Limitations of the Hairstrokes technique

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"Riding the wave of its surging popularity, the Hairstrokes technique has become a buzzword in the world of semi-permanent makeup in 2023, with its influence only growing stronger in 2024. But it's not all smooth sailing. What are the unexpected challenges and limitations that come with this sought-after method? In our article, we unravel the less-talked-about aspects of Hairstrokes, tapping into the rich experiences of seasoned artists. Join us as we shed light on the real-world constraints of this technique, providing clear insights into what sets Hairstrokes apart and where it draws the line."

1. Background

Gathering Expert Insights

To provide a comprehensive understanding of the Hairstrokes technique, we engaged with 36 experienced pigmentation artists who have integrated this method into their practice, either as a transition from other techniques or as an addition to their existing services. This diverse group includes 28 artists from the European Union, 6 from the United Kingdom, and 2 from the United States.

Our insights are informed by ongoing research projects initiated in 2019 and 2020. These studies have tracked the evolution of the Hairstrokes technique over the years, examining how various factors have contributed to its growing popularity in the field of semi-permanent makeup.

Identifying Hairstrokes Limitations

Despite its rising popularity, Hairstrokes are not universally applicable. This article aims to shed light on specific scenarios where the Hairstrokes technique may not be the best option for clients. We will discuss circumstances that call for alternative approaches, guiding for artists to make informed decisions about the most suitable techniques for their clients.

Purpose of the Article

By identifying and understanding the limitations of Hairstrokes, artists can better navigate the diverse needs of their clients, ensuring optimal results and client satisfaction. This article serves as a resource for artists to recognize when to employ Hairstrokes and when to consider other methods.

2. Evolution of Hairstrokes

Historical Roots and Recent Growth

The Hairstrokes technique, similar to microblading, has its roots in a centuries-old tradition. However, the recent surge in popularity, especially in Europe since 2014, has marked its significant growth in the semi-permanent makeup (PMU) industry. This technique has evolved to combine the best attributes of both powder brows and microblading.

Combining Longevity and Natural Appearance

Hairstrokes are often hailed by artists as a superior approach in PMU, blending the durability of powder brows with the natural-looking results characteristic of microblading. This method aims to merge the strengths of both techniques while minimizing their limitations.

Surging Popularity in Recent Years

The technique has particularly seen a significant increase in demand since the latter half of 2023, a trend that experts predict will continue well into 2024. This growing preference among artists and clients underscores the technique's versatility and effectiveness.

Industry Recognition

Major platforms like PMU Hub, a leading online authority in the world of permanent makeup, have recognized this shift in the industry. At the close of 2023, PMU Hub highlighted the dominant role of machine hair strokes, stating, "Machine hair strokes have dominated the PMU industry in 2023, and there are no signs of it stopping in 2024!” This endorsement from pmuhub.com reflects a broader consensus among top pigmentation artists worldwide, further solidifying the stature of Hairstrokes in the PMU landscape.

Implications for the Future of PMU

The historical context and recent ascendance of Hairstrokes in the PMU industry point to a significant shift in client preferences and artist techniques. This evolution suggests a dynamic future for the industry, where Hairstrokes continue to play a pivotal role in shaping trends and standards.

3. Technical Perspectives of Hairstrokes

Advanced Pattern Creation

The Hairstrokes technique in semi-permanent makeup revolves around creating eyebrow patterns using a pigmentation machine, typically equipped with a single, fine needle. This technique stands out for its ability to create complex patterns that feature intersecting lines, subtle gradient effects within these lines, and an added dimension of powdered shadow effect. These nuanced elements, unattainable with other techniques such as microblading, make Hairstrokes particularly intricate.

Precision in Gradient Line Creation

The key to successfully achieving these detailed effects lies in the precise execution of each stroke. Each line in the Hairstrokes pattern demands a high level of technical skill, ensuring the gradient effect is seamless and natural-looking.

Piercing Versus Cutting: A Distinctive Advantage

A significant advantage of Hairstrokes over methods like microblading is the technique's gentle approach to skin penetration. Unlike microblading, which involves cutting the skin to create lines, Hairstrokes uses a PMU machine with a fine needle, typically measuring between 0.25 to 0.35 mm in diameter. This needle rapidly pierces the skin, depositing pigment at a controlled depth.

Reduced Traumatization and Faster Healing

The piercing action of the Hairstrokes technique results in smaller, more localized puncture wounds compared to the linear cuts made by microblading. These puncture wounds are less traumatic to the skin's collagen network, allowing for quicker healing and a reduced risk of scarring. The machine's mechanized nature allows for consistent depth control, contributing to uniform healing across the treated area.

Contrast with Microblading

In contrast, the linear wounds created by microblading blades tend to cause more extensive damage to the collagen network, disrupting more fibers and leading to a more complex healing process. The newly formed collagen during this healing phase can often be denser and more disorganized, potentially resulting in scar tissue formation.

Technical Superiority of Hairstrokes

In summary, the Hairstrokes technique's technical sophistication lies in its less invasive nature, precise control, and ability to create complex, natural-looking patterns. This contrasts with the more traumatic impact of microblading, highlighting Hairstrokes as a more advanced option in the realm of semi-permanent makeup.

4. Hairstrokes’ Adaptability

Effective on Oily Skin

A key advantage of the Hairstrokes technique lies in its adaptability to various skin types, especially when compared to traditional methods like microblading. Unlike microblading, which is often less suitable for individuals with oily or thick skin, Hairstrokes demonstrate a higher level of versatility in handling such skin types. Experienced artists have noted that Hairstrokes can be effectively applied to oily skin, although it's important to clarify that oily or thick skin doesn't inherently make the procedure easier. Additionally, using hybrid pigments containing hydrocarbons is not specific to oily skin, as these pigments can be implanted effectively across different skin types. Overall, oily skin does not present a significant challenge for the Hairstrokes technique.

Understanding the Universality of Hairstrokes

Hairstrokes' effectiveness on oily skin is due to its unique pigment implantation method. Unlike microblading, which creates linear wounds that can cause pigment migration or spreading, Hairstrokes employs a method that minimizes these risks.

Microblading vs. Hairstrokes on Oily Skin

Analyzing microblading's challenges on oily skin, we find that its implantation technique is a crucial factor. Microblading involves making linear cuts, which are more extensive and disruptive to the skin's collagen network than the puncture wounds created by machine needles in Hairstrokes. This leads to slower healing, greater potential for scar tissue formation, and inconsistencies due to the manual application of the blade.

Limitations of Hairstrokes

While Hairstrokes are more adaptable to various skin types, it has limitations. Experienced artists recognize that Hairstrokes may not be ideal for every client. The technique's constraints are less about skin properties and more related to the characteristics of the natural eyebrow hair. This suggests that while Hairstrokes offers a versatile solution for many, it should still be considered based on individual client needs and eyebrow characteristics.

Therefore, while Hairstrokes overcome many of the limitations seen in microblading, particularly in dealing with oily skin, it does have its own set of considerations. The technique’s success hinges more on the natural characteristics of the eyebrow hair than on the skin type itself.

5. Thick Natural Brow Hair

Client Selection and Technique Suitability

Clients with naturally thick brow hair often express interest in the Hairstrokes procedure. However, experienced artists are cautious about accepting such cases. Despite the high quality of the procedure's execution, the results on thick natural brow hair may not offer significant improvement.

Why Hairstrokes May Not Be Ideal for Thick Brows

The fundamental reason lies in the technique's limitations when it comes to dramatically transforming dense natural brows. Hairstrokes aim to enhance natural brow appearance subtly and artfully, not to create a stark contrast to the original brow shape. It is uncommon for Hairstrokes specialists to suggest shaving parts of the brow to create a new pattern on skin areas lacking natural hair growth. Such extensive transformations are typically more feasible with the powder brows technique or its variations.

Philosophy Behind Hairstrokes

The guiding principle of the Hairstrokes technique is to achieve a look that complements and enhances the client's natural brow characteristics. The goal is to create a refined, natural appearance rather than a complete overhaul of the brow's inherent shape and texture. This approach reflects the artistic essence of Hairstrokes, prioritizing natural enhancement over radical changes.

Making Informed Decisions

Therefore, when clients with thick natural brow hair seek the Hairstrokes procedure, artists must evaluate the potential outcome realistically. They must consider whether the technique aligns with the client's expectations and if a different approach, like powder brows, might yield a more satisfactory transformation.

In summary, while the Hairstrokes technique offers artistic refinement, it is not always the best choice for clients with thick natural brow hair seeking significant changes in brow appearance. Artists must balance the technique's natural enhancement philosophy with the client's desire for transformation.

6. Long, Curvy Natural Brow Hair

Artistic Considerations for Specific Brow Characteristics

A key limitation in the Hairstrokes technique, as identified by numerous artists, is the nature of the client's natural brow hair. Particularly challenging are clients whose natural brows are characterized by strong, long, and notably curvy hair. In such cases, artists often encounter a distinct visual mismatch between the natural brow hairs and the artificial pattern created by the Hairstrokes technique.

Reasons for Declining Certain Cases

While there are no technical impediments to applying Hairstrokes on such brows, the resulting aesthetic discrepancy may lead artists to decline these procedures. The technique's capability to mimic natural hair is less effective in these instances, creating a contrast that might not meet the client's expectations for a harmonious, natural look.

Hairstrokes' Core Objective: Natural Enhancement

This limitation highlights a central objective of the Hairstrokes method: to achieve results that naturally blend with and enhance the client's existing brow features. The technique is not just about creating realistic hair strokes; it's about ensuring they harmoniously integrate with the client's natural brow characteristics.

Critical Analysis of Natural Brow Features

In Hairstrokes, the analysis of natural brow features is paramount. Understanding each client's unique brow hair structure, diameter, curvature, color, and overall shape is crucial to achieving a successful outcome. This thorough analysis guides the artist's approach, ensuring the artificial strokes complement the natural brows rather than creating an unnatural or disjointed appearance.

Tailoring to Individual Needs

Therefore, when considering Hairstrokes for clients with long, curvy natural brow hair, artists must carefully assess whether the technique will enhance or detract from the natural beauty of the brows. The decision to proceed with the procedure depends heavily on how well the artificial strokes align with the brow hair's natural characteristics.

7. Unique brow shape and hair direction

Assessment of Natural Brow Characteristics

The decision to proceed with the Hairstrokes procedure often hinges on an artist's assessment of a client's natural brow shape and the direction of hair growth. Artists might opt out of the procedure if the client's unique brow characteristics do not align well with standard Hairstrokes patterns. Factors like genetic predisposition or a history of heavy plucking can result in brow shapes that present challenges for the Hairstrokes technique.

Importance of Natural Brow Structure

The Hairstrokes method adheres to the principle of enhancing and complementing the natural brow. This approach necessitates a clear understanding of the client's existing brow shape and growth pattern. While the technique allows for some level of transformation, it requires a natural brow structure as a foundation for the pattern to be built upon.

Cultural Variations in Brow Patterns

It is often observed, somewhat anecdotally, that a significant proportion of Asian clients have similar natural brow growth patterns, which can make the Hairstrokes procedure more straightforward for these individuals. However, it's important to note that not all Asian clients share the same hair growth characteristics, and variations exist. European clients tend to exhibit a wider range of brow growth patterns.

Artist's Judgment in Pattern Selection

This diversity necessitates a careful approach from artists. The ability to envisage and adapt a suitable Hairstrokes pattern to the client's unique brow shape is crucial. If an artist cannot identify a pattern that harmonizes with the client's natural brows, it may be best not to proceed. This decision is less about the suitability of the Hairstrokes technique for a particular ethnic group and more about the artist's ability to tailor the procedure to individual brow characteristics.

Tailored Approach for Each Client

In conclusion, while Hairstrokes offer a versatile solution for enhancing natural brows, the technique's success greatly depends on the artist's skill in adapting to each client's unique brow shape and growth direction. An artist's discretion in pattern selection is key to ensuring the procedure complements the natural beauty of the brows.

8. Three-levels of envisioning brows

First Level: Immediate Transformation Vision

At this foundational level, artists at fast-paced brow bars often employ a swift, on-the-spot visualization technique humorously described as, “While you're talking, I'm thinking about how I'd do your eyebrows.” This immediate foresight focuses on envisioning the direct shaping, tinting, or pigmentation result. It's akin to the immediate 'after' effect in photos right after brow procedures, where the transformation is most noticeable.

Second Level: Anticipating the Healed Outcome

This intermediate level requires the artist to foresee how the brows will look once fully healed, post-procedure. It's about mentally navigating through the entire healing phase to predict the final appearance of the brows roughly two months after the treatment. Considerations at this stage include understanding how the lines will settle, the extent of color fading, and how the chosen pattern will harmoniously blend with the client’s natural brow hair.

Third Level: Visualizing the PRC Outcome

Reserved for highly skilled and experienced artists, this advanced level involves projecting the appearance of brows after several retouching sessions, typically three to five cycles (in the Perpetual Retouching Cycles state). This foresight is not just about recommending multiple procedures for the sake of business but about offering a long-term, sustainable solution that aligns with the client's needs and expectations.

Client Appreciation for Long-term Planning

For professional Hairstrokes artists, mastering this third level of forward thinking is crucial. It's not only about visualizing the immediate outcome but also comprehending the long-term impact of the procedure on the client's brows as they heal and change over time. Educating clients about different techniques and their prolonged effects is vital to the Permanent Makeup (PMU) approach.

Client Reactions and Understanding

Our experience indicates that while clients might initially be surprised by such comprehensive consultations, they often come to appreciate this level of transparency. This approach provides them with a deeper understanding of the long-term implications of their choice, aiding them in making more informed decisions about their brow treatment.

9. Conclusions

The Evolution of Hairstrokes

Hairstrokes, a long-standing semi-permanent makeup technique, gained remarkable popularity in late 2023, continuing to grow globally into 2024. Praised for its combination of powder brows' durability and microblading's natural appearance, Hairstrokes has carved a unique niche in the beauty industry.

Technical Distinction in Pigment Implantation

A key to its distinctiveness lies in its implantation method. Unlike microblading's skin-cutting approach, Hairstrokes employs a PMU machine with a fine needle to pierce the skin. This method leads to smaller, quicker-healing wounds, causing less disruption to the skin's collagen network and making Hairstrokes more versatile across different skin types, including oily and thick skin.

Limitations and Client-Specific Considerations

Despite its adaptability, hairstroke has specific limitations, often related to the client's natural brow characteristics rather than skin type. These include the following.

Thick Natural Brow Hair. Clients with dense natural brows might not see noticeable improvement, leading artists to decline the procedure occasionally.
Long, Curvy, Natural Brow Hair. The distinct nature of such hairs can be challenging to replicate with Hairstrokes, potentially causing an aesthetic mismatch.
Unusual Brow Shapes and Growth Directions. If a client's natural brow shape doesn't complement Hairstrokes patterns, professionals may opt not to proceed.

Forward Thinking in Hairstrokes Artistry

Expert Hairstrokes artists are distinguished by their advanced forward-thinking abilities, encompassing:

Immediate Post-Treatment Visualization. A quick assessment of the immediate result post-procedure.
Healed Result Anticipation. Predicting how the brows will appear once fully healed.
Long-Term Outcome Projection. Envisioning the brows after multiple retouches is known as the "Perpetual Retouching Cycle.”

Conclusion: Mastery of Hairstrokes

Reaching the third level of forward-thinking indicates a Hairstrokes artist's proficiency and professionalism. It represents a holistic approach, considering not just the immediate or healed results but the long-term evolution of the brows, ultimately enhancing client satisfaction and decision-making.