How to choose your first pigmentation machine

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1. Background

This article is based on interviews with 37 experienced PMU (Permanent Makeup) artists specializing in powder brows and hairstrokes. Each artist has over four years of experience. The group includes 26 artists from various EU countries, eight from the UK, and three from the US. These professionals are distinguished as top earners in their respective regions. A notable point in their careers is that they began in semi-permanent makeup without an existing client base, building their practices from scratch.

The main goal of this article is to guide beginners in powder brows and haistrokes on choosing the right machine. The advice and insights provided here come directly from these skilled artists' real-world experiences and successes. This information offers practical and valuable guidance for newcomers to semi-permanent makeup.

2. Basic principles of choosing machine

Beginning artists often face confusion when selecting their first pigmentation machine, primarily due to how machine information is presented.

Understanding the Bias in Machine Information

Many resources like listicles and comparison videos are influenced by affiliate programs, which can bias the information towards certain brands or models. These resources often reflect a manufacturer's advertising investment rather than the true quality of the machines. Artists need to approach such sources with skepticism.

The Reality of Sponsored Advertisements

Producers often secure higher rankings in lists through financial means, and trainers involved in affiliate programs may also recommend machines based on monetary incentives. Artists should be aware of these potential biases when receiving machine recommendations.

Navigating Smart Marketing Tactics

Sponsored presentations of machines often use manipulation tactics. Some artists may overraise a machine due to affiliate income, creating a narrative of discovering a transformative machine. While these endorsements may seem genuine, they are often influenced by sponsorship.

Being Cautious Before Making Large Investments

For starting artists, it's crucial to be cautious when investing in a PMU machine. More expensive machines might offer technical advantages, but higher prices don't always equate to better results. Artists should balance their investment in equipment with other important factors like pigmentation techniques, pigment selection, and needle cartridges.

Skills Over Equipment

The quality of work depends more on the artist's skills than the equipment. Even with a high-end machine, technique or pigment choice mistakes can significantly impact the results.

Branding and Client Perception

Clients typically don't know or care about the machine used for their treatment. Their main concern is the result. Focusing too much on showcasing equipment might not attract more clients.

Prudent Investment Strategies

For beginners, it's wise to start with a more affordable machine and upgrade as income from procedures increases. Seasoned artists recommend generating income before investing heavily in equipment, as even high-end machines don't guarantee better results or more clients.

In summary, artists starting in powder brows and hairstrokes should focus on developing their skills and understanding the business side of their practice before investing in expensive equipment. Considering both skill and equipment, a holistic approach is essential for success in semi-permanent makeup.

3. How to select a beginner machine

When selecting a beginner pigmentation machine, it's crucial to consider the following five criteria: stroke height, weight, compatibility with cartridges, power, and price. Each aspect is vital to the machine's overall performance and suitability for an artist's needs.

Stroke Height. The stroke height of a machine determines the depth and precision of the pigment insertion into the skin. A machine with adjustable stroke height is preferable, allowing versatility in various pigmentation techniques.

Weight. The machine's weight is crucial for the artist's comfort and control during long procedures.
Compatibility with All Cartridges. A machine compatible with a wide range of cartridges offers greater flexibility.
Power. The machine's power affects its pigment application efficiency, and you have to have enough powder.
Price. It's advisable to find a balance between quality and affordability.

4. Stroke height

When choosing a first pigmentation machine, it's vital to understand stroke height, especially for lower-end PMU machines that typically feature a fixed stroke height. The stroke height is essentially the range of movement of the needle within the machine, dictated by the stroke wheel.

Typical Stroke Heights and Their Classifications

Short Stroke. Machines with a stroke height of 1.8-2.5mm are classified as having a short stroke. These machines have a quicker needle movement and are suitable for specific techniques requiring more precision and less depth.
Medium Stroke. A stroke height of 3.0-3.5mm is considered medium. This range is versatile and can accommodate a variety of procedures, making it ideal for beginners.
Long Stroke. Machines with a stroke height of 4mm and above fall into the long stroke category. These machines deliver a stronger impact, suitable for procedures requiring deeper pigment insertion.

How Stroke Height Affects Performance

The stroke height determines the distance the needle moves during a cycle. A longer stroke height means the needle impacts the skin more forcefully. For example, a 3mm stroke height indicates that the needle moves 1.5mm up and 1.5mm down in one cycle, providing a stronger punch.

Machines with a smaller stroke wheel have quicker needle movement, resulting in more strokes per minute. However, the force of the needle's impact is as important as speed for effective pigmentation.

Recommended Stroke Height for Beginners

A medium stroke height of approximately 3mm is generally recommended for starting artists. This versatile stroke height supports various procedures, including powder brows, hairstrokes, eyeliner, and lip techniques. While a shorter stroke is necessary for certain techniques, such as lipstick-style lips, a medium stroke machine can handle most procedures effectively, making it a suitable choice for beginners.

In summary, when selecting their first PMU machine, beginners should look for a model with a medium stroke height of around 3mm. This stroke height balances speed and impact strength, making it suitable for a wide range of semi-permanent makeup procedures.

5. Weight

The weight of a pigmentation machine is a crucial factor, especially for artists at the beginning of their careers. It influences the ease of handling and overall comfort during procedures. Here's a breakdown of the key aspects:

Advantages of a Lighter Machine

Comfort for Artists with Smaller Hands or Lighter Hand Movements. A lighter machine can be more manageable and less tiring, especially for artists with smaller hands or those who prefer lighter hand movements. This is particularly beneficial during long sessions.

For artists still honing their technique and stamina, a lighter machine can be easier to handle, allowing them to focus on the intricacies of the procedure without the added strain of managing a heavier tool.

Wireless Machines and Weight Considerations

Increased Maneuverability. Wireless machines offer greater freedom of movement, which benefits artists in the learning phase. They allow for more versatile hand positions and movements without the constraints of a cord. The absence of cables simplifies the workspace and can reduce the risk of contamination, contributing to a cleaner, more organized work environment.

Battery Life and Management

Be Cautious with Battery Life Claims. Some wireless machines, particularly those manufactured in Asia, might not live up to their advertised battery life. It's important to be aware of this possibility.

Having a Spare Battery. To avoid interruptions during procedures, it's advisable to have a spare battery. This preparation ensures continuous operation and is a practical solution to battery life issues.

In conclusion, when selecting your first pigmentation machine, consider the weight and how it fits with your physical comfort and procedural style. For wireless machines, be proactive about battery management to ensure uninterrupted work. These considerations are vital for a more comfortable and efficient experience for the artist and the client.

6. Cartridge Compatibility

When choosing your first pigmentation machine, one of the key considerations is its compatibility with various cartridge types. Here's a breakdown of the main points to consider.

Importance of Cartridge Compatibility

Check for Universal Compatibility: Ensure the machine is compatible with standard cartridge types. This flexibility is crucial, as some high-end and lower-end machines may only accept specific brands or types of cartridges.

Restrictions by Some Manufacturers. Be aware that certain machine manufacturers design their handpieces to work exclusively with their own brand's cartridges or those from selected manufacturers. This practice can limit your options and necessitate purchasing more expensive, proprietary cartridges.

Using High-Quality Cartridges

Quality Over Brand. Even if you opt for a more budget-friendly machine, using high-quality cartridges is important. The quality of the cartridges can significantly impact the results of your work.

Do Not Compromise on Cartridge Quality. Investing in the best cartridges you can afford, even with a lower-priced machine, is crucial. High-quality cartridges can enhance the overall effectiveness of your procedures, contributing to better outcomes and client satisfaction.

Thus, when selecting your first machine, prioritize one that offers compatibility with a wide range of high-quality cartridges. This ensures you can use the best cartridges available, enhancing your work quality regardless of the machine's cost.

7. Power

When choosing a pigmentation machine, the power output is essential, especially its stroke height. It's not enough for a machine to have the right stroke height, like 3.0mm; it also needs a power unit capable of delivering enough force for effective pigmentation.

Power Units and Handpieces

Machines with a handpiece connected to an external power unit usually offer more flexibility and control. Artists can adjust the voltage settings, ranging between 4.8 to 5.0 volts, to suit different procedures. This setup generally provides more consistent power delivery and is preferred by many professionals.

Wireless Machines and Built-in Power Units

Lower-end wireless machines with built-in power units present certain challenges. Their speed settings, typically visible on the top part, may not fully reflect the machine's power capabilities. A frequent issue with these models is their inability to provide a consistently strong "punch," particularly true for less expensive versions that may lack the necessary power for precise and effective work.

Machine Specifications

Unfortunately, machine specifications don't always clearly indicate the true power output. They often list the speed - the number of needle movements per minute - but this doesn't equate to the needle's strength or consistency.

Conducting Preliminary Research

It's recommended to conduct comprehensive research before choosing a specific machine, particularly for wireless, lower-end models. This research can involve seeking reviews from other artists who have used the machine or consulting detailed technical reviews that evaluate the machine’s performance in various scenarios.

In summary, while stroke height is a vital factor, the power output of a machine is equally important. Ensure the machine you choose is powerful enough for the procedures you plan to perform. This is especially critical for artists considering wireless machines with built-in power units.

8. Price aspect

When selecting your first pigmentation machine, pricing is a crucial factor. Avoiding the cheapest options is wise as they often offer limited quality, leading to poor performance and durability issues.

Navigating Price Variability

The same machines can be repackaged and sold under different brands at varying prices, particularly online retail platforms. This practice is a marketing strategy where price differences are justified by superficial branding changes rather than actual improvements in quality or functionality.

Determining a Reasonable Price Range

For beginners, a sensible price range is between USD 100-200. In this price bracket, you can typically find stable, lightweight, and wireless machines. They offer a balance of functionality and ease of use and usually support a variety of cartridges, providing versatility for your initial practice.

Practicality for Beginners

A machine within this price range is practical for beginners. It allows you to perform initial procedures effectively without significant financial commitment. This is especially suitable for artists developing their skills and are not ready to invest in more advanced equipment.

Future Considerations

As your experience and business grow, your equipment needs may evolve. Investing in a more advanced machine may become feasible, offering features like greater precision and enhanced durability. These features can be beneficial as you broaden your range of services and client base.

Pre-owned machines

Many starting artists have been hesitant regarding buying a pre-owned high end machine. The experience of the seasoned artists participating in this research is clear. It can be a very good idea. There are far fewer cases reported where there have been problems with pre-owned machines compared to cases where it has worked out exceptionally well. Many artists have multiple machines, and the actual use of some machines is very low purely for personal preference-related reasons. Similarly, there have been many cases where the pre-owned machine is practically unused. In summary, starting artists should always look for great pre-owned machine deals on forums, groups, and marketplaces.

Therefore choosing the right machine involves finding the best match for your current skills and budget. It's about making a strategic investment that aids your growth as a semi-permanent makeup artist, considering that your equipment needs might change with time. Seasoned artists often advise purchasing a more expensive machine after your procedures have paid for the initial investment.

9. Conclusions

For beginners in the powder brows, hair strokes, and pigmentation industry, it's important to understand that success isn't solely dependent on owning an expensive, high-end pigmentation machine. This misconception, often amplified by promotional content from machine manufacturers and sponsored videos, overlooks the holistic approach required in semi-permanent makeup (PMU).

Adopting a Holistic PMU Approach

A holistic PMU perspective encompasses various aspects, including chemistry, physics, biology, and psychology. In this framework, the machine is just one element among others. It's essential but no more crucial than other factors like:

Choosing the right pigment (chemistry).
Understanding skin oiliness (biology).
Selecting suitable colors (chemistry and physics).

Employing appropriate pigmentation techniques, speeds, and needle cartridges (physics).

The belief that a high-end machine directly correlates with increased client bookings is often exaggerated.

Selecting a Starter Machine

When choosing your first machine, balancing cost with quality is crucial. Machines in the lower price range can still produce excellent results. Key criteria to consider include the following.

Stroke Height. A medium stroke height of 3mm is versatile for various procedures.
Weight. Lighter machines are easier to handle and reduce hand fatigue.
Cartridge Compatibility. The machine should be compatible with universal cartridge types.
Power. Ensure the machine has sufficient power for consistent and effective work.
Price Range. A budget of USD 100-200 is reasonable for beginners.

Evolving Equipment Needs

Experienced artists often recommend starting with a more affordable machine and upgrading equipment as your business grows. This approach allows you to use your initial earnings for future investments in better machinery.

Success in the powder brows and hairstrokes business combines various factors, and the machine is just one part of this equation. It's vital not to fall into the misconception that the machine alone is key to a thriving business. Focus on developing your skills across all aspects of PMU and invest in equipment that matches your current expertise and budget.