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How to combine Hairstrokes with Powder Brows in Brow head

Dec 11, 2023, Update: Dec 11, 2023, author: Hairstrokes.com / Holistic PMU
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"In the world of brows, exceptional artists recognize the significance of blending different techniques and styles. A key example of this is the strategic addition of hairstrokes, particularly in the 'head' section of the brow, which can significantly enhance the look of powder brows."

1. Background


This article gathered valuable insights from a panel of 23 world-class artists specializing in Permanent Makeup (PMU) and microblading. These experts contributed through online questionnaires and live chat interviews conducted in 2021 and early 2023. Each artist on our panel boasts over four years of extensive experience in the field, with a particular focus on mastering the technical aspects of the styles and techniques discussed here for a minimum of four years.

The panel's geographic diversity adds a broad perspective to our findings. While most are based in the European Union and the UK, we also have significant contributions from six United States and Latin American artists. This range of locations enriches the insights and techniques explored in our research, providing a comprehensive view of current trends and best practices in the PMU and microblading industry.

2. Mixed techniques and styles


Breaking Down Barriers Between Techniques

In the PMU industry, beginners often draw strict lines between different techniques and styles, leading to a hesitancy to explore new methods. Our research indicates that even seasoned artists initially find new techniques daunting, perceiving them as "too difficult" or "complicated." Such a mindset limits the artist's willingness to embrace unfamiliar methods, often under the rationale that these techniques don't suit certain clients.

Fundamental Techniques in PMU

At the core of PMU and SPMU lie two cornerstone techniques: Powder Brows and microblading. Microblading stands out for its uniqueness, resisting classification as a mere subcategory. Conversely, various styles achieved with a PMU machine, including numerous “Ombré” styles, are essentially variations or subcategories of the Powder Brows technique. As noted by PMU Hub, "Ombré powder brows are a subcategory of powder brows, defined by a specific shading pattern.”

The Rise of Hairstrokes Technique

Since early 2023, the Hairstrokes technique has gained increasing popularity. Three main factors contribute to this trend:

  • Innovative Artistic and Natural-Looking Patterns. The development of new, more natural-looking patterns in Hairstrokes.
  • Integration with Powdering Style. A shift from viewing Hairstrokes as a contrasting method to microblading to merging it with powdering styles.
  • Challenges with Microblading’s PRC. The growing realization that the perpetual retouching cycle in microblading is not sustainable.

This evolution in technique and perception has led to a significant reclassification, with many artists now recognizing Hairstrokes as a third primary technique alongside Powder Brows and Microblading.

Understanding “Combo Brows”

The 'Combo Brows' concept emerges as a natural progression from mastering individual PMU techniques. Essentially, 'Combo Brows' refer to eyebrows that are crafted using a combination of two or more techniques or styles. For example, merging microblading with Powder Brows, or integrating the Hairstrokes Technique with Powder Brows, both result in what we term as “Combo Brows.”

Mastering the Art of Combination

It's important to understand that 'Combo Brows' is not a standalone technique to be learned separately. Instead, it's about creatively blending the techniques and styles you are already proficient in. However, the art of effectively combining different techniques carries its own set of nuances.

Holistic Understanding is Key

We've noticed in our observations of students who have undergone multiple training sessions that there can be a lack of a comprehensive understanding. This sometimes leads to combinations that don't optimally exploit the strengths of each technique. To master 'Combo Brows,' it is essential to have a holistic grasp of how different styles and techniques complement each other, ensuring that their combination enhances rather than detracts from the desired outcome.

3. Powder Brows + Hairstrokes


Elevating Powder Brows with Hairstrokes In the upcoming sections, we will explore the strategic addition of hairstrokes to Powder Brows, a method often recommended by experienced artists to enhance their visual appeal and natural look. Interestingly, even the inclusion of a single hairstroke transforms Powder Brows into what is known as "Combo Brows." These can also be called "Combined Powder Brows" or "Powder Brows and Hairstroke Combo." While these terms vary, the fundamental technique remains consistent.

Determining When to Add Hairstrokes The decision to add hairstrokes to Powder Brows depends on specific brow characteristics. It's particularly useful in cases where the natural brow hair is sparse or a part of the brow appears less full, often at the brow's head. This approach is most effective when the other brow sections, like the middle and tail, have relatively normal hair growth.

Merging Hairstrokes with Powdering

When integrating hairstrokes with Powder Brows, the hairstrokes serve as an enhancement rather than the primary technique. Most of the brow retains the powdered appearance, with hairstrokes more visible in selected sections. This combination doesn't require a detailed overall hairstrokes pattern for the entire brow; rather, the hairstrokes complement the powdering to create a more nuanced and natural effect.

4. Challenges in Brow Head Section


Limitations of Just Powdering

Often, relying solely on powdering and shaded ombré effects for the brow's head section doesn't yield a seamless appearance post-healing. Novice artists might overlook this, resulting in brows that appear to start abruptly where the natural hair begins. Complicating matters is the fact that the skin in the brow's head section is often thicker than in other areas, making pigment application more challenging and highlighting the discrepancy.

Impact of Overplucking

Clients who have habitually overplucked their brows face a reduced likelihood of hair regrowth. In such cases, simply powdering the head section can starkly contrast the rest of the brow. This is often a long-standing issue, as many clients may not recognize the aesthetic problems caused by thinning at the brow's start.

Adherence to the Correct Starting Line

Experienced artists emphasize the importance of correctly mapping the brows, even if clients initially resist the recommended starting line. The consensus among our expert panel is to advocate for the aesthetically correct starting line firmly. Clients often come to appreciate this approach, especially after receiving positive feedback post-procedure.

Dealing with Naturally "Missing Heads”

In situations where clients have not overplucked, but their natural brow starting point is not aesthetically ideal, seasoned artists suggest choosing an "unnatural" starting line for a better outcome. Achieving aesthetic perfection sometimes necessitates enhancing natural hair growth patterns.

The Importance of Minor Adjustments

Recognizing that natural hair growth can be asymmetrical or less than ideal is crucial. A small adjustment in the brow's starting point can significantly enhance the overall facial aesthetic. As a professional, you should prioritize the best outcome for your client, even if it initially contradicts their preference, advocating for a result that enhances their overall appearance.

5. Determining the Starting Lines


Establishing the Starting Line

Determining the ideal starting line for brows is crucial to creating a balanced and aesthetically pleasing look. While the methods may vary, one principle stands out among professional artists: the distance between the beginnings of the brows should be narrower than the gap between the innermost edges of the lacrimal caruncles (the small pinkish triangles inside the eyes). If you measure the distance between these inner eye corners and apply it to the brow level, reducing this measurement enhances the brows' aesthetic appeal.

How Much to Shorten the Distance

The extent of shortening this gap varies among artists. A popular method involves applying the golden ratio, suggesting a reduction of about 38.2%. Despite seeming substantial, many experienced artists find this proportion effective. It's worth noting that while some fashion guidelines advocate for aligning the tear ducts and brow starts, the ultimate decision should be tailored to each client. Starting with the golden ratio as a reference point is a wise strategy, but adjustments should be made to suit individual facial features and preferences.

6. Creating Hairstrokes


Selecting the Right Pigment

Experienced artists often recommend using organic pigments for hairstrokes due to their reduced risk of blurring and superior results. For less experienced artists, mineral pigments are advisable. Even if the rest of the brow utilizes inorganic or hybrid pigments, many prefer organic pigments for hairstrokes. Regardless of the type, testing new pigments on the skin is vital to observe healing stages rather than relying solely on product labels.

Choosing the Appropriate Needle Size

While beginners might gravitate towards ultra-thin needles (0.18 or 0.20), seasoned artists often prefer a 1RL needle with a 0.25 thickness. This size balances creating clean lines and ensuring they remain visible after healing.

When it comes to creating hair strokes, one always has to consider skin penetrability. That is not solely dependent on the thickness of the skin, however, thicker skind does often have an epridermis with harder uppermost layer (stratum corneum). The tougher the epidermis is to penetrate, the larger the needle should be. Thus, in cases of harder and thicker skin, many artists suggest using the 1 RL 0.30 or even 1 RL 0.35 needle. One should always remember that the thickness of the hair stroke lines is not solely dependent on the needle diameter as it combines multiple factors, the technique being the most important of those.

Toughness and Slight Bending of the Needle

In the pursuit of crafting natural-looking hairstrokes, the stiffness of the needle plays a crucial role. Many artists prefer using cartridges with built-in tiny support bars. These bars help stabilize the needle's movement and prevent bending during the procedure.

An additional technique some artists employ is gently pressing the needle against a gloved finger, inducing a minimal bend. This subtle adjustment can significantly reduce vibration during the application, leading to steadier and crisper lines in hairstrokes.

Benefits of a Slightly Bent Needle

The slight bend in the needle can be a game-changer, especially for artists striving for precision and refinement in their hairstroke techniques. This small modification aids in achieving a higher level of control and consistency in the strokes, ultimately enhancing the overall quality of the brow work.

Sequence of Application

It's recommended to create hairstrokes before powdering. This sequence reduces risks and usually results in better healing outcomes. After outlining the brows, add the hairstrokes to the brow heads first, followed by powdering.

Avoiding Overcrowded Patterns

Beginners should avoid densely packed hair strokes, which can lead to blurry lines upon healing. It's better to add extra lines during a retouch session, about 6-8 weeks post-procedure, allowing time to assess how the pigment settles in the skin.

Natural Asymmetry Over “Exact Mirror Image”

Contrary to some training that suggests striving for mirrored patterns, experienced artists recognize and embrace the natural differences between brows. They understand that each brow is unique, similar to fingerprints. This means focusing on achieving natural-looking patterns rather than exact symmetry.

Accounting for Powdering Intensity

When combining hairstrokes with powdering, remember that powdering adds intensity to the strokes. Artists should start with hairstrokes one shade lighter than the target shade. The subsequent application of a light powder layer is often sufficient, and additional darkening is unnecessary. This approach prevents the strokes from becoming too dark or spreading.

7. Conclusions


Hairstrokes and Powder Brows

Artists specializing in Powder Brows should not view the integration of Hairstrokes or the creation of Combo Brows as overly complex techniques necessitating extensive training. Often, the enhancement of brows, especially at the head section, can be achieved by simply adding a few well-placed lines. This approach transforms the Powder Brows into Combo Brows, with Hairstrokes adding depth and naturalness. The specific terminology used is less important than the artist's ability to add lines where needed judiciously.

Sparse or Overplucked Brows

The most common scenario for adding Hairstrokes arises when the hair at the beginning of the brow is sparse or overplucked, while other brow sections exhibit normal or dense hair growth. In such cases, Hairstrokes can effectively improve the brow's overall appearance.

Determining the Starting Line

Various methods exist for determining the ideal starting line for brows, but the artist's judgment often dictates the final decision. A general guideline is to ensure the distance between the starting lines of the brows is shorter than the gap between the inner corners of the eyes. If using the golden ratio method, aim for a distance that is 38.2% shorter.

Optimal Tools and Techniques

For creating Hairstrokes, it's recommended to use mineral (organic) pigments and a needle size that isn't excessively thin. Many professionals favor a 1RL needle with a 0.25 thickness. Avoid placing lines too close together to prevent the pigment from blurring. More lines can always be added during the retouch session. Strive for natural asymmetry rather than a perfect mirror image in the pattern, as slight differences can enhance the overall natural look.

Sequence and Shading Considerations

Hairstrokes should be created before proceeding with powdering. Start with a pigment shade one level lighter than the desired outcome to accommodate the added intensity from subsequent powdering.
 
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