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1. Background

Laser removal has become a preferred method for eliminating Powder Brows or Hairstrokes, establishing itself as a reliable correction technique. Many experienced artists have noted increased client inquiries about this option in recent years. We consulted 17 different Permanent Makeup (PMU) artists for a professional perspective on this trend. Most of these artists are from EU countries, with some from the UK. Among them, 11 offer laser removal as part of their services. To provide a comprehensive understanding, we also consulted two dermatologists. Their insights were crucial in assessing the medical aspects and effectiveness of the laser removal process. Furthermore, this article has been reviewed and enhanced by additional specialists, including a chemist, a dermatologist, and an expert in cellular biology.

2. Effective approach to have

Exercise Caution Before Offering Suggestions

As an artist, it's vital not to hastily suggest laser procedures or other removal methods like saline-based techniques. Experienced artists often find that clients' concerns stem from misunderstandings about the procedure rather than real issues with their brows. Listening to clients' concerns thoroughly is crucial to understand their perspective.

Assess the Situation and Plan Accordingly

Consider the age of the tattooed brows first. If the procedure was recent, within a few weeks, avoid instantly recommending removal, even if it benefits you financially. Clients sometimes consider laser removal hastily after initial dissatisfaction with their brows, often as a reaction to the healing process.

Addressing the Information Gap

Artists sometimes fail to convey what they consider basic information to their clients. This lack of communication can lead clients to misconceptions about the healing process or seek misguided advice from non-experts. While laser removal can be appropriate, clients often request it due to misunderstandings or lack of knowledge about the typical healing trajectory post-brow treatment.

Evaluating the Situation Professionally

As a Powder Brows or Hairstrokes artist, maintaining professionalism is key. This includes judging when laser removal might be necessary and setting realistic expectations for the results. Consider the age of the tattooed brows and the type of pigments used before suggesting laser treatment. Without this information, predicting how the brows might fade over time is hard.

3. Brows Less Than a Year Old

General Guideline

If brows are less than a year old and show significant color change, they're likely to naturally fade or nearly vanish over time. Immediate removal might not be the best decision. Clients might not know that experienced laser removal professionals often refuse to treat brow pigmentation that's only a few months old, particularly less than six months, due to the increased risk of scarring.

Laser Removal Timing and Pigment Healing

Clients considering laser removal within six months of a semi-permanent makeup procedure should be informed about the natural fading process. The pigment's appearance can change significantly between the sixth and twelfth months post-implantation, as the body's healing and immune responses naturally alter the pigment's visibility.

Pigment Degradation and Chemical Structure

The pigment in semi-permanent makeup often forms clusters (acinus clusters), held together by various chemical bonds. These pigments degrade at different rates influenced by factors like exposure to UV light, hormonal changes, and the presence of other chemical elements.

Natural Breaking Down of Weaker Bonds

Van der Waals bonds, weaker non-covalent bonds within these pigment clusters, are susceptible to disruption. Increased enzymatic activity or changes in the skin's biochemical environment can weaken these bonds, leading to pigment disintegration. This might start slowly and then accelerate, causing more rapid pigment fading.

Informing clients about the natural breakdown of pigment is crucial, as it can significantly affect the results and efficacy of laser treatment. Waiting until the pigment has stabilized and the body has begun its natural degradation may lead to better laser treatment outcomes and fewer sessions for satisfactory removal.

Informed clients are often more likely to reconsider their initial decision for early laser removal post-procedure.

4. Brows Created Over a Year Ago

When semi-permanent brows show little fading after a year or stabilize within the first three months, it could indicate several factors such as pigment migration, agglomerate formation, encapsulation in fibrosis, or entrapment within the extracellular matrix. Certain characteristics can guide the evaluation even if the initial artist or pigments used are unknown. Blurred lines, a grayish residue, or an intense dark blue color might suggest pigment migration or deep implantation.

Blurry Lines and Dark, Cold Tones

Blurred lines with dark, cold tones often indicate pigment migration, typically caused by deep implantation into the hypodermis. This is more common with smaller particle-size pigments, especially organic colorants. The lipophilic nature of the hypodermis leads to long-term retention, and as it renews slowly, laser removal might be necessary for significant pigment reduction.

Key indicators of migration include the following.

Blurred edges. Originally sharp brow edges become smudged.
Pigment spreading. Expansion beyond original borders.
Intensity variations. Uneven color intensity across the brow area.

"Dirty Grayish" Soap Residue Look

A semi-transparent, "dirty" grayish appearance often suggests using a pigment with finely micronized Titanium Dioxide. This look can emerge when the body cannot clear Titanium Dioxide effectively. It's important to note that Titanium Dioxide's reflective properties make it resistant to laser treatments, potentially necessitating alternative or additional removal methods.

Dark Blue Tint

A shiny, dark blue appearance often results from high concentrations of organic components like hydrocarbons, found in pigments such as CI 77266 or Furnace Black 2. Using techniques for inorganic pigments on these organic-rich colorants can lead to excessive pigment buildup, limiting fading and correction options and often making laser removal the only viable solution.

Therefore, the persistence and fading of pigments are influenced by a complex mix of factors, including the pigments' properties, application techniques, and individual skin responses. Professionals must understand these factors to manage client expectations and choose suitable removal or correction strategies. Predictions on removal ease should be informed speculations, acknowledging the uncertainties and data limitations.

5. ”Physical” Side of the Procedure

How the Laser Beam Works

Professionals need to explain the scientific principles behind laser removal to clients. Lasers emit concentrated light energy in ultra-short bursts, breaking down pigment particles in the skin into smaller pieces. This process resembles rapid heating, causing gas release and a bleaching effect on the hair, with secondary effects on the skin. The removal occurs over multiple sessions, spaced at least six weeks apart, to allow for proper clearance and healing. The number of sessions required depends on factors like the depth of pigment application, pigment type, and the intensity of the original application.

The Cause of the Unpredictability of Results

The complexity of laser removal extends beyond simply fragmenting pigment. We often lack precise information about the pigment's particle size and the strength of the bonds within these particles, making it difficult to predict at what structural level the laser will break down the colorant—whether it's the acinus agglomerates, the aggregates themselves, or individual particles.

Hierarchical Breakdown of Colorants

The breakdown usually starts with the larger agglomerates disassembling into aggregates, held together by weaker van der Waals forces. The laser separates these aggregates into individual particles bound by stronger covalent bonds. Molecules within these particles are even more resistant to breakdown due to their internal covalent bonds. Lastly, atoms, shielded by these bonds, are the most stable and resistant to decomposition.

Reasons to Avoid Prognosis

Given the tiered challenge of laser removal, addressing pigment breakdown from larger clusters to more stable atoms, professionals can only speculate on the number of sessions needed for complete removal. This uncertainty requires a careful and informed approach when setting expectations with clients seeking laser pigment removal.

6. “Biological” Side of the Procedure

Interplay of Laser and Metabolic Responses

The laser removal of semi-permanent makeup like Powder Brows or Hairstrokes involves laser technology and the body's metabolic mechanisms. The laser fragments the pigment into smaller pieces, which the body's metabolism processes and eliminates. This process aims to gradually reduce the pigment's appearance and restore the skin's natural tone by stimulating the body's reactions to break down and transport the unwanted pigment to the lymphatic system.

The Body's Natural Cleanup Mechanisms

After laser treatment, the fragmented pigment particles are not static. The body uses its defense and cleansing systems, including macrophages, to handle these particles. These white blood cells specialize in ingesting and degrading foreign materials, including the fragmented pigment from the laser treatment.

Crucial Role of Macrophages

Understanding the macrophage’s response, part of a broader immune reaction triggered by the laser fragmentation, is crucial. The response to laser exposure varies for each pigment and is influenced by factors like particle size, chemical composition, and structure. Oversimplification of this process should be avoided.

Pigment Fragmentation and Immune Response

While macrophages can ingest and digest large entities like bacteria, they may not capture smaller nanoparticles, which can evade these cells and potentially migrate deeper into the dermis. This possibility underscores the importance of understanding the limitations of macrophages and the variable nature of their ability to phagocytose.

Factors Influencing the Efficacy of Laser Removal

The physiological and biological aspects of laser removal are complex. The interaction between the laser-altered pigment and the body's immune system depends on various variables. Professionals should communicate to clients that the process involves a nuanced series of biological and chemical events, each contributing to the outcome of pigment removal. This understanding is crucial for setting realistic expectations and ensuring an informed decision-making process.

7. Selective wavelengths

Wavelength Specificity and Colorant Response

Understanding the response of different pigment colorants to various laser wavelengths is crucial in laser removal. Specific wavelengths target particular colors, making this selection a key to effective removal strategies. For instance, 1064 nm wavelengths effectively target black and blue pigments, while 532 nm is better suited for red pigments. This section will explore the science behind these interactions and provide insights for selecting the appropriate wavelength for the pigment.

Relations between “colors,” Particle Sizes, and Wavelengths

Light Absorption and Particle Size. The size of pigment particles influences how they absorb light. Smaller particles may scatter light differently than larger ones due to their surface area-to-volume ratios and quantum-level interactions with light.
Selective Photothermolysis. Lasers operate on selective photothermolysis, targeting specific colors (chromophores) in the skin with particular wavelengths. If a pigment particle is the right size to absorb a specific wavelength strongly, it will heat up and break down more effectively when exposed to laser light.
Mie Scattering and Rayleigh Scattering. These physical principles explain light interaction with particles of different sizes. Larger particles tend to scatter light less and absorb more, leading to more effective breakdown under laser exposure. Conversely, very small particles might scatter light more due to Rayleigh scattering, making them less responsive to certain lasers.
Reflection and Refraction. Larger particles may reflect and refract light differently than smaller ones, affecting the laser's ability to penetrate and deliver energy effectively.

Particle size is critical in determining laser removal efficiency as it influences the pigment's optical properties, including light absorption and scattering. This is why lasers with specific wavelengths target different colors and sizes of pigment particles during the removal process.

8. Natural Progression of Exfoliation

Color Shifts During Removal

The change in pigment color during removal is a natural part of the post-laser treatment lifecycle. This section will address common color transitions, such as inorganic pigments shifting from salmon to grey and organic pigments fading from red to orange. It will explain the reasons behind these changes and the necessary adjustments in subsequent laser treatments.

Dynamics of Carbon Black Removal

The reaction of Carbon Black CI 77 266 during laser treatments is significant due to its variable particle size. Typically, smaller particles are removed first, revealing the underlying red component. This subsection will discuss strategies for managing the layered removal of Carbon Black, including the transition from red to orange-yellow shades and the appropriate laser wavelength applications.

Complexities of Older and Mixed Pigment

s Older permanent makeup often presents unique challenges, such as purple discolorations that indicate pigment layering or inconsistent application. The focus here will be on understanding the color application history and customizing the laser treatment to effectively target the most recent pigment layer. Strategies for identifying and choosing the right wavelength for these complex cases will be discussed.

Laser wavelength and pigment type interplay is intricate, requiring detailed knowledge and flexibility. This comprehensive review aims to guide artists and clients, illuminating the scientific aspects of laser removal and offering a roadmap for successful semi-permanent makeup correction.

9. Conclusions

When clients consider laser removal for Powder Brows or Hairstrokes, a thoughtful and informed response is paramount whether you initially provided the service or not. Recommending immediate laser removal, especially for personal gain, undermines professionalism. Experienced artists often note that laser removal may be unnecessary, as clients' decisions might be based on incomplete understanding or misconceptions about the procedure.

Critical Considerations for Laser Removal

Age of the Brow Tattoo. Assessing the age of the tattoo is vital. It's usually advisable to wait and observe the natural fading process for brows less than a year old and still fading. Laser specialists often hesitate to treat brows under six months old due to increased scarring risks.
Pigment Used. The specific pigments used significantly influence the removal process's potential success. While educated guesses can be made, definitive prognoses should be avoided without comprehensive information.

For Fresh Brows

Patience is often recommended for brows less than a year old as the pigment continues to fade naturally. However, if the brows are over a year old and show minimal fading or stabilization within the first few months, a closer examination is necessary to determine the need for laser intervention.

Indications for Laser Treatment

Migration. Blurred edges, pigment spreading, and uneven color intensity might indicate migration and the need for laser treatment.
Pigment Composition. Lasers can struggle to remove titanium dioxide and are generally less effective against green and yellow pigments. They work best on black, red, and grey pigments.

Technical Aspects of Lasers

Wavelengths. Lasers primarily use 1064 nm for black and blue pigments and 532 nm for red shades.
Operation. Lasers emit high-energy light in ultra-short pulses, shattering pigment particles into fragments for the body to process and eliminate.

Before undergoing the procedure, understanding the targeted colorant and the laser's capabilities is crucial. Professionals often provide a range of session estimates due to each case's complexities and individual variations. They may suggest 2 to 10 sessions for effective removal, but this can vary.

In conclusion, laser removal of Powder Brows or Hairstrokes is a complex procedure requiring careful consideration of many factors. Professionals must guide clients with informed, patient, and honest counsel, setting realistic expectations and ensuring they understand the process and potential outcomes.