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1. Background

This article is based on research conducted over four years, from 2018 to 2022. It involves in-depth interviews with 76 microblading artists. These professionals specialize in microblading and practice other pigmentation techniques, like powder brows. The group of artists is diverse, with 56 from the European Union, 12 from the United Kingdom, and eight from the United States. Their insights offer a deep understanding of semi-permanent makeup techniques.

Interestingly, despite the geographical diversity, there were no notable differences in their experiences or observations based on location. This similarity across different regions highlights the global relevance of the findings and practices in the semi-permanent makeup field.

We consulted two dermatologists and a cellular biology specialist to ensure the conclusions from these interviews were scientifically valid and accurate. Their expertise was crucial in assessing the agreement among artists. This was especially important for understanding the lifecycle and effectiveness of microblading as a semi-permanent option.

The main goal of this article is to clear up any confusion about the lifecycle of the microblading process within the larger world of semi-permanent makeup. We want to give a full understanding of this popular cosmetic technique. We'll examine its long-term value and how well it works for clients who want better-looking eyebrows. This article is not just for academic purposes; it's also a practical guide for practitioners and clients in cosmetic enhancement.

2. Understanding Microblading Depth

Contextual Understanding of Microblading

Microblading artists often say the procedure targets the basal membrane between the dermis and epidermis. However, scientifically, this claim is incorrect. Let's examine this by looking at the thickness of skin layers.

Claims about Microblading

Microblading is said to target the basal membrane between the dermis and epidermis. To evaluate this, we need to understand the skin's structure, focusing on the epidermis, dermis, and basal membrane thickness.

Dermis Thickness in the Brow Area

The thickness of the dermis varies based on body region, age, gender, ethnicity, and health. The dermis at the start can be over 1 mm thick for the brow area, possibly ranging between 1-2 mm, depending on skin type and other factors. Towards the end of the brow, it gets thinner.

However, specific measurements for the brow area are rare in dermatology literature, focusing mostly on broader regions like the face.

Epidermis Thickness in the Brow Area

The epidermis is typically 50-100 micrometers thick in the brow area. It's much thinner than the dermis and has less variation in thickness across different body areas. The epidermis on the face, including the brow area, is thinner than in other parts, like palms or soles.

Basal Membrane Thickness

The basal membrane is a thin layer between the dermis and epidermis, crucial for cellular processes. It's very thin, measuring 10-50 nanometers, about 0.00001 to 0.00005 mm.

Size of Pigment Particles in Pigmentation

Pigment particles in inks are typically 100-500 nanometers. They are sized to balance the ease of skin insertion and retention. Van der Waals forces, especially in pigments like Carbon Black, can form aggregates, making the effective size around 1 micrometer.

Conclusion Regarding Depth

Considering pigment sizes and skin layer thickness, depositing pigment into the basal membrane alone is not feasible. In microblading, the blade penetrates through the epidermis and basal membrane into the upper dermis. This depth is necessary for the pigment to stay in place and remain visible over time, as the epidermis constantly renews. This conclusion is based on the physical properties of pigments and the biology of human skin, offering a clearer understanding of the microblading process and its effects.

4. Removal of Particles

Bloodstream Entry

Sometimes, a few particles might get into the bloodstream. This is rare and usually happens with smaller particles.

Phagocytosis

Some particles are engulfed by macrophages and moved to the lymphatic system. Surprisingly, larger particles (up to 10 micrometers) are more likely to be engulfed than smaller ones (less than 500 nanometers). This goes against the idea that big particles are harder for macrophages to “eat.” Macrophages often 'miss' particles in the 100-200 nanometer range.

To be more specific, whether macrophages 'miss' particles in the 100-200 nanometer range depends on the chemistry of the particles' surface. However, these smaller particles often escape macrophage detection.

Even though smaller particles can be engulfed, their size affects how they interact with the macrophage's surface receptors. Small particles (often less than 500 nm) may not be recognized as efficiently as bigger ones. This doesn't mean small particles can't be engulfed; it's less likely.

A Note About Larger Particles

Macrophages can also engulf larger particles (up to 10 micrometers). However, this might involve several macrophages working together or different processes like 'frustrated phagocytosis,' where the macrophage can't surround the particle. So, the idea that bigger particles are harder for macrophages to engulf is too simple. Often, it's the smaller particles that are not detected and, therefore, not engulfed.

5. Particles Remaining in the Dermis

To understand why microblading remains visible, we must explore how pigment particles stay in the skin and what happens to macrophages that can't transport or process these particles.

Macrophage Status Transformation

After taking in pigment particles, some macrophages transform and become inactive. They don't die but enter a dormant state, slowly releasing the pigment over time. Let's examine this further.

Macrophage Operation and Pigment Processing

Macrophages can't process certain pigments, like elemental carbon. They may contain these particles in these cases, forming a granuloma around them. This effectively isolates the foreign material, making the pigment visible in the skin for a long time. Pigments may fade as cells naturally turn over, and the pigment slowly releases or breaks down.

Fading of the Pigment - Release of Pigment Particles

The gradual release of smaller pigment particles is part of normal macrophage activity. This process varies based on the pigment's size, chemical nature, and the immune response. Over time, pigments may break down or be expelled by the macrophages.

Fibroblast Encapsulation

Pigment particles can be trapped within the fibroblast network, especially when aggregated. The collagen framework captures these particles, ensuring they stay longer due to the slower regeneration of this network compared to the skin's surface layer.

Retention in Extracellular Matrix (ECM)

Aggregated particles can stay in the ECM. Their retention depends on their chemical properties and how well they match the skin's pH. Larger aggregates and suitable chemical interactions can extend retention, sometimes for years.

Penetration to Reticular Dermis and Hypodermis

Suppose the pigment goes too deep, reaching the reticular dermis or hypodermis. In that case, it can cause 'blurred lines.'’ Pigments with organic hydrocarbons (C-H) may last longer in the lipid-rich hypodermis.

Pigment Aggregates Breaking Down Over Time

The forces holding pigment particles together may weaken over time, especially with UV light, chemicals, enzymes, or laser treatments. However, the particles' internal bonds are usually strong and don't change easily.

In conclusion, many factors affect how long microblading pigments last and how visible they are. These include the depth of the pigment, particle size, aggregation, chemical properties, and the skin's reaction. Each pigment particle's fate depends on these complex factors, making each case unique.

6. Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

Practical Impossibility of Perpetual Retouching

The idea that microblading can be kept up 'forever' with regular retouching is theoretically possible, but it's hard to do in practice. Each retouch aims to recreate sharp lines, assuming the old pigment fades or is removed over time.

Chemical Aspects

Chemically, this ongoing retouching assumes that pigments fade or are removed from the lymphatic system consistently for each primary color: black, red, and yellow. This might work, especially with pigments that have few additives. It's more likely with inorganic colors than with those containing carbon black (CI 77266). Additionally, not having substances like titanium dioxide, which can change how other colorants degrade and react to light, is important.

Biological Aspects

From a biological standpoint, how inorganic oxides interact with skin proteins, like ferritin, could lead to changes, such as "brows turning red." Salinization can help prevent this, but it doesn't directly affect how particles leave the skin. The theory of particles moving to the lymphatic system is not always what happens in reality.

A big concern is how the collagen structure changes at microblading sites over time. It might get so dense that adding new pigment in the same spot becomes hard, affecting how sharp the lines look after each retouch.

7. Theoretical Possibility

To consider the possibility of perpetual retouching, in theory, several conditions must be met:

Pigment Particle Size and Composition. The particles should be the right size and chemical makeup so that macrophages can efficiently move them to the lymphatic system before the next retouch.
Interval Between Retouches. There should be enough time between retouches for the collagen network to recover and be ready to take in new particles at the same spot.
Rate of Decomposition of Different Colorants. The colorant particles should break down at similar rates, especially when aggregated. This is important for client satisfaction over time.

Considering these factors, it's clear that achieving "perpetual retouching" is quite difficult and not very practical. The complexity of how the skin reacts biologically and how pigments behave make this a tough task in semi-permanent makeup.

8. Practical Reality

Experiences of Skilled Artists

The research shows that even skilled artists face challenges creating the conditions for perpetual retouching. Getting pigment particles to disappear before each retouch, fully rebuilding the collagen network, and keeping clients happy simultaneously is nearly impossible. Over time, there's always some drift from the ideal.

Chemical Problems

When using substances like Carbon Black that stay longer in the skin, there's a buildup of black colorant particles. This buildup can eventually limit the possibility of adding more pigment in the same area.

Biological Problems

Reimplanting pigment becomes difficult if retouching is done before the collagen network fully recovers. This can cause micro-scarring and blurring. The ideal time between retouches varies, depending on age, lifestyle, and technique. Typically, the cycle should be no shorter than 6-12 months to give the skin enough time to heal.

Psychological Problems

Client expectations are important. Clients might want frequent retouches for sharper lines, but this can lead to the opposite effect: more blurred lines over time. Continuous pigment implantation in the same area can lead to oversaturation and a too-dense collagen network that can't take in new pigment properly.

Preliminary Conclusion

Perpetual retouching in microblading is impractical due to the risk of blurred lines and unwanted color changes. This issue isn't unique to microblading and applies to similar techniques, although each should be assessed separately.

The issue's complexity goes beyond chemical, physical, or psychological solutions. Improvements in each area can make retouching less frequent, but eventually, starting over with the same or a new technique is necessary. This requires removing as much pigment as possible first. But if the time between needing removal stretches over several years (like 3-5 years), semi-permanent makeup remains an attractive option for many customers.

9. Conclusions

Scientific Inaccuracy of Microblading Claims

The common belief in semi-permanent makeup that "Microblading is done between the dermis and epidermis, into the basal membrane" is not scientifically accurate. Our analysis shows this because of how the skin is structured, especially in the brow area. The epidermis and dermis layers, along with the very thin basal membrane, make it unlikely to target this spot for putting in pigment. The size of the pigment particles and their clusters is also problematic, as they are too big to fit just in the basal membrane.

Microblading Implantation Target Layer

It's important to realize that the target layer for putting pigment in microblading is not unique. Like other techniques, such as Powder brows or the nano hairstroke technique, microblading aims for the papillary dermis. This layer is better for holding pigment particles over time due to its structure and biological features. Putting pigment in the papillary dermis ensures it stays visible and lasts, which is key for these cosmetic procedures.

Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

We looked into a perpetual retouching cycle in microblading involving chemical, biological, and psychological aspects. Perpetual retouching means constantly updating microblading to keep the lines sharp and clear. Chemically, this means the pigments need to fade or be removed regularly, which is hard to predict. Biologically, the challenge is giving the skin's collagen network enough time to heal between retouching, which might not match how often clients want it done. Psychologically, clients wanting frequent retouching can lead to less sharp, more blurred lines over time.

Considering all these factors, a practical, ongoing retouching cycle in microblading and similar techniques is generally not doable. The combination of how the skin reacts, how pigments behave, and client expectations make this a difficult, if not impossible, goal.

Hairstrokes and Microblading - Why is perpetual retouching not possible with microbading

"Many people compare the results, healing process, and sharpness of hairstrokes in the Hairstrokes technique to those in microblading. There's a wide agreement that constantly retouching microblading to keep it perfect is impossible. In this article, we dive into this topic to understand it better."

1. Background

2. Understanding Microblading Depth