Advanced Approach to Brow Shape and Patterns

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1. Background

Mastering stroke patterns in microblading and hairstrokes can be daunting, especially for newcomers. In the early 2020s, executing complex, ideal shapes and stroke patterns was often seen as a mark of expertise. Many trainers and artists showcased their intricate designs as evidence of their skill, implying that these patterns and shapes were crucial for perfect brows. However, the industry has since shifted its focus, advocating a different approach to mastering these patterns.

To understand this change, we engaged with 32 leading microblading and hairstroke artists - 23 from the European Union, nine from the UK, and two from the US. Their collective techniques and approaches, actively used in their practice, provide valuable insights for both novice and seasoned artists.

The feedback from these experts suggests a more nuanced view of shapes and stroke patterns. The current trend in the industry is not just about complexity; it's about tailoring patterns to meet the specific needs of each client, prioritizing customization over standardization. This article explores these evolving techniques, offering practical advice for artists who want to enhance their microblading and hairstroke skills using a contemporary approach.

2. Different Approaches

Brow-Centric vs. Client-Centric Approaches

In the realm of microblading and hairstrokes, artists typically adopt one of two methods for creating brow patterns: the brow-centric approach or the client-centric approach. These methods reflect traditional and holistic philosophies in shaping and pattern design.

The Conventional Approach: Shape and Pattern Replication

The conventional approach focuses on accurately replicating a pre-defined shape and pattern. In this method, a specific pattern created by an expert acts as a template, including a set number of strokes and details. Artists using this technique strive to precisely duplicate this template on their client’s brows. Popular for years and still taught in various training programs, it emphasizes creating perfectly symmetrical brows, each a mirror image of the original meticulously executed pattern.

Implementing the Conventional Approach In this method, artists follow the predetermined pattern elements - initial, transition, upper, and lower lines - with precision. The pattern is directly applied to the client’s brow area. This approach can produce excellent results if the pattern naturally fits the client’s brow structure and facial features. However, deviations can lead to less satisfactory outcomes.

The Holistic Approach: Adapting to Individual Characteristics

The holistic or client-centric approach, on the other hand, prioritizes the unique features of each client’s brows over a standard pattern. This method involves identifying the “unique fingerprint” of the client’s brow area, recognizing the individuality in their facial features and hair growth patterns.

Delivering Shapes and Patterns Holistically

This approach does not aim for perfect symmetry but rather seeks to enhance the client's natural brow shape and structure. Artists adjust and tailor the pattern elements to match the client’s distinctive features, aiming for a result that looks natural and harmonious with the client’s overall facial aesthetics.

While the conventional approach emphasizes precision in replicating shapes and patterns, the holistic approach modifies these elements to suit each client's unique features. Understanding both methods is crucial for microblading and hairstrokes artists, enabling them to select the most appropriate approach for their client's needs and expectations.

3. Skull and Bone Structure

Integrating Bone Structure into Brow Design

In the holistic approach to microblading, hairstrokes, and brow design, considering more than just the brow as an isolated feature is crucial. A comprehensive analysis includes understanding the brow in relation to its surroundings, particularly the skull shape of the client. This involves three key aspects: softening the brow ridge, visually "shortening" the forehead, and considering the impact of the orbital bone on the eye spacing.

Brow Ridge: Balancing Facial Features

The brow ridge, located above the eye sockets, is vital for facial aesthetics. A pronounced brow ridge can give a more masculine appearance and create the illusion of deeper-set eyes. This is more evident compared to the flatter brow ridges often seen in Asian facial structures. A prominent brow ridge from the front may cast a shadow over the eyes.

In brow artistry, recognizing the natural contours of the brow ridge is important. Over-emphasizing a strong brow ridge with a bold brow start can unintentionally give a stern or severe appearance. To counteract this, artists can elevate the highest point and tail of the brow arch, lifting the eye area and softening the impact of a pronounced brow ridge.

Forehead Bone: Creating Harmonious Proportions

The forehead or frontal bone, stretching from the brow ridge to the hairline, affects facial proportions. For clients with a higher forehead, it's crucial to design a brow pattern that doesn't further elongate the forehead. The brow shape shouldn't be based on the client's hairstyle, as it's changeable.

An effective strategy to create the illusion of a shorter forehead is to design angular and thicker brows. Fuller brows with pronounced middle sections can visually balance a high forehead.

Orbital Bone: Guiding Brow Direction

The shape and prominence of the orbital bone, surrounding the eye socket, influence eye perception—whether they appear larger, smaller, deeper-set, or more prominent. For brow artists, the orbital bone is a crucial reference in determining the brow pattern's direction.

When the distance between the eye sockets is wider than one eye's width, applying the Golden Ratio can reduce the start of the brows' distance by about 30-40% (38.2% following the Golden Ratio). In such cases, the front lines of the brow pattern can be more distinct and longer.

Conversely, if the eyes are closer together, lacking the width of an eye between them, avoid emphasizing this proximity with long brow patterns that further reduce the brows' space. In these instances, the front lines should be softer and less defined for a more balanced appearance.

Thus, a holistic approach to brow design requires careful analysis of the client's bone structure, tailoring the brow pattern to complement their unique facial features. This method ensures the creation of brows that enhance the client's natural beauty and harmonize with their overall facial structure, forming a foundational aspect of the Holistic PMU approach. It provides artists with the insights needed to develop aesthetically pleasing patterns that resonate with each client's unique features.

Debunking the Myth of Randomness

For novice artists, creating the perfect brow pattern can seem daunting and almost random. However, precision and understanding are essential, despite the complexity of factors involved. Artistic freedom in brow creation requires mastery of fundamental principles of brow mapping and the nuances of microblading and hairstroke designs. The idea that patterns can be modified should never justify creating random patterns without a foundational design. Next, we will explore holistic approaches to pattern design.

4. First Key: Backbone Types

Versatility in Backbone Types

The contemporary, personalized approach to brow design does not adhere to predefined backbone types. Instead, artists use guiding principles to shape and position the backbone. The backbone's starting point should align with the natural direction of brow hair growth, typically at the upper arch's peak where hair starts to descend.

The backbone's endpoint allows for creativity and is determined by considering both the orbital bone's shape and the direction of hair growth. The distance between the start and end of the backbone is crucial—it influences the direction of the pattern lines. Shorter spans result in straighter, more vertical lines, whereas longer spans lead to softer, more horizontal lines. Ideally, the endpoint usually falls between the lower arch’s point 6 and endpoint 3.

Importantly, a backbone should not be linear and straight, even in vertical designs. The optimal shape resembles an elongated “S,” which significantly affects the pattern's natural appearance.

Individualized Backbone Shapes for Each Brow

It is often necessary for each brow to have a different backbone shape. While this may appear unconventional to traditional PMU practitioners, it is essential for achieving facial symmetry and aesthetic harmony. This approach recognizes that each brow is distinct and demands a customized approach, shifting from the one-size-fits-all mentality in brow artistry.

5. Second Key: Backbone

The backbone's role in shaping a brow pattern is crucial. It serves as the foundation for every other element of the brow, including the initial lines. This approach differs from traditional methods and is in line with the Holistic Permanent Makeup (PMU) philosophy, which focuses on the individuality of each person's “brow-print.”

The Backbone as the Guide for All Other Lines

In the Holistic PMU approach, creating a pattern doesn't begin with the brow's head, followed by the upper and lower lines. Instead, a skilled artist uses the backbone as a guide, considering its start, middle, and end points to determine the direction of the rest of the brow.

A common mistake among microblading and hairstrokes artists is a mismatch between the pattern lines and the backbone's direction. When lines in different areas of the brow—whether upper, lower, or initial lines—do not align harmoniously with the backbone's endpoint, the brow's natural appearance is affected.

The Endpoint of the Backbone: A Crucial Element

Experienced artists often emphasize a key principle for creating an almost perfect brow pattern: "Every line should naturally extend toward the backbone's endpoint." In practice, this means when drawing a line, the artist imagines its beginning at the actual start and its end at the backbone's endpoint. The line is drawn with this trajectory in mind, lifting the blade at the right moment to complete the line.

This principle is especially relevant for the upper lines. They should all naturally end at the backbone (unless they extend beyond the backbone's endpoint, in which case they should be directed towards the brow's end-point). However, it's not just the line's direction that matters but also how these lines intersect with the backbone. The angle at which they meet the backbone is crucial for the pattern's overall quality. Ideally, all angles should be designed so that if extended, the lines would converge at the backbone's endpoint.

6. Third Key: Pattern Density

Pattern Density of Hairstrokes: A Key to Professional Outcomes One of the main challenges in traditional microblading is managing pattern density. While artists often densely fill in lines based on a standard pattern, real-life applications typically require more subtle adjustments.

The Misconception About Pattern Failure

A common misconception is that unsuccessful pattern healing is primarily due to anatomical factors like skin type or oiliness. However, the issue often lies in setting overly ambitious density goals. The choice of practice material is crucial here. Synthetic materials like fake skin and latex are great for practicing dense patterns because of their durability and pigment absorption qualities, but human skin is different. It's softer, less efficient at absorbing pigment, and maintains a certain moisture level.

Understanding Skin Moisture and Adjusting Accordingly

Accurately assessing skin moisture is key. Some artists, including experienced professionals, use hydration patch tests or other methods to measure actual skin moisture (g/cm²). Simple touch, visual observation, or asking clients about their skin care routines can be inadequate. Therefore, relying on empirical data for moisture assessment is vital for planning pattern density.

Strategic Density Planning

With these factors in mind, many artists choose a lower initial density, even if they could achieve more. The logic is straightforward yet strategic: they prefer to see how the skin heals post-procedure before determining the final density. This cautious approach, along with the backbone strategies discussed earlier, is fundamental in creating a truly professional microblading or hairstrokes pattern.

Understanding and adapting to the unique properties of human skin, especially its moisture content and healing response, is crucial for setting the right pattern density. This method, grounded in empirical data and careful observation, allows artists to achieve pigmentation results that look natural and heal effectively.

7. Conclusions

Embracing the Holistic Approach

In traditional microblading and hairstrokes, the primary objective is often to create a "perfect pattern," where both brows are mirror images of each other. However, the Holistic PMU approach adopts a more nuanced perspective, recognizing and valuing each client's unique facial features and customizing brow patterns to enhance these individual characteristics.

A Focus on Anatomical Factors

In the Holistic PMU approach, critical anatomical elements like the brow ridge, forehead, and orbital bone play significant roles in shaping the brow pattern. These factors are essential in determining the pattern's intensity, its alignment with measured outlines, and the overall design of the backbone.

Key Criteria Distinguishing Holistic PMU

The holistic approach stands apart from traditional methods through several key criteria.

Individualized Backbone Shape

The Holistic PMU approach personalizes the backbone shape for each brow, recognizing variations even within the same individual, unlike traditional microblading or hairstrokes that often follow a one-size-fits-all mindset.  

Pattern Lines Guided by the Backbone

In this method, the endpoint of the backbone influences the direction of every line in the brow pattern, ensuring a cohesive and natural appearance.  

Skin-data-Driven Pattern Density

Professionals in Holistic PMU determine pattern density based on factual skin data and analysis, rather than just their technical ability. They frequently opt for lower density than what might be technically possible on synthetic materials like latex, focusing on better retention and healing. This careful approach is geared towards optimal healing and the longevity of the brow pattern.  

A Tailored Approach for Each Client

Therefore, Holistic PMU shifts away from the rigid techniques of traditional brow patterning. It emphasizes a customized approach, considering each individual's unique facial structure to create aesthetically pleasing and harmonious brow patterns. This method ensures that the results are as distinct as the clients themselves, embodying the spirit of personalized beauty in brow pigmentation.