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Iron oxides in pigments

Feb 09, 2024, Update: Feb 09, 2024, author: Hairstrokes.com / Holistic PMU
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"Many brand owners lack the necessary facilities and equipment to reprocess iron oxide, so they tout their products as being crafted through "revolutionary methods," branding them as "next generation," "purified," and "ECHA compliant" iron oxide pigments. However, these claims often fall into typical marketing hyperbole rather than scientific fact. This article aims to provide a more scientifically accurate understanding of iron oxides used in semi-permanent pigments, demystifying the marketing claims and presenting reality."

1. Background


This article is based on interviews with 41 pigmentation artists who have extensively used inorganic pigments and hybrid pigments with inorganic bases for over three years, focusing on their retention and transformation in the skin. A dermatologist, chemist, and cellular biology expert have analyzed the artists' observations, aiming to illuminate the role of Iron oxides in pigmentation.

General Information Black Iron Oxide, recognized in the Color Index by the code CI 77499, is an inorganic, hydrophobic pigment. Hydrophobic repels water, making it less prone to mixing with water-based solutions; it’s water-resistant and not derived from organic sources. Typically, it is categorized as an iron oxide pigment in its second oxidation stage. The chemical formula for Black Iron Oxide is Fe3O4, distinctively containing iron in both the +2 and +3 oxidation states.

Color-wise, Black Iron Oxide presents a rich, warm hue. It is lighter than Carbon Black and tends to warm up in tone over time. The variance in color intensity between Black Iron Oxide and Carbon Black primarily stems from their particle sizes. Simplified, larger particles such as Black Iron Oxide manifest as lighter, whereas smaller particles like Carbon Black appear darker.

2. No "beauty industry" Iron oxides


Iron oxide's purity, particle size, and stability are critical in semi-permanent makeup applications. Impurities or instability in the iron oxide can cause unexpected color changes or reactions with the skin, while particle size impacts color intensity and durability. Thus, understanding the production method of iron oxide is essential to evaluate its quality and appropriateness for use in pigments. It's important to note that there is no specific “beauty industry iron oxide.”

Iron oxides utilized in the cosmetic industry, including those in semi-permanent makeup pigments, are generally indistinguishable from those used in other sectors. There is no unique categorization for iron oxides based on their application in cosmetics, paints, or coatings.

Iron oxides are compounds primarily made of iron and oxygen. They are valued for their stability, nontoxicity, and vibrant color spectrum, which make them popular colorants across different industries. The primary types of iron oxides include red iron oxide (Fe2O3), black iron oxide (Fe3O4 or magnetite), and yellow iron oxide (FeOOH), among others. These essential compounds are consistent across applications, whether in cosmetics, paints, plastics, or concrete.

Cosmetic Grade vs. Industrial Grade

While the chemical composition of iron oxides is constant across industries, their purity and particle size may differ. Iron oxides designated as “cosmetic grade” are tailored for use in cosmetics, including semi-permanent makeup. These undergo rigorous purification to eliminate impurities like heavy metals, which may be permissible in non-cosmetic applications but are unsuitable for skin-contact products. Controlling particle size is crucial to achieving the desired color intensity and uniformity. Nevertheless, the iron oxide's fundamental chemical structure remains unchanged.

Iron Oxides in Various Industries

Cosmetics (including semi-permanent pigments). Employed for coloring items such as foundation, blush, eyeshadow, and semi-permanent makeup. The iron oxides used in cosmetics are purified to adhere to skin safety standards.

Paints and Coatings. Iron oxides lend color to diverse paints and coatings. The same iron oxides that color lipstick may also be used in barn paint or machinery coating, though possibly with different purity levels and particle sizes.

Plastics and Rubbers. Iron oxides color various plastics and rubber materials, benefiting from their durability and stability.

Concrete and Building Materials. Iron oxides color concrete products, and other building materials offer a wide range of aesthetic choices.

While the chemical base of iron oxides is consistent, the cosmetic industry demands iron oxides that conform to specific safety standards. Cosmetic-grade iron oxides are processed to ensure safety for skin contact, devoid of harmful impurities, and to provide reliable and consistent color. The particle size is typically finer and more uniform, allowing for smoother application and finish, which is essential for cosmetic products.

Despite the shared basic chemical structure of iron oxides across various applications, their processing and purification details are markedly distinct in the cosmetics sector.

3. Production methods of Iron oxide


Several methodologies are available for producing iron oxide for use as colorants, each with unique advantages and applications. Here's an overview of these methods.

  • Inverse Microemulsion. This technique involves forming a microemulsion where the water phase is dispersed in an organic phase, resulting in nanoparticles of controlled sizes. It's especially beneficial for creating iron oxide nanoparticles tailored with specific properties.
  • Sol-Gel Synthesis. Starting with a colloidal solution (sol) that serves as the precursor for an interconnected network (gel) of discrete particles or network polymers, this chemical process is adaptable, enabling the doping of iron oxide with other elements to modify its characteristics.

Flow Injection is a method commonly utilized in analytical chemistry, but its application in iron oxide synthesis is rare. This method injects reactants into a flowing stream to produce iron oxide particles.

Electrospray Synthesis leverages an electric field to generate fine particles from a liquid solution, allowing for precise control over the size and morphology of iron oxide nanoparticles.

  • Sonochemical Method. Utilizing ultrasound energy to prompt reactions, this technique is effective for generating iron oxide nanoparticles. The acoustic cavitation from ultrasound can create the extreme conditions necessary for these particles' formation.
  • Hydrothermal Synthesis. A popular method for producing various iron oxides involves processing raw materials under high water pressure and temperature in a sealed vessel, typically an autoclave, known for yielding high-purity and crystallinity materials.

Thermal Decomposition heats a precursor to break it down into iron oxide, often resulting in nanoparticles with superior control over size, shape, and crystallinity.

  • Coprecipitation Method. This method is among the most straightforward and efficient for synthesizing iron oxide nanoparticles. It entails the simultaneous precipitation of Fe2+ and Fe3+ ions in an alkaline medium.
  • Mechanical Milling. This solid-state technique mixes powders to create complex or mixed-phase materials, like spinel or magnetite.

Despite the array of methods for producing iron oxides, only a select few are viable for creating iron oxides suitable for semi-permanent pigment colorants. In the context of semi-permanent pigmentation, the choice of synthesis method profoundly affects the iron oxide's purity, particle size, morphology, and safety and appropriateness for cosmetic applications.

4. Use in the beauty industry


Certain production methods stand out for their viability in the beauty industry, particularly those that produce iron oxide suitable for semi-permanent makeup.

  • Sol-Gel Synthesis. This technique is favored for cosmetic applications because it can yield iron oxides with precise control over particle sizes and shapes. The sol-gel process is adept at creating iron oxide nanoparticles with high purity levels, essential for reducing the risk of adverse skin reactions in semi-permanent makeup applications.
  • Hydrothermal Synthesis. Hydrothermal synthesis is recognized for generating high-purity iron oxides; hydrothermal synthesis employs controlled temperature and pressure to produce particles with uniform and well-defined characteristics. Its ability to maintain purity and consistency makes it an excellent choice for crafting iron oxides for semi-permanent pigmentation.
  • Thermal Decomposition. Known for producing highly pure iron oxides with customizable particle sizes, thermal decomposition operates at high temperatures to eliminate impurities. This attribute is particularly crucial for products intended for skin application. Post-synthesis purification is necessary to ensure the iron oxides are appropriate for semi-permanent pigmentation use.
  • Sonochemical Method. Although less commonly utilized, the sonochemical method can generate small, uniform nanoparticles. With precise control and thorough purification, iron oxides manufactured via this method could be considered for semi-permanent pigmentation pigments, provided the scalability and particle characteristic control are adequately addressed.

Importance of Removing Impurities

It's imperative to underline that irrespective of the chosen synthesis method, any iron oxide destined for semi-permanent makeup application must be subjected to extensive purification to eliminate impurities, especially heavy metals. Additionally, achieving the correct particle size for cosmetic application involves finely milling the iron oxide, ensuring seamless application and minimizing the likelihood of adverse skin reactions.

Post-synthesis treatment, including sterilization and assessments for biocompatibility and allergenic potential, is indispensable. The end product must conform to stringent regulatory criteria for cosmetics to guarantee its safety and effectiveness.

Ultimately, selecting a synthesis method will hinge on various considerations, such as the specific attributes required of the iron oxide, the cost-effectiveness, scalability of the production process, and the manufacturer's proficiency in ensuring the purity and safety of the end product. As a professional in the field, the paramount goal is to balance these aspects with an unwavering commitment to the well-being and satisfaction of clients receiving semi-permanent pigmentation treatments.

5. Synthetic Production - A Standard


Many pigment producers that incorporate iron oxides in their products may claim to use “revolutionary” or “next-generation” production methods. It's essential to approach such claims with a healthy dose of skepticism. While some claims may be unfounded or exaggerated, others could represent genuine improvements, particularly in purification.

For instance, marketing descriptions of pigments containing iron oxides labeled as “synthetically produced” are not revealing anything groundbreaking. Synthetic production of iron oxides for the cosmetic industry, including pigment use, has been standard practice for decades, tracing back to at least the early to mid-20th century.

The transition from natural iron oxides, which are directly extracted from iron ore to synthetic variants was primarily driven by the ability of synthetic methods to yield purer, more consistent, and safer products. In cosmetics, especially for semi-permanent pigmentation where the stakes for purity and consistency are high, synthetic iron oxides have become indispensable. To date, there's no known producer extracting iron oxides for cosmetic pigments directly from iron ore due to the impracticality of controlling impurities, such as heavy metals, in natural forms, making synthetic production the preferred and standardized method.

Problematic Natural Methods

Producing iron oxides from natural sources might be more cost-effective due to the straightforward extraction and processing of the ore. However, the appeal of lower costs is significantly diminished by the disadvantages of cosmetic use, such as color inconsistency, impurities, and potential toxicity. Despite being more expensive, synthetic production offers precise control over the iron oxide's purity, particle size, and color — essential factors in applications like semi-permanent makeup where safety and consistency are paramount. The stringent requirements and superior quality of synthetically produced iron oxides justify the higher production costs.

Progress in Synthetic Production

While the synthetic production of iron oxides hasn't seen abrupt, revolutionary shifts, significant evolutionary improvements have enhanced their quality and safety.

  • Enhanced Purity and Consistency. Advances in synthetic methods have produced iron oxides with greater purity and uniform particle sizes, crucial for ensuring safety and consistency in cosmetics.
  • Customization of Particle Size and Shape. Progress in synthesis techniques, such as sol-gel, hydrothermal, and thermal decomposition, allows for creating iron oxides with specific particle sizes and shapes, catering to the nuanced needs of semi-permanent makeup.
  • Greener Synthesis Methods. The industry is moving towards more sustainable synthetic approaches that minimize waste and energy use, aligning with the broader trend toward environmental responsibility.
  • Regulatory Compliance. Synthetic production methods have evolved with tightening regulations around cosmetic ingredients to ensure that iron oxides meet stringent safety standards, including reducing heavy metal content and other impurities.

Though these advancements may not be labeled “revolutionary,” they represent meaningful progress, continually improving iron oxides' safety, efficacy, and environmental impact in semi-permanent pigmentation and broader cosmetic applications.

6. ECHA Compliant - An "Empty" Term


Referring to an iron oxide pigment as "ECHA compliant" can be misleading or a marketing gimmick. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is the authoritative entity overseeing the implementation and enforcement of REACH, among other chemical regulations within the EU. However, it's crucial to note that ECHA does not directly "issue" REACH compliance certifications but ensures its enactment and observance. As such, "ECHA compliant" lacks official recognition or definition.

The accurate and substantial terminology should be "REACH compliant." Adherence to REACH regulations is mandatory for a pigment to be marketed within the European Union. Since ECHA is responsible for monitoring compliance with REACH, any substance meeting the criteria set out by REACH effectively aligns with the regulatory standards upheld by ECHA. Therefore, although "ECHA compliant" might not be officially articulated, a pigment that satisfies REACH stipulations indeed conforms to the regulations enforced by ECHA.

Hence, while marketers might utilize "ECHA compliant" to imply regulatory conformity, the genuine, acknowledged term that accurately reflects adherence to EU chemical regulations is "REACH compliant." A REACH-compliant pigment is, by implication, in accord with the guidelines and rules imposed by ECHA.

Difference Between ECHA and REACH

ECHA, the European Chemicals Agency, is the regulatory body charged with enforcing chemical legislation across the European Union. It plays a pivotal role in enforcing various chemical regulations, including REACH.

REACH, standing for Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals, represents a comprehensive regulation by the European Union to enhance human health and environmental protection from the hazards associated with chemicals. REACH mandates that companies assess the risks and disseminate safety information concerning the substances they produce or import into the EU.

In essence, ECHA is the overseeing agency, whereas REACH constitutes one of the key regulations that ECHA enforces. This delineates a clear distinction between the regulatory body (ECHA) and the regulation itself (REACH).

REACH Compliance

REACH compliance does not explicitly target iron oxides for restriction. Still, it establishes a comprehensive framework for registering, evaluating, and managing substances to ensure their safety for human health and the environment. This regulation mandates that all chemicals, including iron oxides, undergo registration with ECHA, necessitating the submission of detailed information regarding their characteristics, applications, and guidelines for safe usage.

Although REACH does not dictate exact standards for the "purity" or "cleanliness" of iron oxides, it obligates identifying hazardous impurities and effectively managing associated risks. Companies must adhere to relevant restrictions and guarantee the safe utilization of these substances across the supply chain. Additional regulations, such as the EU Cosmetics Regulation, come into effect for iron oxides utilized in cosmetics, imposing stricter criteria for purity and human safety. Thus, while REACH does not outrightly limit iron oxides, it demands thorough safety evaluations and compliance with any pertinent restrictions to ensure their secure application.

Achieving REACH Compliance

Manufacturers with REACH compliance often note that sourcing high-quality iron oxide for pigments considerably eases the compliance process. In practical terms, compliance largely hinges on acquiring a detailed chemical analysis from a certified laboratory within the European Union. This analysis must verify that the iron oxide sample does not contain toxic elements surpassing REACH's specified thresholds.

Manufacturers must preserve documentation proving that the pigment composition meets established safety guidelines. Essentially, suppose the sourced iron oxide is of good quality and its chemical composition meets REACH's criteria for hazardous substances. In that case, achieving compliance becomes a matter of procedural diligence, reliant on accurate laboratory analysis and meticulous documentation. If the iron oxide is of notable quality, securing compliance is almost a given.

Producers vs. Brand Owners

Many brand owners in the pigment market label themselves as "producers," yet they do not directly manufacture their components nor possess the industrial capabilities needed for synthesizing or significantly altering raw materials like iron oxide. These brands typically function as intermediaries, acquiring pre-manufactured components from specialized global pigment manufacturers. This strategy enables them to concentrate on branding, marketing, and distribution, depending on their suppliers' established quality standards.

Reliance on Supplier Quality Standards

As intermediaries, brand owners heavily depend on their suppliers' reputations and quality assurances, trusting that the purchased iron oxide and other components satisfy purity and safety criteria. This dependence highlights the critical role of supplier selection in upholding product quality and safety, necessitating thorough vetting by brand owners to ensure materials meet regulatory and quality standards relevant to their market.

Capabilities of Actual Producers

Entities that own and operate manufacturing facilities and possess the requisite certifications can genuinely claim the capacity to modify or purify components like iron oxide. These producers have the technical expertise and regulatory approval to process raw materials, potentially eliminating undesirable impurities or tailoring properties to specific requirements. Their purification or modification claims are substantiated by the physical and chemical processes executable within their certified operations.

The notion of "non-compliance" is virtually inapplicable to iron oxide as it's not listed among substances restricted by REACH. Thus, iron oxide, as a raw material, is generally deemed REACH-compliant unless it comprises impurities or additives under REACH's restrictions. Although REACH does not prescribe explicit "quality standards" for iron oxide's use as a colorant in terms of purity or efficacy, the compliance of pigment formulations could be jeopardized if they contain other components restricted by REACH. Compliance, therefore, is contingent not solely on the iron oxide employed but on the overall composition of the pigment and its conformity to REACH regulations.

7. Conclusions


Iron Oxide in the Cosmetic Industry

The notion of "revolutionary transformations" in producing iron oxides for semi-permanent makeup is predominantly a marketing narrative rather than a scientific advancement. The chemical composition of iron oxides used in cosmetics does not differ from those utilized in other industries. There is no exclusive "cosmetic grade" iron oxide; the same essential compounds are employed across various sectors. The distinguishing factors for cosmetic applications lie in the rigorous purity, particle size, and safety requirements.

Quality and Compliance of Iron Oxides

Pigment producers are tasked with sourcing iron oxides that fulfill specific standards: high quality, small and uniform particle size, and adherence to legal thresholds for toxic elements. Present-day iron oxides are all synthetically created in laboratories, rendering natural extraction methods from iron ore obsolete since the mid-20th century. Thus, assertions of employing "synthetically produced iron oxide" are superfluous, as modern production leaves no room for alternatives.

Production Methods

Critical methodologies for generating iron oxides suitable for semi-permanent makeup encompass Sol-Gel Synthesis, Hydrothermal Synthesis, Thermal Decomposition, and the Sonochemical Method. Although these fundamental techniques have remained stable, enhancements in particle size control and purity augmentation have been critical for ensuring the safety and efficacy of pigments in cosmetics.

Regulatory Compliance

In the European Union, pigment substances must comply with REACH regulations, which are enforced by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). Consequently, a pigment's "REACH compliance" intrinsically signifies its conformity with ECHA's regulatory standards. Using "ECHA compliant" as a distinct categorization is misleading and unnecessary.

Iron Oxide Compliance with REACH

Notably, REACH does not explicitly limit the use of iron oxides. Compliance concerns could emerge from additional components in the pigment formulation that might be subject to REACH restrictions.

Claims of Purity and Quality

While many producers assert their iron oxides are "purified," "of high quality," and "free from toxic elements," such claims require independent validation. Generally, producers lacking manufacturing facilities obtain sufficiently high-quality iron oxide from global suppliers. Claims of further "purifying" iron oxide by these producers are often unsubstantiated unless they possess specialized equipment and processes.

In summary, the cosmetic industry demands high-quality, pure iron oxides, especially within the semi-permanent makeup domain. However, marketing claims frequently distort the scientific and production reality. Professionals and consumers must discern the truth behind these assertions, understanding the significance of the synthetic output, regulatory adherence, and the extent of innovation in producing cosmetic-grade iron oxides. Above all, unwavering commitment to safety and quality standards is essential for ensuring end-users' welfare.
 
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Mariana
Thursday, Feb 15, 2024

I have studied PMU already years ago and practiced for years, too. However, I must say this article gave me a lot of new information.


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