Hybrid pigments

Videos

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Natural PMU...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, Organic growth...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Articles

Powder Brows

Procedure, Techniques, Pigments, Aftercare...

Microblading

Procedure, Technique, Patterns, Supplies, Retention...

Ombre Brows

Soft Ombre, Pixels, Whip, Pendulum techniques...

Hairstrokes

Nano Brows, Hairstrokes patterns, Cashmiere Brows...

Combo Brows

Powder + Miroblading, Powder + Hairstrokes...

Marketing

Offline marketing, Online marketing, website, domains...

Practical Tips

Tutorials, Action plans, Point-by-poin advice...

Removal

Saline, Lactic Acid, Laser removal procedure...

Facebook

Business account, Ads, Targeting...

Instagram

Organic growth, Fake followers, ads...

Pricing

1. Background

 
In preparing this article, we conducted interviews with over 24 experienced semi-permanent makeup (PMU) artists. Each artist has a minimum of four years of professional experience, with Powder Brows being a key service offered throughout their careers. To ensure scientific accuracy, their insights have been meticulously reviewed by a chemist and a dermatologist. The majority of these artists operate within the European Union, with five from the UK and two from the US. Notably, their observations were consistent regardless of their geographical locations.

2. Hybrid Pigments - misconceotions

In the semi-permanent makeup industry, there's a widespread misunderstanding about hybrid pigments. Many practitioners think that hybrid pigments are simple mixtures of organic and inorganic substances. They believe creating a hybrid pigment involves adding an organic toner or modifier to an inorganic base, or vice versa, and that mixing organic and inorganic pigments together produces a "hybrid." 

However, this is a misconception. What is often created are merely mixtures, not genuine hybrid pigments. From a chemical perspective, these mixtures are composed of liquid carriers holding different molecules of distinct substances. Although these substances occupy the same space, they don't interact at the molecular level to form new chemical bonds or create new molecules. This misunderstanding is exacerbated by some manufacturers who loosely use the term “hybrid” for marketing purposes, labeling their products as such by merely incorporating a minimal amount of the opposite substance to technically classify the blend as “hybrid.”

3. Different Hybrid Pigments

 
Contrary to popular belief, true hybrid pigments are not simple physical mixtures of organic and inorganic materials. They are far more complex. In genuine hybrid pigments, organic and inorganic components are chemically bonded at the molecular level, resulting in new molecules with altered bonds. These "hybrid" molecules incorporate both organic and inorganic elements in a single new molecule.  Understanding the intricate chemical nature of authentic hybrid pigments can greatly enhance the quality and durability of the work for PMU artists. Recognizing the difference allows artists to select their pigments wisely, yielding more consistent and dependable outcomes. 

Demystifying "Hybrid" Pigments 
Many artists, particularly those less versed in chemistry and physics, perceive hybrid pigments as a mysterious "third category" of pigments. These individuals may regard hybrids as a novel and superior alternative to traditional organic or inorganic pigments, often due to a misunderstanding of what a "hybrid" pigment truly is. 

In reality, the hybrid aspect of a pigment, involving a mix of organic and inorganic elements, doesn't alter the fundamental nature of its primary colorants. Pigments, hybrid or otherwise, typically comprise essential colorants like red, yellow, and black, with black often being the most dominant. Thus, evaluating a "hybrid" pigment should still focus on the properties of its main organic or inorganic coloring agents.

4. Pseudo-Hybrids

The Marketing Aspect of "Hybrid" Pigments

Labeling a pigment as "hybrid" isn't necessarily about enhancing its quality; sometimes, it's merely a marketing strategy. For instance, the introduction of inorganic titanium dioxide into an organic pigment or corrector to classify it as "hybrid" is often not beneficial, especially for brow pigments. In many cases, the inclusion of titanium dioxide is seen as a drawback, particularly in pigments for initial procedures rather than correctors or modifiers. 

Why Producers Do It 

This trend persists partly because consumers typically lack deep knowledge in this area and because pigment production for the beauty industry is not strictly regulated. Pigments are versatile, used in a variety of applications from food to clothing and eyebrow coloring, without specific classifications for beauty use. This lack of specific standards allows producers to adopt more creative, and sometimes misleading, strategies. 

Cosmetic Change vs. New Products 

The relaxed regulatory environment enables manufacturers to rebrand their pigments as "hybrid" by merely adding a small amount of the opposite substance. While this can occasionally improve the pigment's properties, it might also reduce its quality or safety. It's crucial to critically assess claims about "new, improved hybrid formulas" that may not necessarily enhance the product and could sometimes degrade it.  Labeling and Real Information 

The labeling requirements for these products are often loose, meaning a label might not truly reflect the pigment's composition or efficacy. Therefore, it's vital to approach claims about "hybrid" pigments with skepticism, especially those promising the best of both worlds. A critical and informed approach is necessary when evaluating these products.

5. Solution to “Red” Brows

Science Meets Technique 

When properly formulated, "real" hybrid pigments that blend organic and inorganic elements can indeed offer significant benefits. This is achieved by scientifically combining the positive attributes of organic compounds with the stability of inorganic elements. For instance, organic elements can be used to mitigate the shortcomings of inorganic ones, and vice versa. To illustrate this, let's explore a specific scenario. 

Solving the “Red Brow” Mystery 

A prime example of a genuine hybrid pigment is one that forms a protective layer of iron oxide via the silanization process. Understanding this process is key to resolving the common issue of brows turning red over time. 

Iron Oxides in the Skin 

When iron oxides, such as Fe2O3 (hematite) and Fe3O4 (magnetite), are introduced into the skin as colorants in semi-permanent pigments, they can undergo various biochemical and physicochemical changes. Although these oxides are typically stable, they can react under certain conditions, leading to color instability. 

Factors Contributing to Oxidation 

The skin is a dynamic environment, teeming with biological molecules, enzymes, and cells. Ferritin, a protein that stores iron, can significantly influence the oxidation of iron oxides. It binds with iron ions and facilitates their oxidation. Additionally, environmental elements like UV light and internal factors such as pH levels and enzymatic activity can also contribute to this process. 

6. Red Brows: Chemical Explanation

  Iron Oxide Reactions in the Skin  In the skin, iron oxides can interact with the protein ferritin, leading to the formation of ferric ions (Fe3+). These ions may undergo a series of redox reactions with oxygen and other elements, resulting in a shift in the iron's oxidation state. This alteration can cause the pigment to change its optical properties, manifesting as a shift from its original color to a reddish or rusty hue. The general simplified reaction is: 

Fe2O3 + ferritin → Fe3+ + O2 + other products 

This reaction alters the iron oxide's structure and bonding, leading to the "red brow" phenomenon. 

Understanding Ferritin's Role 

Ferritin is crucial in this context; it's like a biological magnet that attracts iron ions and facilitates chemical reactions leading to the degradation of iron oxide pigments. The longer a pigment stays in the skin, the more it's exposed to the effects of ferritin, increasing the likelihood of a color shift. 

Ferritin's Complex Structure and Function 

Ferritin's role goes beyond just attracting iron; it stores iron in a non-toxic form within a complex protein structure made of 24 subunits. It forms a nanocage holding iron ions, phosphate, and hydroxide, resembling ferrihydrite, and can store up to 4500 iron (Fe3+) ions. When ferritin aggregates, it transforms into a toxic form called hemosiderin. 

The Shift in Iron Oxide Pigments 

The interaction between iron oxides in semi-permanent pigments and bodily ferritin can trigger chemical reactions, altering the iron's oxidation state. This change affects how the pigment reflects light, leading to color changes to reddish, pinkish, or rusty hues. 

Stabilizing Iron Oxide with Silica Coating 

To combat this issue, chemists devised hybrid pigments by bonding mineral iron oxide molecules with organic polymetal silica, creating a protective barrier similar to an industrial metal coating. This silica coating acts like a shield, preventing the iron oxide from reacting with ferritin and staving off the red color transformation post-application. 

Protective Coating Explained 

This coating is achieved by merging iron oxide with organic polymetal silica. Originally developed for industrial use to protect metals from environmental damage, this technique uses silica-based coatings like tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) and mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane (MPTMS) to modify the surface of iron oxide nanoparticles. These coatings have been proven to provide stability against environmental factors and high temperatures. Now adapted for semi-permanent makeup, the silica coating acts as a defensive layer, safeguarding the iron oxide from ferritin and mitigating the risk of pigment color change after application.

    

7. Silanization

In materials science, silanization refers to a surface modification technique used to enhance the chemical stability and functionality of iron oxide by bonding it with organic polymetal silica. This process is crucial for creating advanced, stable, and functional materials. 

Overview of the Process 

Silane Coupling Agent Preparation: Common agents like Tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) and mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane (MPTMS) are prepared in a solvent, typically alcohol, sometimes with water and a catalyst.  Surface Activation: Iron oxide particles are cleaned and activated, often with an acid or base, to ensure effective bonding with the silane agents.  Silanization Process: The activated particles are mixed with the silane solution under controlled conditions to bond the silica groups to the iron oxide surface, creating a covalent bond. 

Chemical Reactions 

The specific reactions vary with the silane agent used. For TEOS, the reaction might be: 

Fe2O3+(EtO)4Si→Fe2O3−Si(OEt)3 

Here, "EtO" represents the ethoxy group. 

For MPTMS, the reaction could be: 

Fe2O3+(CH3O)3Si−CH2−CH2−CH2−SH→Fe2O3−Si(OCH3)2−CH2−CH2−CH2−SH 

In this case, "Si(OCH3)2" indicates the bonded coupling agent, and "SH" is a functional group for further modifications. 

Outcomes and Benefits

The silanization process creates a protective silica-based coating around the iron oxide, effectively shielding it from reactive substances like ferritin. This protection is particularly vital in semi-permanent makeup pigments, where stability and color retention are essential.

8. Iron Oxide Fused with Carbon

 
"True Hybrid" Pigment Creation via Carbothermal Reduction  The creation of a "true hybrid" pigment involves more than just mixing ingredients; it necessitates a chemical transformation. The carbothermal reduction process exemplifies this by catalyzing a reaction that results in a new, stable molecular structure. This method produces Black Iron Oxide fused with Carbon, a stable, non-magnetic black pigment distinct from simple mixtures. 

Explaining Black Iron Oxide Fused with Carbon 

Black Iron Oxide, chemically known as Fe3O4, can be combined with carbon to form a stable, non-magnetic black pigment. This pigment is often listed as "CI 77266 + 77499" in the ingredients of semi-permanent makeup pigments. 

Carbothermal Reduction Process 

To achieve this fusion, the carbothermal reduction process is employed. This involves heating a mixture of iron oxide and carbon to high temperatures in an environment devoid of reactive gases (an inert atmosphere). Carbon acts as a reducing agent in this reaction, stabilizing the iron oxide and removing its magnetic properties. The resulting compound, often denoted as C Fe3O4, signifies the integration of carbon into the iron oxide structure. 

9. Carbothermal Reduction

Carbothermal reduction is a process typically conducted at high temperatures within an inert atmosphere, using gases like nitrogen or argon to prevent unwanted oxidation. This method involves solid-state reactions with the reactants in solid form. Elemental carbon, often as graphite or charcoal, serves as the reducing agent. 

Process Overview 

The procedure starts with accurately weighing and mixing elemental carbon with Black Iron Oxide (Fe3O4). The mixture is then heated to temperatures between 800°C and 1300°C. At these elevated temperatures, the carbon reduces Fe3O4 to form elemental iron (Fe) and gaseous byproducts like carbon dioxide (CO2) or carbon monoxide (CO). 

Chemical Equations

The reaction with carbon and Fe3O4 is represented by the following balanced chemical equations: 

3Fe3O4 + 4C → 4CO2 + 9Fe or 

3Fe3O4 + 4C → 4CO + 9Fe 

During heating, carbon reacts with Fe3O4 at the surfaces of their particles. The produced CO2 or CO escapes as gas, leaving behind elemental iron and a stable iron-carbon compound, typically represented as C Fe3O4. 

Significance in Semi-Permanent Makeup 

The resulting black pigment, identified as CI 77266 + 77499, is highly regarded in the semi-permanent makeup industry. Its benefits include being non-magnetic, possessing a deep, opaque black hue, and being stable and relatively easy to implant into the skin.  Understanding this process and the nature of the pigments it produces helps PMU artists make informed choices about the materials they use, ensuring they provide quality, lasting results for their clients.

10. Conclusions

 
The term "hybrid pigments" is often used loosely in the semi-permanent makeup industry, lacking a precise definition. This ambiguity arises from the absence of specific criteria defining "hybrid" pigments in the beauty sector. Producers frequently add a small portion of an opposing element to their organic or inorganic pigments, label these products as "hybrids," and complete the necessary documentation. As a result, many pigments marketed as "hybrids" are better described as "pseudo-hybrids," retaining the primary characteristics of their original organic or inorganic components. 

Understanding the actual composition and nature of these pigments is essential for PMU artists to predict how they will perform in applications. In contrast to these pseudo-hybrids, "true" hybrid pigments are the result of a molecular fusion between organic and inorganic elements. 

Silanization is a key example of true hybridization. This process coats iron oxide molecules with organic silica, offering a solution to the interaction between standard mineral iron and the protein ferritin in the skin, which can cause undesirable color changes. Silanized iron oxide remains stable and does not react with ferritin, thus maintaining its intended color. 

Carbothermal reduction is another method producing genuine hybrid pigments. By chemically bonding black iron oxide with carbon, this process creates stable, opaque pigments that avoid undesired bluish hues, addressing the common problem of "blue brows."  Both silanization and carbothermal reduction involve transformations at the molecular level, distinguishing them as authentic examples of "true" hybrid pigments. This understanding is crucial for PMU artists seeking to deliver quality, lasting results with predictable outcomes.