How to make better Hairstrokes brows?

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1. Background

Foundation of Research and Expertise

As the Hairstrokes technique continues to captivate the beauty industry, we've seen an increasing curiosity about refining and improving this method. This article collates insights and recommendations from in-depth interviews with 21 seasoned pigmentation artists, each of whom has been practicing the Hairstrokes technique, among other methods, for over a year. These artists, boasting over four years of experience in the field, have contributed their knowledge to research projects conducted between 2021 and 2023, which are still ongoing.

Diverse Professional Backgrounds

Our interviewed experts hail from various regions, with 16 based in the European Union, 3 in the United Kingdom, and 2 in the United States. A significant number of these artists, 17 to be precise, have prior experience in microblading, while 14 have expertise in microblading and powder brows. This diversity in practice and geography lends a comprehensive perspective to our findings.

Objective and Methodology

The core objective of this article is to highlight strategies and techniques employed by proficient Hairstrokes artists that have proven to enhance the quality of Hairstrokes brows. These insights are not just theoretical but are grounded in actual practice and have been consistently validated by most of our interviewed professionals. We've distilled these practices into concrete suggestions, focusing on those with a clear consensus among the artists.

2. Emphasizing Natural Beauty

At its core, the Hairstrokes technique is fundamentally about accentuating a person's natural beauty. While it might sound like a common statement echoed in various cosmetic practices, it holds a profound truth in Hairstrokes. Unlike microblading or powder brows, Hairstrokes demand an in-depth analysis of the client's natural eyebrow hair.

The Importance of Pattern Matching

The success of a Hairstrokes procedure hinges on the artist's ability to choose a pattern that complements the client's natural hair structure. This meticulous approach ensures the final look enhances and harmonizes with the client's brows. The goal is always to significantly uplift the client's appearance, achievable only when the artificial strokes seamlessly blend with the natural hair pattern.

Decision-Making Based on Hair Characteristics

Experienced artists are keenly aware that the Hairstrokes technique may not suit everyone, especially those with distinct hair types. Clients with long, curly, and robust eyebrow hair often present a unique challenge. The disparity between these natural hair characteristics and the simulated strokes can lead to a less-than-ideal outcome. Many artists, prioritizing the quality of their work, choose to decline the procedure in such cases rather than compromise on the results. This careful consideration reflects the artist's commitment to maintaining the integrity of the Hairstrokes method and ensuring client satisfaction.

3. Start with the Pattern in Mind

Avoiding Beginner Mistakes

A common pitfall for those new to the Hairstrokes technique is beginning the procedure by merely applying a learned pattern onto the client's brow area. Seasoned artists emphasize the importance of recommending the Hairstrokes procedure only if they can envision a suitable pattern for the specific client.

Tailored Approach Based on Individual Analysis

This personalized approach thoroughly analyzes the client's skin type, natural eyebrow hair, and facial structure. The artist then mentally sifts through their repertoire of patterns, seeking one that aligns perfectly with the client's unique features. The decision to proceed is based on this match; if a fitting pattern is not visualized, the artist opts not to perform the procedure.

Importance of Three-Level Forward Thinking

Experienced artists underscore the significance of envisioning the outcome at three distinct stages.

Immediate Result. Visualizing the appearance right after the procedure.
Healed Result. Anticipating how the brows will look about 6-8 weeks later, once fully healed.
PRC (Perpetual Retouching Cycle) Stage. Contemplating the long-term appearance after 3-5 retouches.
This multi-level foresight is critical in ensuring that the chosen pattern will look good immediately and age gracefully with each retouching cycle.
Honesty and Professionalism as Key Virtues

While some trainers and advocates of Hairstrokes might suggest selling clients on other techniques before introducing Hairstrokes, the consensus among top artists is that honesty and professionalism should prevail. Artists should candidly communicate their vision for the client's brows, including how they expect them to heal and what outcomes are realistically achievable. Setting clear expectations and being upfront about the procedure's limitations are paramount in maintaining trust and ensuring client satisfaction.

4. Inception Point Strategy

Pattern Design Based on Facial Structure

Several artists shared insights into their initial training in creating Hairstrokes brows, emphasizing the importance of pattern design based on the brow area. Commonly, the brow is divided into several sections (usually 5-7), either of equal width or varying slightly. This segmentation forms the framework for placing the main strokes.

Two Practical Approaches

Guiding Lines Within Brow Design. The primary guiding lines are drawn within the designed brow area, and additional lines connect to these main lines on both brows. This approach forms a structured yet adaptable pattern.

Inception Point Outside the Brow. Alternatively, some artists start by marking an inception point outside the brow, typically at the center of a horizontal line extending from the tear duct to the middle of the face. From here, 'waves' are drawn towards the brow's backbone. This strategy ensures that all main guiding lines, usually the lower lines connecting to the brow's backbone, follow the same direction.

Emphasis on Facial Analysis

Experienced artists underscore the importance of analyzing the client's facial structure and skull shape. The Hairstrokes brow should not be viewed as a separate element merely placed on the client's face but as an integral part of their facial anatomy, in harmony with their skull shape and bone structure.

Advantages of Targeting the Inception Point

The second approach offers dual benefits, focusing on a specific inception point on the client's face.
Correct Direction of Main Lines. It ensures that the main lines are ideally directed for the chosen pattern.
Harmony with Facial Features. By targeting all main lines to a singular point, the pattern and the client's facial features are naturally symmetric and balanced. This approach prevents random or asymmetrical line placement, promoting a harmonious integration of the brow with the overall face.

5. Shading Can Be Done

Addressing Concerns Over Blurring

Many artists transitioning to the Hairstrokes technique from other methods, particularly microblading, did so to overcome issues like line blurring. This problem in microblading is often attributed to the nature of the linear wounds created by the technique. Consequently, there was initial apprehension among these artists about incorporating shading into Hairstrokes, fearing it might exacerbate blurring.

Shading is Compatible with Hairstrokes

However, this apprehension is largely unfounded. Shading can effectively complement Hairstrokes, provided it is applied correctly. The key is to avoid shading directly over the strokes. Instead, shading should be strategically placed between the lines.

Technique for Effective Shading

Experienced Hairstrokes artists who use shading regularly have developed specific techniques for its application.

Location of Shading. Shading is typically used to emphasize the "backbone" area of the brow, adding depth and dimension.
Shading Towards the Brow Head. As the artist approaches the front of the brow, they often slow down the machine's speed without increasing hand speed. This technique creates a pixelation effect with more space between each dot, ensuring a softer, more natural look.
Intense Shading Near the Backbone. Conversely, closer to the brow's backbone, the shading becomes denser to add definition. Directional Shading. It's advisable to shade in the same direction as the guiding strokes of the brow to maintain coherence in the overall design.
Balance in Intensity. The powdered or shaded areas should always be lighter than the strokes themselves, ensuring that the strokes remain the prominent feature of the brow.

Careful Pattern Design for Shading

For shading to be effective, adequate space must be within the brow design. This requirement means that the line pattern should not be overly dense. Spacing the lines appropriately allows for effective shading without risking oversaturation or compromising the clarity of the Hairstrokes.

6. Hair Removal is OK

Shift from Hyperrealism to Functional Realism

The evolution of the Hairstrokes technique has been marked by a significant shift from the hyperrealistic approach of its early days to a more commercially viable and aesthetically pleasing style. Initially, Hairstrokes artists aimed to replicate the natural, overgrown appearance of brows, demonstrating their ability to mimic reality. However, this pursuit of hyperrealism often limited commercial success, as the results didn't always align with client preferences for groomed and shaped brows.

Influence of Microblading on Modern Hairstrokes

The second wave of Hairstrokes, initiated around 2023 by experienced microblading artists, introduced a transformative approach to brow shaping. This new methodology incorporates elements from microblading, particularly in shaping the brow's tail. Artists began to elevate the brow's tail end (point no 3), creating a subtle lifting effect that enhances the client's overall appearance. This change often requires removing or tweezing natural brow hair in the tail section to achieve the desired shape.

Embracing Groomed Natural Brows

This fundamental change characterizes the new era of Hairstrokes, which now emphasizes a more groomed and natural look. The goal is no longer to replicate a completely natural, overgrown brow but to create a semi-permanent solution that appears well-maintained and natural. This approach aligns more closely with contemporary beauty standards, where clients seek a balance between natural appeal and aesthetic enhancement.

Thus, the updated approach in Hairstrokes reflects an adaptation to modern aesthetic preferences and clients' practical needs. It represents a departure from the original hyperrealistic ideal towards a more groomed, aesthetically appealing brow style. This evolution highlights the technique's versatility and ability to integrate elements from other brow pigmentation methods, like microblading, to achieve a look that resonates with current beauty trends.

7. Pay Attention to Unique Details

Personalized Approach in Hairstrokes

When practicing the Hairstrokes technique, it's crucial to tailor the approach to each client's unique features. This personalized strategy involves multiple levels of analysis, ensuring that the final brow design complements the client's natural attributes.

Level 1: Suitability of Patterns for Client Profile

The first level of analysis involves evaluating whether pre-learned patterns are suitable for the specific client. This step is particularly important for artists transitioning from other techniques, such as powder brows, who might have learned patterns more suited to Asian clients. Applying these patterns to clients with different brow structures, like American or European clients, can produce unsatisfactory results. Therefore, it’s essential to critically assess if the learned patterns can be adapted effectively for each client.

Level 2: Natural Hair Structure and Growth Direction

The second level thoroughly examines the client's natural hair structure and growth direction. This includes recognizing unique characteristics and ensuring that any chosen pattern can be modified to align with these idiosyncrasies. However, it’s important to note that while modifications are necessary, the main guiding lines of the chosen pattern should remain relatively stable. Creativity and adaptability are exercised primarily in placing additional lines and not altering the pattern's fundamental structure.

Level 3: Addressing Sparse Areas

The final analysis level focuses on enhancing areas where the client's natural brow is sparse or has "holes." In these cases, it is vital to adjust the pattern and application technique to fill these gaps seamlessly and maintain a natural and cohesive appearance.

The Importance of a Structured Approach

Seasoned Hairstrokes artists emphasize the importance of having a clear pattern before beginning the procedure. While creativity and adaptation to the client's unique features are encouraged, these should not lead to an unstructured or random application of strokes. The successful creation of hairstrokes brows hinges on balancing following a structured pattern and making thoughtful modifications to cater to each client's needs.

8. Mastering Gradient

Critical Role of Gradients in Hairstrokes

Experienced artists in permanent makeup agree that executing gradients in hairstrokes brows is crucial for achieving high-quality results. A well-executed gradient adds depth and dimension, making the brows appear more natural and harmonious with the client's facial features.

Avoiding Abrupt Line Endings

A common pitfall in hairstrokes brows is the abrupt ending of lines, which can give the brows an unnatural, rigid appearance, often described as resembling "trees" or "fish bones." To avoid this, artists emphasize the importance of smooth transitions at the ends of the strokes. This technique ensures the lines blend seamlessly into the natural brow, enhancing the multi-dimensional effect.

Considering Skull and Bone Structure

A pivotal aspect of creating effective gradients in hairstrokes brows involves considering the client's skull and bone structure. This approach leads to two types of gradient applications.

Intra-Line Gradient. This involves creating a gradient within each stroke, ensuring that the color density varies smoothly along the length of the stroke. The goal is to mimic the natural variation in eyebrow hair color, providing a more realistic and refined appearance.
Brow-Level Gradient. This broader approach emphasizes certain sections of the brow more than others. The decision on which sections to highlight depends largely on the natural growth of the client’s brow hair and skull structure. This technique aims to enhance the overall shape and look of the brow in a way that complements the client's facial features.

Implementing Pixelated Shadows

An additional technique artists use is applying pixelated shadows beneath the horizontal guiding lines of the brow. This strategy is based on the understanding that light strikes the brow from above. Artists can create a more realistic and naturally lit appearance by adding subtle shading in strategic areas.

A Blend of Artistry and Technique

Creating high-quality hairstrokes brows is an art form that demands mastery, attention to detail, and a deep understanding of both facial anatomy and artistic principles. The process involves a complex interplay of techniques, including gradient creation within strokes, shading, and pixelated shadows, all tailored to enhance the client's unique features. This level of complexity underscores the importance of professional training and practice in perfecting the hairstrokes technique.

9. Conclusions

Hairstrokes brows present a more complex learning curve than traditional microblading due to the intricate details involved in their creation. Here are essential considerations for artists.

Understanding Natural Hair Structure

To achieve the best hairstrokes results, an in-depth analysis of the client's natural brow hair is crucial. This ensures that the selected pattern accentuates the client's natural beauty, aligning with their unique hair structure and growth patterns.

Starting with a Pattern in Mind

The success of hairstrokes begins with choosing a pattern that complements the client's facial features. Artists should envision how the pattern will look immediately after the procedure, its appearance after healing, and following multiple retouches.

Inception Point Strategy

Employing an inception point strategy is vital for creating symmetrical and harmonious brows. This strategy involves starting from a specific point on the face and ensuring all guiding lines in the brow pattern align naturally with the client's facial structure.

Shading Can Be Done

Shading enhances the natural appearance of hairstrokes brows when applied correctly. Strategic placement between strokes, avoiding oversaturation, is key to maintaining a natural look.

Hair Removal Is Okay

Removing natural brow hair is acceptable to achieve the desired shape in hairstrokes, aligning with the trend towards groomed, natural-looking brows rather than overgrown appearances.

Paying Attention to Unique Details

Tailoring hairstrokes brows to each client's unique features is imperative. This involves a detailed analysis of their natural hair structure, growth direction, and facial anatomy to customize the pattern accordingly.

Gradients Are Important

Incorporating gradients within each stroke is crucial for high-quality hairstrokes brows, adding depth and realism to achieve a more natural look. Artists should ensure smooth transitions in color density along each stroke.

These guidelines underscore the importance of attention to detail, customization, and technique mastery in creating hairstrokes brows, highlighting the need for thorough training and practice.