Favorites Videos
Articles
Pricing  
Sign in Register for free!
Sign in Register
CLOSE


Brow techniques and styles explained

Feb 07, 2024, Update: Feb 07, 2024, author: Hairstrokes.com / Holistic PMU
Share this article
1

"The terms related to key techniques in semi-permanent makeup, such as microblading, powder brows, and hairstrokes, often lead to confusion. This confusion isn't limited to clients; even experienced artists and major websites sometimes struggle with the terminology. Terms like "ombre powder brows," "soft ombre," "nano brows," and "nanoblading" are used frequently. While some of these terms have well-defined meanings, others are less clear. This article aims to demystify these terms, offering a clear explanation of each technique to enhance understanding."

1. Background


This article is based on information gathered from interviews with 56 pigmentation artists. Each artist has at least three years of experience. Among these professionals, 44 are from the EU, 8 from the UK, and 4 from the US. The research projects they participated in were conducted from 2019 to 2023. They primarily focused on client preferences. This included questions about various techniques and styles. Many of these research projects are still ongoing.

Goal of the Article

This article aims to assist readers in differentiating between various terms used in the field. It also seeks to understand each term's technical means and supplies. Additionally, we aim to clarify what clients can expect from the procedures related to these terms. We also aim to inform you about the current trending status of these techniques and styles.

2. Microblading: A timeless classic


Microblading is a fundamental technique for creating semi-permanent pigmentation. It has surged in popularity in Europe and subsequently worldwide since 2014. Traditionally, microblading is performed manually. This is done using a disposable tool equipped with a fixed blade or one to which a disposable blade can be attached.

Microblading Method

Typically, a microblading blade can have anywhere from 7 to 21 needles. Variations depend on the desired effect and the specific technique being used. The most common configurations are 12 and 14 needles.

These needles are notably fine, usually ranging from 0.15mm to 0.25mm in diameter. This is to replicate the appearance of natural brow hairs closely. The sizes most commonly used are between 0.18mm and 0.20mm. They offer a balance of precision and comfort. These fine diameters create crisp, thin lines that resemble natural hair strokes.

The artist cuts the dermis layer with the blade and infuses pigment particles into the resulting wounds. Ideally, some of the pigment is deposited in the upper layer of the dermis, known as the papillary dermis. Assertions that pigment is implanted "between" the dermis and epidermis, into the "basal layer of the epidermis," or into some elusive "sweet spot" are, from a dermatological perspective, unfounded.

The Positive Aspects of Microblading

The foremost advantage of microblading is its cost-effectiveness and swift completion time. Moreover, when performed on dry skin by a skilled artist, it is possible to create strokes that endure beyond the touch-up. While not all strokes may remain visible or as sharp as initially applied, they generally do not blur completely. However, for individuals with oily or thick skin, the expectation of seeing crisp microblading lines clearly after the first retouch, typically about one and a half to two months post-procedure, is often unrealistic.

Microblading has experienced rapid growth as a technique in the pigmentation industry for several years. However, depending on the region, its expansion has started decelerating between 2020 and 2022, and demand has begun to wane. It resembles a colossal Titanic sinking in slow motion, where numerous parties can be enjoyed aboard the ship before its eventual descent.

The Problems with Microblading

The primary issue with microblading arises from a single source: the inability to maintain the crispness of the initial lines due to the traumatization of the skin structure within the dermis. Let's delve into this in more detail.

Microblading involves creating fine incisions in the skin to implant pigment, typically in the superficial layer of the dermis, known as the papillary dermis. The dermis is a delicate layer containing nerve endings, sweat glands, hair follicles, and collagen and elastin fibers. When a microblading blade creates a linear cut, it disrupts the arrangement of collagen in the dermis. Collagen is vital for providing strength and elasticity to the skin. Its disruption triggers a wound-healing response.

During this healing process, fibroblasts generate new collagen fibers. However, this new collagen usually arranges itself more randomly than the original, structured collagen. This disarray can lead to scar tissue formation, which may not share the same texture or flexibility as the adjacent skin. It's important to note that other pigmentation techniques, such as those using a pigmentation machine, also cause skin traumatization; all methods do. Nonetheless, each technique has specific consequences, and with microblading, there is a significant likelihood of micro-scarring. Over time, possibly after 2-3 retouches, this scarring can make it impossible to deposit pigment in the exact location effectively.

The best way to comprehend this is by comparing the linear incision from microblading to the puncture damage caused by a single needle from a pigmentation machine.

Linear Incision vs. Puncture

Microblading involves creating a linear incision, which disrupts a larger skin area than a puncture from a single pigmentation needle. The potential for more scarring with microblading arises from several factors.

  • Extent of Injury. A linear incision affects a broader dermis area, amplifying the inflammatory response and the potential for noticeable scar tissue formation.
  • Healing Process. More extensive wounds take longer and may not heal as neatly as minor puncture wounds, leading to more apparent scars.
  • Repetitive Trauma. Microblading often entails multiple strokes nearby, exacerbating the trauma to the affected area.

The Impossibility of Achieving a Perpetual Retouching Cycle (PRC)

Repeated microblading procedures, based on the experience of the artist involved in the research, cause permanent changes in the collagen structure of the dermis. Each session introduces new trauma to the skin, triggering the wound-healing process anew. Over time, this can result in the following.

  • Collagen Densification. The newly formed collagen might be denser and more fibrous than the original, contributing to a stiffer skin texture.
  • Disruption of Normal Skin Architecture. Repeated trauma can permanently alter the typical arrangement of skin components, leading to visible changes in skin texture and elasticity.
  • Potential for Keloid Formation. In individuals predisposed to keloids, repetitive injury can lead to the development of these overgrowths of scar tissue that extend beyond the original wound.
  • Some Elastin Damage. Elastin fibers, crucial for skin elasticity, may be damaged, reducing skin suppleness.

Therefore, attempting to maintain a perpetual retouching cycle with microblading carries risks of scarring and permanent structural changes. The extent of these changes can vary based on individual healing processes, technique, pressure, and the skin's condition.

3. Nanoblading - A Vague Term


"Nanoblading" is considered a fundamentally meaningless term. There is widespread consensus among experts that "nanoblading" does not exist.

Understanding the Term “Nano”

The term "nano" originates from the Greek word "nanos," meaning "dwarf." Scientifically, it represents a factor of 10^-9, or one-billionth. Thus, one nanometer (nm) is one billionth of a meter. This measurement is crucial in nanotechnology, where materials are studied and manipulated at the atomic or molecular level.

In biology and medicine, "nano" often pertains to particles or materials in the 1 to 100 nanometers range. Materials exhibit unique properties at this scale due to quantum effects and a large surface area-to-volume ratio. These characteristics are utilized in various applications, including targeted drug delivery and diagnostics.

In the realm of semi-permanent makeup, applying this classification would imply needles with a diameter of 0.0001 mm. Considering the thickest needle visible to the naked eye is 0.1 mm, such needles are non-existent. Often, "nano" is used by producers to market their finest needles despite the lack of actual nanometer-scale precision.

Application of "Nano" in Semi-Permanent Makeup

In semi-permanent makeup, "nano" typically refers to needles around 0.18 mm in diameter, equating to 180,000 nanometers - vastly more significant than the scientific nano-scale.

Key considerations include the following


  • Marketing Over Precision. "Nano" is often more about marketing allure than scientific accuracy. It suggests a level of precision that doesn't match the scale in question. This usage of "nano" varies widely among manufacturers and practitioners, primarily targeting those unaware of the scientific implications.
  • No Definite Categorization. The cosmetic industry has no standardized definition for "nano" needles. This ambiguity allows for a broad and subjective application of the term.
  • Perceived Precision. "Nano" implies ultra-fineness and precision, appealing to clients desiring natural, detailed work. While a 0.18 mm needle is fine and allows for precise work, it's not on the nanometer scale.

Therefore, while "nano" has a precise meaning in scientific contexts, its application in semi-permanent makeup is a marketing tactic. The term aims to convey the needles' fineness and precision but doesn't reflect the true nano-scale. Practitioners and clients should focus on the actual specifications and capabilities of the tools rather than the terminology used to market them. All typical microblading blades could be labeled "nano blades," but there's no substantive difference between "nanoblading" and "microblading." The term "nanoblading" is, in essence, devoid of meaning.

4. Powder Brows - Base Tehcnique


Powder brows stand alongside microblading as a fundamental technique in semi-permanent makeup. Typically executed with a digital machine, this method involves penetrating the skin with a needle to insert pigment into the upper dermis (papillary dermis). This creates a gradient of color that generally begins lighter at the brow's head and upper portion, gradually darkening towards the tail. The needle vibrates gently and rapidly, employing a dotting or pixelization technique that layers color to achieve a filled-in appearance. The result is a more "made-up" look, offering a distinct contrast to the natural hair-like strokes of microblading.

Despite the name "powder" brows, which derives from the soft, powdery effect resembling brow powder, the term can broadly apply to any pigmented brows that exhibit a similar powdery finish.

Powdering - The Predominant Pigmentation Method

Most pigmented brows are called powder brows because there are limited methods to fill in the brow effectively. Theoretically, one could "tattoo" the brows to create a solid fill, but this technique hasn't been famous or influential for over a decade. Seasoned artists recount a significant shift towards "powdering" using a machine as early as 2007-2009, varying by location. Since this transition, there has been little reason to revert to any full brow "filling" without incorporating some gradient. This evolution underscores the predominance and viability of powdering as the preferred method for brow pigmentation.

Positive Aspects of Powder Brows

The most significant advantage of powder brows is their adaptability to virtually all skin types, yielding consistent results. When the proper pigment is used and the technique is applied correctly, even individuals with oily and thick skin can successfully receive powder brows. Although the "pixels" that many artists aim for may fade on oily and thick skin, the final "healed" appearance typically remains closer to the post-procedure look than, for example, microblading on oily skin.

Another positive aspect of powder brows is their durability when created correctly. Some artists suggest that powder brows can last up to three years, though this claim lacks substantial empirical support. With modern, mainly mineral and inorganic pigments, powdering typically lasts about a year, which is reasonably satisfactory. It's possible to market them as lasting anywhere from 1 to 3 years. Still, most experienced artists rarely see powdering that hasn't faded significantly within 24 months, mainly when using pigments designed for semi-permanent pigmentation.

The Problems with Powder Brows

The term "powder brows" is too broad to associate with significant, specific problems. It's similar to asking about the inherent issues with cars in general. Perhaps the only notable limitation of powder brows is that they do not replicate the natural hair structure, which some might view as making the technique somewhat "less creative.”

Introducing Creativity - American and European Approach

Many professional artists have developed various versions of the technique to introduce more creativity into powder brows. The American approach, characterized by a gradient that starts lighter at the brow's head and progressively darkens toward the tail, has gained global prominence. This style often features a sharply defined lower arch and a more defined upper arch, resulting in a bold look.

In contrast, the European approach typically involves a softer gradient at the brow's head and a gentler upper part, with pixels gradually fading into the skin without a defined upper arch border. Over time, this method has evolved to favor somewhat straighter lower arch lines and bolder, more prominent brows. There's a trend toward powder brows with a bolder, larger shape and softer, pixelated filling, reflecting a preference for a more natural, blended look. A development of this approach led to adding more prefixes, ending up with the terms “soft powder brows” and “soft ombre brows” (additionally: soft ombre and soft brows).

5. Combo Brows - Many versions


The concept of Combo Brows emerged significantly as powder brow artists sought to integrate microblading techniques to stay competitive in the dynamic pigmentation industry. It's crucial to understand that "Combo Brows" doesn't merely denote a mixture of microblading and powder brows; it represents a broader spectrum, incorporating various pigmentation techniques.

Combo Brows have been pivotal in overcoming microblading's limitations, especially concerning retention on thick and oily skin types. By adding more pigment with a machine technique, artists could enhance the durability of the results. This method also helped address the blurring often seen with microblading, as it allowed for using less dense patterns. By marrying the precision of microblading lines with the gentle, diffused appearance of powder applied by the machine, Combo Brows offers a versatile and enduring outcome.

Moreover, this technique enables artists to craft brows embody a balanced, natural "make-up" look, merging the sharp definition of microblading with powder brows's comprehensive, shaded effect. This versatility has made Combo Brows a favored option among clients who desire a holistic solution that accommodates a range of skin types and aesthetic preferences.

Ombre Brows - A Subcategory of Powder Brows

6. Hairstrokes - A Trending Technique


The term "hairstrokes" is sometimes utilized in contexts that are not entirely accurate. Let's delve into its actual meaning. Broadly speaking, "hairstrokes" refers to fine lines or markings that simulate the appearance of natural hair. This term is prevalent in various artistic realms, such as drawing, painting, and digital graphics, where the objective is to produce lifelike, hair-like strokes. These strokes can differ in thickness, length, and curvature to mirror the natural diversity found in human or animal hair.

Hairstrokes in Semi-Permanent Pigmentation

In semi-permanent pigmentation, especially within the beauty and cosmetic industry, "hairstrokes" originally denoted any technique resembling hair-like pigmentation, contrasting with full brow tattooing or powder brows. Around the time microblading emerged in 2014, many artists described microblading as "hairstrokes made with a blade" or used the term for hairline style lines crafted with a pigmentation machine.

However, over the years, the term "Hairstrokes" has evolved to specifically denote brow hair patterns created with a pigmentation machine, typically using a single needle and occasionally other needle configurations. This distinction reflects the technique's focus on replicating individual brow hairs for a natural, refined appearance.

Hairstrokes and Powder Brows

Referring to hairstrokes as a variant of powder brows is somewhat misleading. However, they share a significant commonality: both techniques typically utilize a pigmentation machine and often employ a needle cartridge (though hairstrokes may occasionally be done with a nozzle needle). This means that proficiency with a pigmentation machine is crucial for creating hairstrokes.

However, artists specializing in hairstrokes and many leading powder brow practitioners concur that hairstrokes are more nuanced and complex than traditional powder brows or any derivative where the brow is filled with powdering. Specifically, hairstrokes is a technique that involves crafting a complex pattern of various stroke elements with the machine, utilizing a combination of lines and shading styles. This distinction underscores the intricate nature and artistic finesse required for executing hairstrokes effectively.

Three Generations of Hairstrokes

Seasoned artists often describe the evolution of hairstrokes through three distinct stages or eras: fence design, hyperrealism, and modern hairstrokes. Initially, with the rise and spread of powder brows, the first era of hairstrokes emerged. Sometimes called the "fences pattern" or "fence design," this style predominantly consisted of nearly vertical parallel lines crudely added to powder brows to simulate natural hair. By today's standards, this method offers a subpar quality of brows.

The second era of Hairstrokes was marked by an influx of new artists with exceptional artistic skills, often utilized to create brows that mimicked natural hair with remarkable accuracy. This period is known for focusing on hyperrealistic brows, resembling overgrown natural brows. However, due to the intense realism, only a fraction of clients were bold enough to opt for this style.

The third and likely final phase of hairstroke's evolution began around 2023. It was significantly influenced by numerous microblading artists migrating to hairstrokes, recognizing the oversaturation of the microblading market and the unfeasibility of a perpetual retouching cycle with microblading. These artists brought commercial savvy to the technique, shifting away from the aim of hyperrealistic, overgrown brows to a bold and groomed appearance. They introduced various commercially viable and slightly modified patterns that balanced looking natural and appealing to a broad customer base. This shift underscores the most substantial connection and influence between hairstrokes and microblading, marking a new era in semi-permanent eyebrow techniques.

The Positive Aspects of Hairstrokes

The "third generation" of Hairstrokes is praised for combining the best elements of both worlds: the natural look akin to microblading and the retention qualities of powder brows. This combination gives Hairstrokes a significant technical advantage over microblading in retention.

The "Natural" and "Artistic" Factor

Empirical research has highlighted another critical strength of Hairstrokes: their lasting nature. While powder brow artists might justify turning away clients' requests for patterns by rightly pointing out unsuitable skin characteristics like oiliness and pore size that would lead to blurred lines in microblading, this explanation doesn't hold when comparing powder brows with Hairstrokes. Indeed, some clients may have a fixed preference for either "pattern" or "powder." While both are generally achievable with fresh, healed, and perpetual retouching cycle images of different techniques, many clients intuitively opt for the third generation of Hairstrokes over other methods. This preference has been substantiated in two studies conducted in 2023. Although research is ongoing, this trend is pronounced and should prompt reflection among microblading and powder brows artists.

Negative Aspects of Hairstrokes

The negative aspects of Hairstrokes are primarily centered around three significant challenges. Firstly, the learning curve is notably steep. Aspiring artists must not only possess technical skills associated with powder brows and an understanding of patterns akin to microblading, but they must also acquire an entirely new set of skills. These include selecting the correct pattern, creating a complex structure of loose regions within the brows, connecting these regions, generating gradient lines, and mastering horizontal shadowing. To execute Hairstrokes professionally, there's a substantial amount to learn.

Secondly, the success of Hairstrokes heavily relies on the artist's ability to select and modify the pattern to align with the natural hair's structure and growth direction. Sometimes, the inherent shape, length, and curvature of the client's natural brow hair can make it challenging to achieve great results with Hairstrokes, a problem less commonly encountered with powder brows.

Lastly, the Hairstrokes procedure itself is more demanding to perform. While seasoned artists might transition to an "auto-pilot" mode when creating microblading or powder brows, this isn't typically feasible with Hairstrokes. The artist must continuously pay close attention, incorporating client-specific details throughout the procedure. This requirement makes the process more time-consuming and energy-intensive than other techniques, demanding more focus and precision from the practitioner.

7. Nanobrows - Another non-sequitur


Similar to "nanoblading," the term "nano" in "nanobrows" doesn't introduce a distinct differentiation in terminology. There is no clear, universally accepted criterion to distinguish "nano brows type of hairstrokes" from standard "hairstrokes," challenging the notion of "nano brows" as a separate subcategory. This makes "nano brows" as a term another "empty" so-called non-sequitur because it represents something nebulous that does not inherently follow from the actual meaning of "nano", and thus can be given a random amount of meanings based on the individual perception of the person using the term.

The issue stems from the inherent "emptiness" of the term "nano" in the context of semi-permanent pigmentation. Producers may label their thinner needle lines as "nano" for marketing purposes without standardization. As previously discussed, many producers and artists have adopted this term to enhance the marketability of their products and services.

Artists using the term "nano brows" generally aim to imply that the hairstrokes are exceptionally thin and refined. However, from a cellular biology and dermatological perspective, the thickness of hairstroke lines isn't solely determined by the needle's diameter. Instead, a multi-variable analysis is necessary, considering factors such as needle diameter, needle taper, machine speed, stroke height, epidermal thickness (particularly the Stratum Corneum), skin consistency and maturity, and the hydrocarbon consistency of pigments, among others.

Therefore, "nano brows" doesn't signify a unique style of hairstrokes. Furthermore, given the lack of a universally definable meaning for "nano" in pigmentation and the absence of consensus among artists, terms related to it can be confusing. PMU Hub, for instance, describes microblading (traditionally done with a hand-held tool) and machine-created hairstrokes (termed nano brows or nanoblading) in a manner that suggests they are similar. This creates confusion, as equating techniques performed with a blade (nanoblading) with those performed with a pigmentation machine (nano brows) is incorrect. More often, "nano brows" refers to hairstrokes created with a thin needle and a pigmentation machine, highlighting the importance of understanding the nuances and distinctions between these techniques.

8. Conclusions


In the semi-permanent pigmentation realm, microblading has been a prominent style. It offers clients a "natural hair pattern," is relatively easy and cost-effective for the artist, and often appears exceptionally natural immediately post-procedure. However, the issue with microblading is its lack of longevity; the sharp lines typically blur during healing, and it's ineffective on oily or thick skin. Despite the artist's skill, blurring over time is inevitable, even on dry skin, and the perpetual retouching cycle is unattainable. As such, microblading is viewed as a slowly declining technique akin to a sinking Titanic, primarily due to the inherent, unresolvable dermatological issues.

"Nanoblading" is an empty term often used for microblading with thinner needles. However, without a universal consensus on what qualifies as "nano blades," the term lacks logical substance.

Powder brows are a term that broadly encompasses most pigmented brows, given the contemporary absence of non-gradient techniques. A notable subset is ombre powder brows, which feature a lighter gradient at the front and sometimes a lighter-shaded upper arch. Powder brows' strength lies in their adaptability to various skin types and relatively good retention. However, the scope for radical innovation is limited. "Combo brows," a creative mix of microblading and powder brows, exemplify one such innovation. In the broader sense, powder brows are an enduring category, much like "cars" in the transportation sector, with different styles emerging and fading, but the category itself remains.

Hairstrokes, executed with a pigmentation machine, create patterns of hairlines, incorporating elements of microblading and powder brows. This technique has several advantages, including creating lasting, natural-looking patterns with minimal damage to the collagen network. Studies suggest that many customers prefer Hairstrokes over other methods when shown results from various stages of the procedure. The challenges with Hairstrokes include the steep learning curve, the need for bespoke adjustments based on natural hair characteristics, and the inability to perform the procedure on "auto-pilot" due to the attention to detail required.

"Nano brows" is often synonymous with Hairstrokes done with a single thin needle. However, the term is as nebulous as "nanoblading," given the lack of clear criteria for "nano" and the myriad factors influencing the width of hairstrokes beyond just needle diameter. Thus, "nano brows" is also essentially an "empty" term.

In conclusion, while each technique has its distinct advantages and challenges, the semi-permanent pigmentation industry continues to evolve, with artists and clients alike navigating through the myriad of options to find the best fit for individual needs and preferences.
 
 Similar articles  Similar videos
 
Find this interesting?
or
 
Comments
 
Sarah
Wednesday, Feb 07, 2024

This article clarified so many things for me. I totally love it and appreciate this open and clear approach.


Want to learn Hairstrokes?
Your name*
E-mail*


Hairstrokes.com is a Powderbrows.com LLC company. It serves as the premier resource for material related to Hairstrokes - the most natural technique for creating brow pigmentation. For collaboration opportunities, contact us here.
Powderbrows.com partner in Scandinavia: Brows.fi
Holistic PMU
Powderbrows.com
Hairstrokes.com
Lipblush.com
Combobrows.com
Everyoung.com




Company
About us
Contact us!
Terms of Service
Privacy Policy
User
Account
Log In
Register
Upgrade!
© 2024. Powderbrows.com LLC. 225 Park Avenue, NY, NY, 10003, USA. All rights reserved. Terms of Service and Privacy Policy   |    Sitemap
Do you want a similar private portal platform? Contact developer: stprivatdevserv@gmail.com