied to the brow head and upper arch.

The universality of Powder Brows

The strength of powder brows lies in their universality. Suitable for any skin type and age, powder brows require reasonably low intervention. Previous brow treatments do not hinder excellent results. The versatility of powder brows, especially with a skilled artist, remains a key aspect.

6. Combo Brows

Adaptation and Fusion

Combo Brows emerged as powder brow artists adapted by learning microblading techniques to stay competitive. They go beyond microblading and powder brows, encompassing a fusion of various pigmentation techniques.

Addressing Limitations

Combo Brows address microblading limitations, especially in retention on thick and oily skin. The machine technique adds more pigment, enhancing longevity and mitigating blurring issues. This approach combines the precision of microblading with the soft, diffused effect of machine-applied powder.

Balanced Aesthetic

Combo Brows offers a balanced and natural makeup appearance by blending microblading's crisp definition with powder brows's fuller, shaded effect. This adaptability makes Combo Brows popular for comprehensive solutions catering to diverse skin types and aesthetic preferences.

7. Hairstrokes

Developmental Shifts

Hairstrokes, a pigmentation technique that has existed for almost as long as powder brows, have undergone significant developmental shifts. They can be broadly categorized into two eras: the primitive phase and the era of hyperrealism.

Primitive Phase - "Fences" Pattern

In the initial stages, Hairstrokes development featured the "fences pattern," a rudimentary approach where artists, mainly from the powder brows background, used machines to create straight, vertical lines within the brows. This approach lacked sophistication, resulting in unnatural shapes and unappealing outcomes.

Era of Hyperrealism

Years later, a new wave of Hairstrokes emerged, led by skilled powder brows artists with strong artistic capabilities. This trend gained traction in Asian countries, followed by Europe and Russia. Artists mastered creating brows closely mimicking natural hair growth, achieving hyperrealism. While termed "nano brows," this term lacked meaning. Various needle configurations and nozzle needles contributed to hyperrealistic results, resembling natural brows.

Critique of Hyperrealism

Despite achieving remarkable naturalism, the pursuit of extreme hyperrealism led to overly natural brows resembling overgrown ones. Experienced artists noted that while artistically impressive, these brows didn't always optimally enhance the client's features, creating a hesitation among typical clients to adopt such a look.

8. The Situation in 2024

Reflection on Micro blading's Journey

As we approach 2024, reflecting on the journey of microblading and other brow techniques provides insightful conclusions about current trends.

Micro blading's Trajectory Changes

Described by many artists as "a ride of a lifetime," microblading's trajectory has undergone significant changes. The slowing down of its growth in 2020-2022 and eventual decline since 2022 was not merely due to the blurriness of the lines. It stemmed from a more fundamental issue – the damage caused by linear wounds to the papillary dermis. Dermatological research indicates that these wounds adversely affect the collagen network, leading to micro-scarring and altering the skin's ability to accommodate new pigment particles.

Practical Dilemma and Limitations

Despite efforts to control depth and use thin blades, suitable skin, and pigments with lower organic hydrocarbon content, the lines became blurry after 3-5 retouches (usually in 1.5-2 years). This presented a practical dilemma, as compromised brows often had to transition to powder brows and undergo removal via saline or laser treatments. The challenge of a perpetual retouching cycle (PRC) became evident, leading to an inevitable problem and potential conflict between artists and clients. Skilled practitioners faced growing challenges in providing the best service, highlighting a limitation within the industry.

Addressing the Challenge

Previously obscured by a continuous influx of new customers, this challenge prompted artists to manage clients with visible issues by transitioning them to other treatments. While accepted as a workaround, there seemed to be no better alternative, and little incentive existed to highlight this limitation within the industry.

The Third Wave of Hairstrokes

The year 2023, particularly its second half, marked a pivotal shift in the brow pigmentation industry. Dedicated microblading artists, after years of perfecting their craft, initiated a breakthrough by creating "combo brows without the blade." This method, adopted across Asia, Europe, and Latin America, shifted the focus from hyperrealistic, overgrown brows to a more commercially appealing "groomed" brow look. Notably, they used the pigmentation machine as their primary tool, blending various methods for enhanced results.

Significance of Development

Analyzing the current scenario reveals the significance of this development. The microblading market, oversaturated and craving innovation, welcomed the third wave of hairstrokes as a much-needed breakthrough. Industry leaders recognize this shift and are strategically preparing for a comprehensive transition to the Hairstrokes technique. While there is an initial assertion that microblading still holds advantages, this is perceived as a tactical move to buy time for reorganizing and redirecting resources.

Transition Challenges

The challenge in 2024 is to smoothly transition skilled microblading artists and trainers to Hairstrokes without causing significant disruptions or conflicts within the community. Industry leaders acknowledge the shift and are strategically recalibrating their approaches, reflecting a substantial turn towards pigmentation, especially hairstrokes, and away from microblading.

Dream of Abundance

Despite holding onto the dream of "borderless pigmentation," empirical research suggests a different reality. Microblading is declining, and the trend analysis indicates an inevitable shift towards the third wave of hairstrokes. Clients seeking the best technique for their brows are evolving in their preferences, and the majority, based on studies, now prefer hairstrokes.

Impact on Artists

Artists skilled in the second wave of hairstrokes are poised for substantial success, possessing a relevant skill set that requires minimal adjustment. Powder brows artists face a significant learning curve to master hairstrokes effectively but will likely embrace the challenge motivated by market demand and potential earnings. The evolving preferences of clients drive the move towards hairstrokes, indicating a significant industry evolution.

9. Conclusions

While the idealistic vision of a unified approach to brow pigmentation is appealing, the reality in 2024 is moving toward the third wave of hairstrokes. This shift represents a significant evolution in brow pigmentation techniques, reshaping the industry landscape and client choices. Speed is crucial in navigating the turbulence of this transformative period. Here are the key points from this article.

Microblading's Evolution. Initially celebrated for its simplicity and affordability, microblading has undergone transformations to address healing challenges. The emergence of nanoblading, utilizing finer needles, reflects a move towards precision. Artists should focus on mastering lighter touch techniques to enhance line clarity and client satisfaction.
The Rise of Powder and Ombre Brows. Powder brows, known for their versatility and suitability for various skin types, have evolved into softer, more natural-looking outcomes. Ombre powder brows, particularly the "Soft Ombre" style, offer a gentler approach. Artists are advised to adapt to these subtler techniques, ensuring personalized, natural results for clients.
Combo Brows as a Comprehensive Solution. Combining microblading with powder techniques, combo brows address limitations found in individual methods. This fusion offers a balanced aesthetic, suitable for diverse client needs. Artists should consider integrating these techniques to provide versatile, long-lasting results.
Hairstrokes Development and the Third Wave. The shift towards hyperrealism in hairstrokes, moving away from the primitive "fences" pattern, marks a significant development. The third wave, focusing on a "groomed" brow look using pigmentation machines, is gaining traction. Artists should embrace this wave, refining their skills in machine-based methods for enhanced naturalism.
Future Directions. As we are in 2024, the decline in microblading's popularity, due to concerns over skin damage and pigment retention, highlights the industry's evolution. The growing preference for hairstrokes, particularly the third wave, suggests a pivotal shift. Artists must adapt to these changes, transitioning to techniques that offer better outcomes and client satisfaction.

In conclusion, artists should prioritize learning and adapting to evolving techniques, focusing on natural, client-friendly outcomes. Embracing the shift towards softer, more refined brow styles will ensure competitiveness and success in the semi-permanent makeup industry.