Perpetual retouching cycle in Hairstrokes

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1. Background

Exploring Retouching in Semi-Permanent Makeup

In semi-permanent makeup, especially eyebrow pigmentation, one critical aspect is the need for regular retouching. This article examines the concept of perpetual retouching, particularly focusing on the hairstrokes technique, and compares its effectiveness with other methods like microblading and powder brows. Our goal is to offer an unbiased look at the practicality of ongoing retouching using hairstrokes and identify the factors contributing to its success.

Research and Data Collection

For this study, we interviewed 76 artists proficient in various pigmentation techniques, including powder brows, over four years from 2018 to 2022. These artists came from diverse locations: 56 from the European Union, 12 from the United Kingdom, and eight from the United States. Interestingly, their experiences were consistent regardless of geographical location. Two dermatologists and a cellular biology expert reviewed the findings and received widespread agreement among these artists for further validation.

Practical Tests and Observations

Additionally, we conducted 40 practical tests between 2021 and 2023 to observe the effects of the hairstrokes technique on pigment retention through multiple retouching cycles. The results and insights gained from these tests are incorporated into our analysis in this article.

2. Dermatological criteria

Understanding the Depth of Pigment Implantation

In the techniques of microblading, powder brow pigmentation, and hairstrokes, there's a common misconception about the depth at which pigment is implanted. Contrary to some claims, all three techniques target the same skin layer: the papillary dermis, which is the upper part of the dermis layer of the skin.

Debunking the Basal Membrane Myth

There's a prevalent belief among microblading artists that their technique targets the basal membrane, a layer between the dermis and epidermis. However, this is scientifically inaccurate. The basal membrane is extremely thin, measuring only 10-50 nanometers (0.01-0.05 micrometers), making it an unrealistic target for pigment implantation.

Because pigment particles in microblading range from 100-500 nanometers and can even cluster into larger aggregates due to van der Waals forces, they are too large to be confined to the basal membrane. Microblading involves penetrating through the epidermis and basal membrane into the upper dermis, specifically the papillary dermis.

Importance of Penetration Depth for Pigment Longevity

This depth of penetration is essential for the pigment's longevity and visibility. Since the epidermis continuously renews itself, placing the pigment in the dermis ensures it remains visible over time. This confirms that the pigments are deposited deeper than the basal membrane, which aligns with the pigments' physical size and the skin's biological structure.

3. Debunking the 'Sweet Spot' Myth

The concept of targeting a 'sweet spot' in the upper layer of the dermis, particularly in the papillary dermis, is a common myth in pigmentation techniques like microblading, powder brows, and Hairstrokes. To understand this concept, it's important to consider the dermatological, physical, and biological constraints and the skin's actual thickness.

Variability in Dermis Thickness

The thickness of the dermis, the skin layer beneath the epidermis, varies depending on several factors, including the specific body area, age, gender, ethnicity, and general health. In the brow area, the dermis can be notably thick. At the beginning of the brow, it may exceed 1 mm (1000 micrometers or 1 million nanometers), with some variation due to skin type and ethnicity. The thickness generally decreases towards the tail of the brow.

However, specific measurements for the dermis in the brow area are not commonly detailed in dermatological literature, which often focuses on broader facial regions. For our analysis, we'll consider a thicker version of the dermis, which aligns with our findings.

Consistency of Epidermis Thickness

The epidermis, the outermost skin layer, is less variable in thickness, especially in the brow area. It typically measures between 50-100 micrometers (0.05-0.1 mm). This range is in line with established dermatological understanding. The epidermis is much thinner than the dermis and is generally consistent across different body areas. The facial epidermis, including the brows, is thinner than in areas like the palms or soles.

Practical Challenges in Targeting the 'Sweet Spot'

Theoretically, implanting pigment into the papillary dermis makes sense and is dermatologically sound. However, achieving this level of precision in practice is challenging. Artists must aim for a precise depth of around 0.2-0.5 millimeters when inserting the needle or blade, and this depth can vary in different parts of the brow.

Assessing the 'Sweet Spot' Theory in Practical Terms

The theory of precisely targeting the 'sweet spot' in the skin during pigment implantation is theoretically appealing but practically challenging. While the human eye can distinguish distances as tiny as 0.1 mm (100 micrometers), expecting an artist to gauge the exact depth of needle penetration visually is unrealistic. This is especially true considering the rapid rate at which the needle penetrates the skin, often multiple times per second. Other sensory methods, like listening to the needle's prick or feeling its vibration, are also insufficient for precise depth determination. At most, an artist might sense the needle entering the epidermis, but accurately distinguishing between the papillary and reticular layers of the dermis is beyond human sensory capabilities.

Depth Control Challenges in Practice

In reality, many pigmentation artists, regardless of their experience level, may inadvertently reach the hypodermis, the layer beneath the dermis, during procedures. Precisely controlling the depth of pigment implantation poses significant challenges due to the skin's varying thickness and the limits of human perception. As a result, the main focus in practice is not solely on which specific skin layer receives the pigment but rather on managing the distribution of pigment across different layers. This approach acknowledges the difficulty of achieving the exact depth with every needle insertion and emphasizes the importance of overall pigment placement.

4. Retention of pigment particles

Understanding Pigment Retention in Hair Strokes Technique

To assess the effectiveness of a perpetual retouching cycle for brows created with the hair strokes technique, we must understand how pigment particles behave in the skin after implantation. Some pigment is removed from the skin immediately, while some remains. Here's how this happens.

Ways Pigment Gets Removed

Bloodstream Entry: Although rare, some tiny pigment particles might enter the bloodstream.

Phagocytosis is a more common process where macrophages (a type of immune cell) engulf pigment particles and carry them to the lymphatic system. Surprisingly, larger particles (up to 10 micrometers) are more likely to be engulfed than smaller ones (under 500 nanometers). The success of phagocytosis also depends on the particle's chemical makeup and how it interacts with macrophages.
Larger Particles: Particles as large as 10 micrometers can be phagocytosed, but anything larger might need multiple macrophages or other processes like "frustrated phagocytosis" for removal.

How Pigment Remains in the Dermis

Macrophage Status Transformation: Some macrophages become dormant after engulfing pigment particles, slowly releasing them over time.
Macrophage Operation and Pigment Processing: Macrophages might hold chemically inert particles, like elemental carbon, without processing them. They can form granulomas to isolate these particles.
Fading of the Pigment: The slow release and fading of pigment depend on the particle's size, chemical nature, and the body's immune response. Over time, macrophages might break down or excrete the pigment.
Fibroblast Encapsulation and ECM Retention
Fibroblast Encapsulation: Larger aggregated pigment particles can get trapped within the fibroblast network, leading to longer retention.
Retention in the Extracellular Matrix (ECM): Larger aggregated particles tend to stay in the ECM, with certain chemical interactions promoting longer retention.

Impact of Deeper Penetration and Particle Breakdown

Deeper implantation can blur the lines, with the chemical composition of the pigment influencing its retention. Over time, external factors like UV light, chemicals, enzymes, or laser treatments can weaken the forces between particles. However, the internal covalent bonds within the particles are generally stable.

Therefore, several factors influence the retention and visibility of pigmented colorants in skin pigmentation, including depth of implantation, particle size and aggregation, chemical properties, and the skin's response. The journey of each pigment particle is complex, resulting in unique outcomes for each individual.

5. Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

The idea of maintaining microblading or Hairstrokes indefinitely through continuous retouching is appealing but faces practical challenges. Each retouching session is designed to rejuvenate the brows, depending on the previous pigment fading or being removed over time. We can consider two main goals for perpetual retouching: creating brows that look like natural hair without visible lines, as seen in many powder brow techniques, and achieving brows with distinct lines, characteristic of Hairstrokes and Microblading.

Conditions for Theoretical Perpetual Retouching

For a perpetual retouching cycle to work in theory, several conditions must be met.

Pigments need to be effectively cleared away by the immune system, specifically macrophages, before the next retouching session.
The collagen network in the skin should have enough time to heal adequately between sessions.
Different colorants used in the pigment should break down at similar rates to avoid the need for excessively frequent retouches.

However, meeting these conditions in real-life scenarios is quite difficult. The pigment removal and skin healing process can vary significantly from person to person. Moreover, the rate at which different pigments decompose can also vary, making it hard to predict when the next retouch will be needed. Consequently, while perpetual retouching is a theoretically possible goal, achieving it consistently and effectively in practice presents considerable challenges.

6. Challenges in Perpetual Retouching

Chemical Limitations

When using substances like Carbon Black (CI 77 266) in pigmentation, they tend to persist in the skin, leading to a buildup of colorant particles. Over time, this accumulation can hinder adding more pigment in the same area.

Biological Challenges

Retouching cycles before the collagen network has fully recovered can result in micro-scarring and blurred lines. The ideal cycle duration varies based on factors such as the client's age, lifestyle, and the artist's technique but should generally be no shorter than 6-12 months. This allows the skin enough time to heal properly.

Psychological Factors

Clients' expectations can influence the retouching process. Frequent retouching requests to maintain crisp lines may paradoxically lead to blurred lines due to oversaturation and a dense collagen network that cannot effectively absorb new pigment.

Ideal Conditions for Retouching

Chemically, using high-quality mineral pigments that the body can remove within about 12 months can mitigate chemical issues. Biologically, assuming simultaneous pigment quality, colorant composite elimination, and minimal ferritin-caused oxidation can reduce chemical problems significantly. Salinization can also help minimize biological interactions that lead to oxidation and color changes.

Biological and Psychological Interplay

Practical and theoretical analysis reveals that biological and psychological factors are closely linked in perpetual retouching cycles. Extensive damage to the collagen network and altered skin conditions can result in blurred lines. Each additional retouching session often shortens the period of client satisfaction, eventually becoming economically unfeasible.

Conclusions on Perpetual Retouching

Perpetual retouching in microblading is challenging due to line blurring and color changes. This complex issue requires a multidisciplinary approach. While advancements in technique and materials can prolong the duration between retouching cycles, a complete restart with either the same or a different technique is often necessary, typically involving the removal of as much existing pigment as possible first.

7. Perpetual Retouching - Hairstrokes

Assuming that any major chemical issues are effectively resolved, the main concern for Hairstrokes in achieving perpetual retouching cycles lies in two areas: minimizing biological damage to the collagen network and ensuring customer satisfaction with the healed results. The cycle timing is crucial, allowing enough healing time for the collagen network before the next session.

Microblading: Linear Wounds

Microblading creates linear wounds with a blade, cutting through the epidermis into the dermis.
These cuts are longer and expose more skin surface, potentially causing more disruption to the collagen network.
The healing process might be slower due to the larger wound size, and the new collagen formed can be disorganized, increasing the risk of scar tissue.
Manual application results in variable depths, leading to uneven healing and scarring.

Hairstrokes: Punctuated Wounds

Hairstrokes technique uses a machine needle to pierce the skin, depositing pigment at similar depths as microblading.
The puncture wounds are smaller and heal more quickly, causing less disturbance to the collagen network.
Healing is generally more efficient, with a better chance of maintaining the collagen network's original structure.
The mechanized nature of the needle provides more consistent depth control, leading to uniform healing and reduced scarring.

Conclusions on Damage and Healing

Microblading tends to cause more significant damage to the collagen network, with slower healing and a greater likelihood of micro-scarring due to the nature of the linear wounds it creates. These wounds disrupt more collagen fibers and complicate the healing process. In contrast, Hairstrokes, with their smaller and more consistent puncture wounds, are less damaging to the collagen network and promote quicker healing, thereby reducing the risk of scarring.

8. Dermatology vs.Real-World

Integrating Dermatology and Real-World Observations

Combining dermatological insights with practical evidence gathered between 2021 and 2023, we find substantial support for the theory that different pigmentation techniques impact the collagen network differently. This variation affects healing and the degree of micro-scarring.

Practical Implications

While this evidence supports the possibility of a perpetual retouching cycle with the Hairstrokes technique, it doesn't confirm its feasibility in every situation. A more nuanced understanding of the technique is necessary.

Analyzing Hairstrokes' Effectiveness

When examining Hairstrokes, which uses a machine to create hair-like lines, we should consider two aspects.

Stroke Retention and Definition: Each hairstroke comprises a series of punctuated “holes” for pigment implantation. Evaluating how well these individual strokes retain pigment and remain defined over time is crucial.
Overall Pattern and Healing: It is equally important to assess the broader pattern and how it heals.

Empirical Findings on Hairstrokes

Empirical findings indicate that while Hairstrokes create favorable conditions for a perpetual retouching cycle, challenges arise due to skin chemistry, UV light exposure, minimal pigment migration, and procedural imperfections. However, designing a pattern that combines pixelation and strokes—particularly those longer than natural brow hairs for improved stability—enhances the likelihood of successful perpetual retouching.

Simplified Overview

In simpler terms, the Hairstrokes technique may not always support perpetual retouching at the individual stroke level. However, it's more achievable when focusing on the overall eyebrow pattern, resembling natural brows. This approach has shown high customer satisfaction and growing demand. Hairstrokes effectively balance the biological limits of the skin with aesthetic desires, offering a durable, natural-looking brow pattern that maintains its appearance over time.

9. Conclusions

Key Findings

This article has thoroughly explored the concept of achieving a perpetual retouching cycle with the Hairstrokes technique in semi-permanent makeup. It confirms that the papillary dermis is the primary target for pigment implantation in Microblading, Powder brows, and Hairstrokes, ensuring pigment durability as the epidermis continually renews itself.

Debunking Common Myths

We've debunked several myths, including the impracticality of targeting the basal membrane in microblading due to its delicate nature. The idea of consistently hitting a "sweet spot" in the dermis is also challenged, considering the variability of skin thickness and the limits of human sensory abilities.

Understanding Pigment Retention and Removal

Our analysis delves into the biological processes that govern pigment retention and removal. Macrophages play a pivotal role, either transporting pigment particles to the lymphatic system or slowly releasing them over time. Pigment encapsulation within the fibroblast network and the extracellular matrix further contributes to retention.

Addressing the Challenges of Perpetual Retouching

Despite the theoretical possibility of perpetual retouching, practical challenges persist, including consistent pigment removal, adequate collagen network recovery, and managing client expectations. Comparatively, microblading tends to cause more collagen damage, slower healing, and a higher risk of micro-scarring due to larger wounds. Machine pigmentation, with smaller wounds, offers quicker healing and less collagen disruption.

Optimizing Hairstrokes for Perpetual Retouching

Empirical evidence indicates that while achieving perpetual retouching for individual Hairstrokes is difficult, creating a combined pixelation pattern and varied stroke lengths can optimize conditions for perpetual retouching, leading to high customer satisfaction and growing demand for Hairstrokes.

Final Considerations

The article concludes that while improvements in techniques and materials can prolong the time between retouching cycles, a complete restart using the same or a different technique is eventually necessary. This is due to the complex interplay of chemical, biological, and psychological factors, underscoring the need for a multidisciplinary approach in semi-permanent makeup.

Overall Conclusion

In conclusion, the Hairstrokes technique in semi-permanent makeup offers the potential for a perpetual retouching cycle. However, this is more feasible at the level of the overall eyebrow pattern rather than individual strokes, considering all the factors involved.