Most important pigment ingredients

Videos

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Natural PMU...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, Organic growth...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Articles

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Cashmiere Brows...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Offline marketing, Online marketing, website, domains...

Practical Tips

Tutorials, Action plans, Point-by-poin advice...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Facebook

Business account, Ads, Targeting...

Instagram

Organic growth, Fake followers, ads...

Pricing

2. Organic CI 10,000 - CI 76,999

Organic pigments, known for their bright and rich colors, are classified based on their origins. These pigments often present challenges in terms of durability and stability, tending to be less long-lasting. They tend to migrate due to their smaller particle sizes, challenging achieving even skin distribution. Additionally, organic pigments are more susceptible to causing skin sensitization and reacting to UV exposure.

Artists are advised to employ a lighter technique, using short, powdery strokes when working with organic pigments. These pigments' Color Index (CI) usually falls within the 10,000 to 76,999 range.

Given these characteristics, organic pigments are ideally suited for highly skilled artists specializing in delicate, layered applications. Caution is necessary as any heavy-handedness or overly bold contours can result in unintended permanent effects. These pigments are particularly appropriate for clients with oily or thick skin, but careful application is essential.

3. Inorganic CI 77,000 - CI 77,999

In contrast to organic pigments, inorganic pigments boast stability and longevity. They feature a more muted color range and have larger particle sizes, reducing the risks of migration and blowout. Inorganic pigments are also less prone to cause skin sensitization and are UV-resistant. Typically, their Color Index (CI) lies between 77,000 and 77,999. Applying inorganic pigments effectively often involves layering and precise distribution techniques. Due to their more forgiving nature, they are commonly recommended for beginner artists.

Designed for permanent makeup (PMU), inorganic pigments provide subtler hues and may require multiple applications to achieve the desired intensity. As the skin heals, some pigment might peel away. They are versatile, working well with normal, combination, dry, and mature skin types, and are favored by clients seeking a natural appearance.

Hybrid pigments, combining organic and inorganic elements, currently dominate the market.

4. CI 77266 - Carbon Black

CI 77266, or Carbon Black, is an intensely dark pigment known for its strong coverage. Despite being inorganic, it shares characteristics with organic pigments due to its small particle size. It is darker than black iron oxide but may turn greyish over time.

The particle size of CI 77266 varies based on the production method, affecting its properties. Smaller particles provide intense color but are difficult to disperse, while larger particles are easier to spread but offer less color density.

Carbon Black is durable and fade-resistant. When combined with Titanium Dioxide White, it lasts longer in the skin but might leave a greyish or ashy residue.

CI 77266 is produced through Channeling, Furnacing, and Thermal processing. Each method results in different particle sizes and properties:

Channeling. Produces channel black using natural gas, yielding the smallest particles (90-100 nanometers) with an almost opaque, bluish tint. It's acidic and resists clustering.
Furnacing. Utilizes petroleum-based oils, creating particles sized 200-300 nanometers with a greenish, semi-opaque hue. The process is complex but efficient and produces reusable gases.
Thermal Processing. Involves ethylene gas, generating the largest particles (up to 500 nanometers) with a brownish, least opaque color. This method is almost entirely inorganic.

Channel Black comprises 19% organic and 81% inorganic components, Furnace Black is 55% organic and 45% inorganic, and Thermal Black is 99% inorganic (elemental Carbon is considered inorganic).

For powder brows and hairstrokes, Thermal Black is the safest option due to its larger particle size, imparting a brownish undertone and fading to an anthracite shade over time.

Carbon Black's classification as organic or inorganic varies based on its production method, with each type offering unique properties suitable for different applications.

5. CI 77499 - Black Iron Oxide

Black Iron Oxide, identified by the Color Index code CI 77499, is an inorganic, hydrophobic pigment. Being hydrophobic, it repels water, making it less likely to mix with water-based solutions. In simple terms, it's water-repellent and not derived from organic materials. Black Iron Oxide, typically in its second oxidation stage, is often categorized under iron oxides. Its chemical formula, Fe3O4, uniquely contains iron in the +2 and +3 oxidation states.

Color-wise, Black Iron Oxide has a rich, warm hue, lighter than Carbon Black, and tends to shift towards warmer tones over time. This difference in color intensity between Black Iron Oxide and Carbon Black is largely due to their particle sizes - larger particles like Black Iron Oxide appear lighter, while smaller particles like Carbon Black appear darker.

Interestingly, Black Iron Oxide is synthesized in laboratories to ensure purity and prevent heavy metal contamination. Although its formula occurs naturally in iron ore, today's Black Iron Oxide is predominantly lab-produced.

According to the Environmental Working Group's (EWG) Skin Deep database, Black Iron Oxide has a 'fair' hazard score, ranging between 2-4, indicating general acceptance in cosmetology.

An intriguing aspect of Black Iron Oxide (Fe3O4) is its magnetic properties. There have been instances where magnets have adhered to pigment bottles containing it. However, this magnetic trait doesn't suggest harmful heavy metal content. The magnetic nature of Fe3O4 might theoretically affect Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI), but such an impact would require quantities far exceeding those used in Powder Brows, Hairstrokes, or Microblading treatments.

Historically, Black Iron Oxide was extracted from iron ore, which could contain traces of other metals. Today's lab-synthesized version has virtually eliminated these concerns, and experts generally debunk claims of heavy metal presence in the synthesized form.

Finally, Black Iron Oxide pigments often include glycerine. Glycerine serves two purposes: as a binder, it loosely holds pigment particles together, and as a solvent, it influences the pigment's consistency. This gives it a different behavior than pigments with other binders like shellac.

6. CI 77891 - Titanium Dioxide White

Titanium Dioxide White, or CI 77891 or TiO2, is a widely used inorganic pigment in cosmetology, particularly lip and eyebrow pigments. Its primary function is to enhance the reflectivity of other colors in a pigment blend, helping to stabilize the color and prevent it from shifting into undesirable shades. When added to pigments, Titanium Dioxide White tends to make the resulting color more opaque and less vibrant, compared to pigments without it, which appear more transparent and translucent.

A notable characteristic of CI 77891 is its behavior in pigment metabolism within the skin. For instance, if a pigment containing Titanium Dioxide White is mixed with water and left to settle, the Titanium Dioxide particles will separate and sink to the bottom. This indicates that it tends to segregate from other components in the mixture, potentially affecting how it interacts with skin tissues over time.

Titanium Dioxide White is known for its impressive opacity and coverage capability, effectively lightening pigment colors and providing strong coverage. This quality makes it particularly valuable in color correctors. It also has a high lightfastness rating, meaning it remains stable when exposed to light, thereby outlasting many other pigments and leaving behind a residual color ranging from ashy or grey to nude-yellow.

However, when Titanium Dioxide White is mixed with organic-based pigments, the color tends to be long-lasting but may become duller and cooler over time. This is especially important for brow pigments, which often require a warm color boost—usually achieved with orange or yellow-based pigments—to retain their original warmth and vibrancy. Without adding warm undertones, the result can be a cooler, more muted appearance as pigments like red and yellow fade. A common error is using a dark, cool pigment without accounting for this effect, which can increase the brows' coolness over time.

7. Additional Inorganic Pigments

CI 77288 and CI 77289 Chromium Oxides

Chromium Oxides, with CI codes 77288 and 77289, are inorganic pigments widely used in cosmetics for their distinct green hues. CI 77288 is known as Chromium Oxide Greens, while CI 77289 is often called Hydrated Chromium Oxide Green. Both these pigments are deemed safe for cosmetic use by EU and FDA standards. Renowned for their stability, they offer excellent resistance to heat and light, making them ideal for stable color applications in Powder Brows, Hairstrokes, and other procedures. While Chromium Oxides can occur naturally in minerals, cosmetic-grade versions are typically synthesized in laboratories to ensure their purity and consistent color quality.

CI 77491 Red Iron Oxides

Red Iron Oxide, or CI 77491 or Fe2O3, is celebrated for its vibrant red color. It is recognized as safe by EU regulations and has a hazard score of 1-2, according to EWG's Skin Deep Database. Many artists consider Red Iron Oxide to be stable and long-lasting on the skin, making it a trusted choice in cosmetic applications.

CI 77492 Yellow Iron Oxides

Yellow Iron Oxide, represented by the chemical formula FeO(OH) or FeO(OH)·nH2O, differs from Red Iron Oxide (Fe2O3) in terms of chemical properties and crystal structures. Both forms are approved as safe by EU standards and have low hazard scores on the EWG's Skin Deep Database. Iron oxides are known for their stability in the skin, making them popular choices for microblading pigments. While naturally occurring forms like ochre exist, the iron oxides used in cosmetics today are mostly lab-synthesized for higher purity and consistency.

CI 77007 Sodium Aluminosilicate Violet or Ultramarine Blue

Ultramarine Blue, identified by CI code 77007, is a complex inorganic pigment primarily composed of sodium, aluminum, silicon, and oxygen. It is widely used in cosmetics, including microblading pigments, for its stability and vibrant blue hue. Recognized as safe for cosmetic applications in the European Union and the United States, Ultramarine Blue is also valued for its non-toxicity and resistance to decomposition, ensuring long-lasting pigment stability. Although it can be found in natural sources like the mineral lapis lazuli, cosmetic-grade Ultramarine Blue is usually synthesized to guarantee purity and consistency.

8. ÄAdditional Organic Pigments

CI 11783 Yellow Pigment Yellow 120

This organic pigment is prized for its yellow color in cosmetics. It is widely recognized as safe according to EU and FDA guidelines. Known for its stable color, this pigment is often synthesized for enhanced purity and consistency.

CI 12475 or 12475:1 Red Pigment Red 170

Commonly known as Red 170, this organic pigment is used for its vibrant red shade in cosmetics. It meets safety standards set by the EU and FDA and is noted for its strong colorfastness. Red 170 is typically lab-synthesized.

CI 19140:1 FD&C Yellow 5

A synthetic organic dye approved by the FDA for use in cosmetics and food and compliant with EU safety regulations. It is recognized for its bright yellow color and stability.

CI 561170 Orange 73

An organic pigment is often utilized for its orange hue in cosmetic products. It is safe under EU and FDA regulations and offers good stability and color retention.

CI 11767 Yellow Pigment 97

According to EU and FDA guidelines, this organic yellow pigment is commonly used in cosmetics and is considered safe. It is valued for its stable yellow color.

CI 56110 - Red Pigment Red 254

An organic red pigment is known for its deep red hue. It is widely used in cosmetics, acknowledged as safe, and is known for its durability and bright, stable color.

CI 561300 - Red Pigment Red 264

This organic pigment is used for its red shade in cosmetics. It is recognized as safe and stable.

CI 56298 - Yellow Pigment Yellow 139

An organic pigment valued for its yellow shade in cosmetics, known for its safety and stability.

CI 56300 Yellow Pigment Yellow 138

Typically synthesized in laboratories for consistent quality, this pigment is used for its yellow color in cosmetic products.

CI 200310 - Yellow Pigment 155CI 200310

Also known as Yellow Pigment 155, this is an organic pigment used for its yellow hue in cosmetics. It adheres to EU and FDA safety standards and is recognized for its excellent color stability.

9. The "Carrier" in Pigment Formulas

A pigment formula consists of two primary components: the colorant and the carrier. The colorant is responsible for providing the actual color deposited into the skin. In addition to the colorant, the formula includes various additives like solvents, binders, and fillers. These additives are crucial in stabilizing the formula, aiding its application, and affecting the pigment's longevity.

The term "Carrier" can be referred to as "Paint Base" or "Medium" within the context of pigments. It's important to distinguish between the colorant and the carrier, as discussed in earlier sections. The carrier usually comprises a mix of solvents, binders, and other additives. These components serve specific purposes within the pigment mixture. They not only facilitate the application of the pigment but also influence its durability and overall behavior in the skin. These elements harmonize with the colorant to create the final pigment product used in procedures.

Together, the colorant and the carrier form the complete pigment formula that comes in the bottle, ready for use in cosmetic applications.

10. Solvents as Dispersants

Solvents in pigments primarily act as dispersants. These substances, including common ones like water, alcohol, and glycerine, help distribute pigment particles evenly. They function more as dispersants rather than traditional solvents.

The Concept of "Dispersants"

In the pigment context, "dispersants" ensure the even distribution of pigment particles within the liquid carrier. Their role is to prevent particle clumping, ensuring a smooth and consistent color upon application. When you use a pigment bottle for powder brows, hairstrokes, or similar procedures, the uniform color throughout the liquid is thanks to dispersants. They maintain this even color distribution, making each application consistently effective.

Witch-Hazel (Hamamelis or Hamamelis virginiana)

Witch-hazel is a plant whose leaves and fruit are used to create a semi-liquid substance. It acts as a gentle cooling agent in various cosmetic products. Generally safe (unless one is allergic, which is rare), it is a common ingredient in creams and cooling gels for rashes and swelling.

Purified Water

Pigments often contain purified water (H2O), which is free from contaminants. Purified through methods like osmosis, filtration, and distillation, it is chemically pure H2O without smell or taste.

Alcohols

Alcohols in chemistry are diverse, and their safety depends on the specific type. For example, wine (ethanol) has different effects than methanol, which can be toxic. In pigments, it's crucial to examine the exact alcohol formula used. Some common alcohols in pigments include:

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) [(C2nH4n+2On+1)]. Used to retain moisture and liquidity in pigments. PEG is produced by reacting ethylene oxide with water or ethylene glycol. While generally safe and used in various medical and cosmetic products, some rare allergic reactions have been reported. It’s important to distinguish it from ethylene glycol, which is toxic and not used in pigments.
Isopropyl Alcohol (Isopropanol) (C3H8O). A simple antiseptic used by many artists. It functions as a solvent in the pigment mixing process and is commonly used as an antiseptic and solvent in pigments.

11. Binders in Pigments

Binders are substances that ensure pigment adherence to the application surface. Common binders in pigments include glycerine, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), Isopropyl palmitate (C19H38O2), and natural resins like rosin and shellac, as well as acrylate block copolymers.

Glycerine (C3H8O3) - aka Glycerol or Sugar Alcohol

Derived mostly from natural sources, glycerine is an odorless, colorless liquid with a sweet taste. It's used as a moisturizer in pigments to prevent the evaporation of other components. Glycerine can be produced from animal sources, soya beans, or palm, and is obtained through the reaction of alcohols with triglycerides.

Rosin (C15H20O6)

Rosin is derived from pine tree resin and is sometimes a byproduct of paper production. It's used in various products to increase thickness and solidity, including medications and chewing gum. In pigments, rosin adds solidity and thickness to the substance.

Shellac

A natural resin secreted by the lac bug, shellac is used as a binder in powder brow and hairstrokes pigments. Its natural adhesive properties help the pigment adhere more effectively to the skin, ensuring consistency and longevity of color. While safe for cosmetic use, shellac is an animal-derived product and not vegan-friendly.

Isopropyl Palmitate (C19H38O2)

A substance derived from palm and coconut oil, isopropyl palmitate enhances the thickness and unifies different substances in the pigment. It gives the pigment a clearer, shinier, softer, and smoother appearance. Despite concerns about causing acne or clogged pores, these are generally exaggerated in the context of pigments.

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Used as a binder in powder brow and hairstrokes pigments, PVP is a stabilizing agent that enhances skin adhesion, longevity, and color consistency. It is safe for cosmetic use, ensures uniform application, and contributes to the pigment's overall quality.

Propylene Glycol (C3H8O2)

Often misunderstood due to its presence in antifreeze, propylene glycol is also a natural byproduct of fermentation. In pigments, it is an odorless, colorless, and tasteless substance used to maintain moisture. Despite being listed as a carcinogen in some databases, the FDA considers it generally safe in small amounts.

12. Fillers and Other Additives

Fillers and additives in pigments encompass a range of substances, including preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, and liquidity adjusters. These components fulfill various functions, from preserving the integrity of the pigment to modifying its consistency or pH level.

It's important to note that a single substance can often perform multiple roles within the pigment formula. For instance, glycerine can function as both a solvent and a binder, with its specific role influenced by its concentration and the particular pigment formulation.

In summary, the "carrier" within a pigment holds and disperses the pigment particles and contains diverse additives. These multifunctional additives contribute to the pigment's ease of application, overall performance, and longevity.

13. Conclusions

Understanding the substances categorized by the Color Index (CI) is crucial. CI 10,000 - CI 76,999 denotes organic pigments, while CI 77,000 - CI 77,999 refers to inorganic pigments.

Essential colorants to be familiar with include Carbon Black (CI 77266), Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499), and Titanium Dioxide White (CI 77891).

Other important colorants include:

Inorganic: Chromium Oxides (CI 77288 and CI 77289), Red Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Yellow Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Sodium Aluminosilicate Violet/Ultramarine Blue (CI 77007).
Organic: Yellow Pigment Yellow 120 (CI 11783), Red Pigment Red 170 (CI 12475 or 12475:1), FD&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140:1), ORANGE 73 (CI 561170), Yellow Pigment 97 (CI 11767), Red Pigment Red 254 (CI 56110), Red Pigment Red 264 (CI 561300), Yellow Pigment Yellow 139 (CI 56298), Yellow Pigment Yellow 138 (CI 56300), Yellow Pigment 155 (CI 200310).

The "Carrier," also known as "Paint Base" or "Medium," is the part of the pigment mixture, aside from the colorant, that ensures effective dispersion, cohesion, and skin penetration. The "Carrier" comprises various components, each serving a specific role:

Solvents. Examples include Witch-hazel, Purified water, Glycerine (C3H8O3), Polyethylene Glycol, Isopropyl Alcohol (C3H8O), and other alcohols.
Binders. These include Glycerine, Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Isopropyl Palmitate (C19H38O2), Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and natural resins like Rosin and Shellac.
Fillers and Other Additives. This category encompasses preservatives, emulsifiers, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, and liquidity adjusters.

Most important pigment ingredients

1. Background

2. Organic CI 10,000 - CI 76,999

3. Inorganic CI 77,000 - CI 77,999

4. CI 77266 - Carbon Black

5. CI 77499 - Black Iron Oxide

6. CI 77891 - Titanium Dioxide White

7. Additional Inorganic Pigments