Pigments used for PMU procedures

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1. Background

In preparing this article, we engaged with 34 renowned Powder Brows experts, each with more than four years of experience and recognized as top earners in their field. We gathered their extensive hands-on knowledge as the foundation for our discussion. Further, we sought insights from a panel comprising two dermatologists whose feedback prompted numerous revisions and enhancements to our content.

The topic of pigments used in semi-permanent makeup is often shrouded in confusion and debate, primarily due to two factors. Firstly, there's a general lack of comprehensive understanding among artists regarding the chemical nature of pigments. Secondly, the preferences and recommendations for pigments are heavily influenced by major manufacturers, who incentivize artists to endorse their products. These manufacturers typically advocate for either organic, inorganic, or hybrid pigments as being superior. At Holistic PMU, we maintain independence from these major pigment producers, ensuring our information is unbiased, objective, and rooted in facts.

2. Understanding Pigments

Quality Control and Standards

Pigments used in cosmetic tattooing and permanent makeup are subject to rigorous quality control measures. They must be manufactured under strict laboratory conditions, prioritizing safety, consistency, and efficacy. A crucial aspect is the inclusion of a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) with each pigment, detailing its composition, potential hazards, and safety precautions.

Testing and Certifications

To ensure safety for skin contact, pigments undergo dermatological testing. They should also hold certifications confirming their safety standards. It's imperative that these pigments are free from toxic or carcinogenic substances, minimizing long-term health risks for users. In the European Union, pigments must comply with the European Council's ResAP Directive, which stipulates approved substances for cosmetic and tattooing use. This directive ensures consistent safety and quality standards across the EU.

Diversity in the Market

The market offers various pigments, each differing in composition, color, and consistency. For example, some pigments are water-based, while others are oil-based, influencing how they retain color and appear on the skin. This diversity necessitates a thorough understanding of the pigments by professionals to achieve desired results and maintain appealing aesthetics over time.

Experience Over Labels

Experienced artists often emphasize, "Don't trust the label; trust your experience." This suggests testing pigments personally to assess their healing properties in the skin. Only use high-quality pigments for testing, and allow a period of 6 to 12 months for observation. Evaluate how different pigments perform on various skin types to make informed decisions. Ultimately, rely on your own experience rather than just the information on the label.

3. Components of Pigments in PMU

Understanding Pigment Composition In the context of Permanent Makeup (PMU) and Semi-Permanent Makeup (SPMU), the term 'pigment' refers to a mixture composed of various elements. These components work together to create the final product used in cosmetic procedures.

Colorants: The Essence of Color

Colorants are crucial for providing the pigment with its distinct color. In PMU and SPMU, these colorants can be either organic or inorganic. Organic colorants, typically carbon-based, offer a wide range of bright and vivid colors. In contrast, inorganic colorants, usually metal oxides, provide more subdued, natural shades. These colorants must undergo rigorous dermatological testing and approval for safe skin contact regardless of their type.

Solvents: The Carriers of Color

Solvents are liquids that hold and distribute the colorants. Common solvents include water, alcohol, and glycerine. They function primarily as dispersants, ensuring the even application of the pigment on the skin and sometimes acting as preservatives. Imagine solvents as the medium (like water) and colorants as particles (like sand) dispersed within it.

Binders: Ensuring Adhesion

Binders in pigments are substances that help the pigment adhere to the skin. Typical binders include glycerine, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), natural resins like rosin and shellac, and block copolymers such as acrylates.

Fillers and Additives: Enhancing Functionality

These components comprise preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, and liquidity adjusters. Their roles vary from preserving the pigment to modifying its consistency or pH level.

It's important to note that a single substance can have multiple roles. For example, glycerine may act as both a solvent and a binder, depending on the pigment's formulation.

Categorization of Pigments

The classification of pigments as “organic,” “inorganic,” or “hybrid” is based on the type of colorant used, which is just one part of the overall mixture. This categorization reflects the complexity and diversity of pigment composition in PMU and SPMU.

4. The Color Index (CI) in Pigments

The Color Index (CI) is a critical tool in various industries, including Permanent Makeup (PMU) and Semi-Permanent Makeup (SPMU), for identifying the composition and characteristics of pigments and dyes.

Structure of CI Numbers

The CI system employs a unique numbering format consisting of a prefix and a five-digit number. The prefix provides a clue about the pigment's general chemical makeup. For example, "CI 77" indicates inorganic pigments, while "CI 19" signifies organic pigments.

Organic Pigments

Organic pigments, which fall within the CI number range of 10000 to 76999, are carbon-based compounds. They are known for their bright and vivid hues and are usually synthesized from petrochemicals. Despite their vibrant colors, organic pigments may be less stable than inorganic ones when exposed to light and heat. A sub-category within this range, CI 11000 to 36999, includes azo dyes, notable for their wide color variety.

Inorganic Pigments

Inorganic pigments are identified by CI numbers ranging from 77000 to 77999. These pigments are primarily composed of metal oxides and are recognized for their stability, particularly in challenging environmental conditions. The colors offered by inorganic pigments are usually more muted and natural compared to the bright and vivid shades of organic pigments. Common inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide (CI 77891) and various forms of iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), widely used for their natural tones and safety profile.

Significance in PMU and SPMU

For professionals in PMU and SPMU, understanding the CI is crucial for selecting appropriate pigments based on their color, stability, and safety. This knowledge helps achieve desired aesthetic outcomes and ensures that the pigments used are suitable for long-term application on the skin.

5. Colorants in Permanent Makeup

In the realm of Permanent Makeup (PMU), colorants play a pivotal role in achieving desired aesthetic outcomes. These colorants can be broadly categorized into three types: Pigments, Lacs, and Dyes, each with distinct properties.

Pigments

Insolubility. Pigments are known for their inability to dissolve in water and other solvents. This characteristic is due to their larger particle size.
Stability and Retention. The large particle size of pigments also grants them enhanced stability against environmental factors like light and heat, leading to better color retention in the skin.
Reactivity. Generally, pigments are non-reactive and less likely to trigger allergic reactions.
Color Range. While offering stability, pigments may have a limited spectrum of bright and vibrant colors.

They are divided into two sub-categories:

Organic Pigments. Synthetic and carbon-based, these pigments provide a range of bright colors.
Inorganic Pigments. Typically metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide, iron oxides), offering more muted colors but enhanced stability.

Lacs

Production Method. Lacs are created by depositing color on a substrate, forming a color "lake."
Solubility. They can be soluble or insoluble, varying based on their treatment.
Consistency and Stability. Lacs are valued for their color consistency and stability, useful for producing specific shades that might be challenging with pigments or dyes.
Safety Considerations. Some lacs may contain heavy metals, potentially unsuitable for certain skin types.

Dyes

Solubility and Particle Size. Dyes are soluble in water and other solvents and have a smaller particle size than pigments.
Color Vibrancy. This solubility and smaller size enable dyes to offer brighter, more vivid colors.
Fade Risk and Sensitivity. Dyes are more prone to fading over time and may pose a higher risk of allergic reactions and skin sensitivity.
Categories. Dyes are classified into various types, such as acid dyes (for protein fibers), basic or cationic dyes (for acrylic fibers), and direct dyes (mainly for cellulose-based fibers like cotton).

For PMU professionals, understanding the differences between these colorants is crucial for selecting the right materials based on the desired effects, longevity, and safety considerations. Each type has its advantages and drawbacks, necessitating a balanced approach based on the specific requirements of each PMU procedure.

6. Solubility in Colorants

In the world of pigmentation, especially in semi-permanent makeup, colorants are broadly divided into two categories based on how they dissolve: hydrophilic and hydrophobic.

Hydrophilic colorants

Hydrophilic colorants are those that dissolve easily in water. This quality makes them user-friendly for water-based applications, allowing for smooth mixing and application. However, their inability to dissolve in fats influences how they interact with different types of skin, especially oily or thick skin. Hydrophilic colorants are typically organic and not as commonly found in the market. Some brands known for their hydrophilic, organic pigments, such as iColor and Permablend, are recognized for their bright, vivid colors. However, these pigments might need careful handling, particularly for clients with specific skin types.

Hydrophobic colorants

Conversely, Hydrophobic colorants do not dissolve in water, making their mixing process more challenging. Their advantage lies in their solubility in fats, which means they can interact differently and offer varying levels of color retention across different skin types. These colorants are commonly inorganic and are often based on substances like glycine, contributing to their density and ease of control during application. Brands like Doreme and Quantum are renowned for their hydrophobic, inorganic pigments. These pigments are known for their versatility, making them suitable for various skin conditions and preferred by clients who desire a more natural appearance.

7. The Origins of Colorants

The classification of colorants based on their origin is an area that often confuses new trainers and artists in the field of semi-permanent makeup. Let's clarify this concept.

Organic Colorants: These colorants have carbon in their molecular structure. Contrary to what some may assume, 'organic' in this context does not imply naturalness but rather refers to carbon-based molecules. There are two types of organic colorants:

Natural Organic Colorants: Derived from plants or animals, for example, henna, which comes from a plant and is used for temporary tattoos.
Synthetic Organic Colorants: Man-made through chemical processes, these colorants are known for their bright, vibrant hues.

Inorganic Colorants

Lacking carbon in their structure, inorganic colorants include mineral compounds such as oxides, sulfides, and chromates. Typically, inorganic colorants are more stable, resulting in longer-lasting and less fading effects. However, they offer a more muted color range compared to organic colorants. Examples include natural iron oxides and lab-synthesized inorganic colorants. Due to their potential metal content, it's important to be aware of their composition, particularly when used on sensitive skin or within regulated cosmetic industries.

Synthetic Colorants

These refer to chemically formulated, water-soluble dyes. While 'synthetic' might suggest being entirely artificial, in this context, it often denotes a particular type of organic dye known for its solubility in water. Due to their water-soluble nature, these dyes provide a wide range of vibrant colors but may not have the stability or longevity of inorganic or insoluble organic colorants.

8. Organic Pigments

Smaller particle size, brighter colors

Organic pigments, renowned for their bright and vivid colors, bring advantages and challenges to Permanent Makeup (PMU). Their smaller particle sizes create rich, intense hues, yet also pose risks like pigment migration, making control over skin distribution tricky.

Sensitivity to UV light and implantation challenges

These pigments are sensitive to UV light and more likely to cause skin reactions, necessitating their use by seasoned professionals adept at handling these nuances. The application technique for organic pigments differs from inorganic ones; they should be applied lightly and delicately, using powdered movements and shorter strokes, rather than being densely packed into the skin.

Great retention, difficult to correct mistakes

Organic pigments are known for their solid molecular bonds, contributing to excellent retention and long-lasting results. However, this durability means that any errors made during the application, such as overly defined contours or uneven pixelation, can be challenging to correct.

Experience needed for professional results

Using these pigments requires a deep understanding of various skin types, and they are often recommended for oily or thick skin. However, caution must be exercised to avoid over-saturating the color or overbuilding the shape. A conservative approach is advisable, employing techniques like layering and dilution with a shading solution to manage color intensity.

For new artists, mastering the technical aspects of using organic pigments is crucial. This includes paying attention to needle angle, depth, hand speed, and pressure to avoid issues like pigment "blowouts," where the pigment spreads beneath the skin, creating a permanent ashy or dark appearance. Understanding these nuances is key to ensuring successful, professional outcomes with organic pigments.

9. Inorganic Pigments

Durable and Safe for Various Skin Types

Inorganic pigments stand out for their long-lasting nature, stability, and resistance to UV light. They have larger particles than organic pigments, which helps prevent the color from spreading under the skin. This quality, combined with their reduced likelihood of causing allergic reactions, makes them a safe choice for many skin types.

Subdued and Natural Colors

The color palette of inorganic pigments tends to be more subdued and matte, offering less saturation than the bright colors seen in organic pigments. These pigments are ideal for those who prefer a natural and understated look. They come in earthy tones and are well-suited for normal, combination, dry, and mature skin.

Application Challenges

Due to their larger particle size, inorganic pigments can be more challenging to apply. They often require multiple applications with increased hand pressure to implant the pigment into the skin effectively. This method, which involves building up layers of color, can be particularly useful for newer artists or for making adjustments after the initial procedure. As the skin heals, inorganic pigments may initially show cool tones, but they usually evolve into warmer, brown hues over time.

Need for More Frequent Touch-Ups

These pigments are less permanent than organic ones, meaning they fade quickly and necessitate more frequent touch-ups. This aspect allows for greater flexibility in changing the PMU as trends shift or as clients' preferences evolve. When applying inorganic pigments, using larger needles such as 3RL/RS, 5RS, or 7CM can help achieve better pigment saturation, especially for clients with thicker skin. However, not all needle types are suitable for creating detailed powdering effects. Many experienced artists, particularly in Europe, prefer using a 1RL 0.35 needle for inorganic pigments due to the difficulty of implanting them into the skin.

Overall, inorganic pigments offer unique advantages and challenges compared to organic pigments. Their distinct properties make them well-suited for specific client needs and preferences while being more accommodating for artists refining their craft.

10. Hybrid Pigments

Hybrid pigments are an innovative option in Permanent Makeup (PMU), combining the strengths of organic and inorganic pigments. These pigments are a mix of organic and inorganic particles designed to optimize characteristics like color brightness, coverage, and durability.

Versatility of Hybrid Pigments

These pigments are prevalent in the market due to their balanced properties, making them a flexible choice for various PMU applications. Understanding the composition and behavior of hybrid pigments is key to customizing approaches for different clients, ensuring both immediate satisfaction and lasting results.

Varieties of Hybrid Pigments

Hybrid pigments are not one-dimensional; they come in several types, including the following.

Organic-Based Hybrid Pigments. These contain more organic particles, providing the vibrant color and saturation of organic pigments.
Inorganic-Based Hybrid Pigments. These are more inclined towards inorganic particles, offering the subtle and stable qualities of inorganic pigments, which many brands specialize in.

Advantages of Hybrid Pigments

Color Intensity. Some hybrid pigments can match the vibrancy of organic pigments while maintaining better stability over time.
Coverage. They provide strong coverage, similar to inorganic pigments, making them suitable for various skin types and conditions.
Longevity. Hybrid pigments offer a balanced lifespan, somewhere between the long-lasting nature of organic pigments and the shorter duration of inorganic pigments.

Skin Compatibility and Styling

These pigments can be tailored to suit various skin types, from oily to mature and thin skin. In a sense, they provide a middle ground for clients desiring long-term results with the ability to adjust shape or color over time. Hybrid pigments generally offer a consistent level of color saturation, suitable for both beginners and experienced artists.

Additional Considerations

Cost. Hybrid pigments can be costlier due to their complex formulation, though it's generally agreed that cost shouldn't be the primary factor in pigment selection.
Skill Level. Effective use of hybrid pigments requires a good understanding of organic and inorganic pigment behaviors, which might challenge new artists.
Predictability of Fading. The fading rate in hybrid pigments can be less predictable due to the combination of organic and inorganic elements. Personal experimentation and observation are often the best ways to understand their healing process.

An important aspect to understand here is that, in essence, “hybrid” pigments are not a separate category per se. All hybrid pigments “inherit” the properties of their most prominent organic or inorganic components. Thus, one should never think that the mere fact of pigment being “hybrid” would somehow enhance the properties of the colorants - if those have an organic origin, one should consider the properties of organic pigments and vice versa.

11. When to Opt for Organic Pigments

Skin Type Compatibility

Organic pigments are often ideal for clients with oily or thicker skin. Their formulation and consistency are better suited to these skin types, ensuring effective color retention and satisfactory healing results.

Longevity and Maintenance

Organic pigments are known for their durability. On average, they can maintain their appearance for 2 to 3 years before requiring a touch-up. This extended longevity makes them a practical choice for clients seeking long-term results with minimal maintenance.

Saturation Quality

These pigments are characterized by their high saturation levels. In many cases, the initial treatment with organic pigments, especially in techniques like Powder Brows, may not necessitate immediate touch-ups, given their intense color payoff and depth.

Color Evolution Over Time

Over time, organic pigments may exhibit cooler tones, often due to the presence of ingredients like Carbon Black and Titanium Dioxide White. To counteract this effect and restore the original warmth of the color, a warm color boost can be applied during touch-up sessions.

Consistency in Touch-Ups

For touch-up procedures, using the same organic pigments as initially applied is advisable. This approach ensures consistent color quality and maintains the pigment's staying power and coverage. Switching pigment types for touch-ups can lead to unpredictable results and may affect the overall longevity and appearance of the PMU.

Thus, organic pigments are suitable for clients with specific skin types and those desiring vivid color saturation with extended durability. Their use, however, requires careful consideration of the client’s skin characteristics and an understanding of how these pigments evolve. Maintaining consistency in pigment choice, especially during touch-ups, is crucial for optimal results.

12. When to Choose Inorganic Pigments

Appropriate Skin Types

Inorganic pigments are particularly effective for clients with mature, thin skin. They also work well for fair-skinned individuals with dark hair and those showing signs of sun damage. Their gentle formulation and consistency make them suitable for these skin conditions.

Advantages for New Artists

Inorganic pigments are a go-to choice for newer artists due to their forgiving nature. They are also ideal for clients who prefer not to commit to a permanent shape or color, offering the flexibility to change styles over time.

Good for Trend-Following Clients

Young clients often seeking bold, highly saturated brows find inorganic pigments appealing. These pigments accommodate future style changes as trends evolve and personal preferences shift.

Saturation Process

Achieving optimal saturation with inorganic pigments typically requires multiple layers and treatment sessions, as they are less dense in color compared to organic pigments.

Frequency of Touch-Ups

Given their less permanent nature, inorganic pigments usually necessitate annual touch-ups. It is recommended to schedule these around12 months after the initial procedure.

Color Adaptability

Inorganic pigments offer a range of flexible color options. Clients may continue using them for consistency or switch to organic pigments for increased longevity and saturation.

Aftercare and Color Undertones

Due to Carbon Black and Titanium Dioxide White, organic pigments often leave a cool or ashy undertone. In contrast, inorganic pigments can leave red/orange or cool/ash undertones as Iron Oxide Black degrades.

Client Consultation and Maintenance Planning

During the consultation, emphasize the importance of maintenance for the best aesthetic results. Schedule the follow-up appointment before the client leaves, and consider offering incentives to encourage them to commit to this necessary step.

In conclusion, inorganic pigments are a practical choice for various client needs and preferences, particularly where flexibility and the ability to adjust to changing trends are important. Their suitability for various skin types and conditions and the need for regular maintenance make them a reliable option in the permanent makeup industry.

13. Azo Pigments and Laser Removal

Potential Challenges in Laser Removal

While pigments used in the body, such as for Powder Brows, are generally safe, certain complexities arise during laser removal. The heat generated by laser light can destabilize pigment particles, potentially triggering chemical reactions.

Specific Concern with Azo Pigments

Azo pigments are favored for their vibrant and stable colors but pose specific challenges when subjected to laser removal. When heated by laser light, these pigments may release aromatic amines - substances considered carcinogenic (cancer-causing).

Carcinogenic Risk from Aromatic Amines

The release of aromatic amines during laser removal of azo pigments presents a significant health risk. These substances can increase the likelihood of developing cancer, making it a critical concern for both practitioners and clients considering laser removal.

Importance of Awareness and Caution

Practitioners and clients need to be informed about the risks associated with the laser removal of certain pigments, particularly azo pigments. While the pigments are safe for initial application, their interaction with laser treatments necessitates caution.

Educating Clients and Practitioners

As a professional in the field, understanding the chemical properties of pigments and the risks linked to specific removal techniques is essential. This knowledge allows you to enhance the safety and quality of your services, particularly in guiding clients through their options for pigment removal.

14. Misconceptions About “Organic”

Misuse of the Term "Organic"

In Permanent Makeup (PMU), the label "organic" for pigments can be misleading. It's crucial to understand that PMU has no 100% organic pigments. This is primarily because pure organic pigments would lack the stability required for PMU applications.

Technical Analysis of So-Called “Organic” Pigments

Let's examine a pigment called "organic black," with the color index CI 77266. This pigment is actually a blend of organic and inorganic components produced through methods like Channel Black, Furnace Black, and Thermal Black. Each method results in different ratios of organic to inorganic components:

Channel Black: Consists of 19% organic and 81% inorganic materials.
Furnace Black: Has a balanced mix of 55% organic to 45% inorganic components.
Thermal Black: Predominantly inorganic, with a composition of 99% inorganic and 1% organic materials.

Need for Stability in PMU Pigments

Purely organic, carbon-based pigments are unstable and impractical for PMU. Including inorganic elements in pigments provides stability and durability for permanent makeup applications.

Impact on Color Retention and Safety

Understanding the real composition of these pigments is vital for PMU artists and clients. It affects aspects like color retention and safety, particularly during procedures such as laser removal.

Industry Labeling vs. Actual Composition

While the industry might categorize some pigments as "organic," it’s important to note that this term doesn't reflect their true nature. In reality, these pigments are a mix of both organic and inorganic substances.

Therefore, recognizing the actual nature of so-called "organic" pigments in PMU is essential for artists and clients. This understanding helps make informed decisions about pigment selection, application, and post-treatment care, including laser removal considerations.

15. Conclusions

In the realm of Permanent Makeup (PMU), understanding pigments is critical, as they're more than just colorants; they're a complex blend of various components. Each pigment bottle contains a mix of colorants, carriers like water, glycerin, and alcohol, along with additives such as stabilizers and thickeners. Some even have pH adjusters to balance their acidity or alkalinity.

Diving deeper into colorants, we find insoluble pigments, with large particles and UV stability, offering matte shades. Lacs, either soluble or not, provide consistent color but might contain metals. Dyes, in contrast, are soluble, smaller in size, and yield brighter colors.

Origin plays a role in categorizing colorants. Organic colorants containing carbon are known for their bright colors and smaller particles. They suit oily or thick skin but need careful handling as they're sensitive to UV light and hard to correct if mistakes are made. Inorganic colorants, devoid of carbon, offer matte, stable colors and are generally safer for various skin types. They need larger needles and more touch-ups for clients with normal skin.

Hybrid pigments, a blend of both organic and inorganic types, are predominant in today's market. They offer a balanced mix of color brightness, opacity, and longevity, catering to different skin types and preferences.

At Holistic PMU, our goal is to provide well-rounded and fact-checked knowledge. This helps PMU professionals make informed decisions, selecting the right pigments for diverse skin types and desired outcomes in their practice.